New thread on polarizer filter for BlackVue DR500GW-HD

erewhon

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Dash Cam
BlackVue DR500GW-HD & DR650-1CH
The original thread is now quite long. The reasons for wanting a polarizing filter were well discussed in the original thread.

http://dashcamtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1241

Here is a possible solution that might warrant a new thread.

The original thread seemed to conclude that the CPL filter needed to be at least 30 mm to avoid vignetting (black border around the video image), due to the BlackVue wide-angle lens.

Here's a 36 mm filter that is super high quality (mine arrived just today).

61K2VFjWjGL._SL1000_.jpg


Available at Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Carry-Speed-MagFilter-perfect-Canon/dp/B0093YC6ME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377396662&sr=1-1&keywords=Carry+Speed+MagFilter+36mm+CPL

A nice video of the filter is at: http://oliviatech.com/magfilter-the-magnetic-circular-polarizing-filter-for-point-and-shoot-cameras

I hand-held the filter on the BlackVue and verified that there is no vignetting. I rotated the filter and verified that it eliminated almost all reflections.

The adapter ring is 28 mm inside diameter and 32 mm outside diameter. (The filter attaches magnetically to the adapter ring.) So, how do you attach the adapter ring to the BlackVue?

I discovered eMachineShop at: http://www.emachineshop.com/

You can download CAD (Computer Assisted Design) software from them and design your own part. You then specify material, tolerances, other stuff, and then you can get an automated quote in seconds. Just one part is expensive, but price per part drops drastically for a dozen or so parts.

I designed this bracket to fit around the BlackVue lens projection. Notice the hole for the lens. This is a top view. The outside diameter is 32 mm for the filter adapter ring.
BV-Bracket-Top_zpsf2fc810e.jpg


Here is a bottom view, showing the curved surface to fit around the body of the BlackVue. You can also see the cut-off areas so that the bracket will not cover the security LED just below the BlackVue lens.
BV-Bracket-Bot_zpsd9fa5be2.jpg


I'm going to check all my measurements and the design dimensions, and order the bracket (in aluminum). I'm anticipating doing a bit of light sanding with fine grit sandpaper to custom fit it, followed by black spray paint. I'll use a bit of very thin Teflon tape around the BlackVue lens projection to get a snug press fit.
 
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erewhon said:
The original thread is now quite long. The reasons for wanting a polarizing filter were well discussed in the original thread.

http://dashcamtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1241

Here is a possible solution that might warrant a new thread.

The original thread seemed to conclude that the CPL filter needed to be at least 30 mm to avoid vignetting (black border around the video image), due to the BlackVue wide-angle lens.

Here's a 36 mm filter that is super high quality (mine arrived just today).

61K2VFjWjGL._SL1000_.jpg


Available at Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Carry-Speed-MagFilter-perfect-Canon/dp/B0093YC6ME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377396662&sr=1-1&keywords=Carry+Speed+MagFilter+36mm+CPL

A nice video of the filter is at: http://oliviatech.com/magfilter-the-magnetic-circular-polarizing-filter-for-point-and-shoot-cameras

I hand-held the filter on the BlackVue and verified that there is no vignetting. I rotated the filter and verified that it eliminated almost all reflections.

The adapter ring is 28 mm inside diameter and 32 mm outside diameter. (The filter attaches magnetically to the adapter ring.) So, how do you attach the adapter ring to the BlackVue?

I discovered eMachineShop at: http://www.emachineshop.com/

You can download CAD (Computer Assisted Design) software from them and design your own part. You then specify material, tolerances, other stuff, and then you can get an automated quote in seconds. Just one part is expensive, but price per part drops drastically for a dozen or so parts.

I designed this bracket to fit around the BlackVue lens projection. Notice the hole for the lens. This is a top view. The outside diameter is 32 mm for the filter adapter ring.
BV-Bracket-Top_zpsf2fc810e.jpg


Here is a bottom view, showing the curved surface to fit around the body of the BlackVue. You can also see the cut-off areas so that the bracket will not cover the security LED just below the BalckVue lens.
BV-Bracket-Bot_zpsd9fa5be2.jpg


I'm going to check all my measurements and the design dimensions, and order the bracket (in aluminum). I'm anticipating doing a bit of light sanding with fine grit sandpaper to custom fit it, followed by black spray paint. I'll use a bit of very thin Teflon tape around the BlackVue lens projection to get a snug press fit.


Might be sensible to get a quote for say 10 and get a group buy going Post prices when u have them Thanks
 
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Does this protrude from the existing lens, or ends up flush with it? If it protrudes, you would be better tapering the opening at the protrusion.
 
Hillbilly said:
Might be sensible to get a quote for say 10 and get a group buy going Post prices when u have them Thanks

I'll make sure the design works first, and then see what interest you all have in buying one. Basically, I pay to have some brackets made, and eMachineShop sells them, giving most of the profit to me. If nobody buys them, then I am stuck with the loss. I'll keep you posted.

If it works like I hope it will, it will be a very nice add-on to the BlackVue.
 
tonymy01 said:

Does this protrude from the existing lens, or ends up flush with it? If it protrudes, you would be better tapering the opening at the protrusion.

My goal is to have it flush. I am busy re-measuring and looking at the costs of economy 3D tolerances versus precision 3D tolerances at eMachineShop. At the worst case, I think I can hold the adapter ring surface to less than .3 mm above the lens.

I want to make sure that there is a lot of bearing surface to prevent wobble and to make a secure press fit.

I still need to more closely measure how far the filter has to be above the lens before vignetting happens, but it was around 2 mm in my initial measurements. Is your tapering suggestion to avoid vignetting? I think it will be OK, based on initial tests, but I will check again.

I appreciate all the questions and comments to help make this a good solution! :D
 
Yeah, essentially was suggesting that if that ring protruded much above the lens, it would be seen in the edges, and thus taper it out a bit to avoid it being seen by the lens edge (keeping same outer diameter). Does one of us own a 3d printer? You can proto with that before proper production.
 
tonymy01 said:

Does one of us own a 3d printer? You can proto with that before proper production.

Excellent suggestion! This forum has been most helpful.

The original machined aluminum part would be about $160 (US) for quantity of one.

An inexpensive 3D printer prototype could save me from an expensive design blunder.

So, I converted the proprietary eMachineShop CAD file to STL format and found a company in Canada (Proto3000) that can do the part (quantity one) for $30 (Canadian dollars, I assume, shipping and handling extra). They use a special resin and UV light, and the rendering is supposed to be very accurate.

Sounds good, but it gets better!

I found http://www.makexyz.com, which seems to be mainly hobbyists with 3D printers looking to be helpful. The website found someone in Tucker, Georgia (USA) within round-trip range of my electric car. He also works in resin, and claims a very smooth product with an accuracy of .025 mm. The cost will be under $8, not including shipping and handling. (Wow)

Both of the resin products look like they could be used as the final product, and not just as a prototype. Both will need painting (the finished products are clear or white). The resin is said to take paint well.

If it works, I can supply the STL file (standard input for 3D printing) to you folks.
 
erewhon said:
tonymy01 said:

Does one of us own a 3d printer? You can proto with that before proper production.

Excellent suggestion! This forum has been most helpful.

The original machined aluminum part would be about $160 (US) for quantity of one.

An inexpensive 3D printer prototype could save me from an expensive design blunder.

So, I converted the proprietary eMachineShop CAD file to STL format and found a company in Canada (Proto3000) that can do the part (quantity one) for $30 (Canadian dollars, I assume, shipping and handling extra). They use a special resin and UV light, and the rendering is supposed to be very accurate.

Sounds good, but it gets better!

I found http://www.makexyz.com, which seems to be mainly hobbyists with 3D printers looking to be helpful. The website found someone in Tucker, Georgia (USA) within round-trip range of my electric car. He also works in resin, and claims a very smooth product with an accuracy of .025 mm. The cost will be under $8, not including shipping and handling. (Wow)

Both of the resin products look like they could be used as the final product, and not just as a prototype. Both will need painting (the finished products are clear or white). The resin is said to take paint well.

If it works, I can supply the STL file (standard input for 3D printing) to you folks.

I'd be interested in looking at the files you created (if you don't mind sharing) not that I can use it myself but we're ordering a 3D printer today and just looking for some practical practice pieces to have a go at
 
jokiin said:

I'd be interested in looking at the files you created (if you don't mind sharing) not that I can use it myself but we're ordering a 3D printer today and just looking for some practical practice pieces to have a go at

Send me a PM (private message) with an email address, and I will send the STL file as an attachment. It is 177KB in size.

As you can see from the 3D rendering at the start of the thread, it is a very simple shape and will not be a challenge to print. However, the accuracy and tolerances will be important.

I will get the finished part tomorrow (3D printed using stereo-lithography) and see if it fits. Update in about 24 hours!
 
2014 should make for a VERY interesting year for 3D printing innovations / applications. The sky is the limit for mod's and one of a kind creations/enhancements!

"3D Printing Will Explode in 2014 When Key Patents Expire"
http://mashable.com/2013/07/22/3d-printing-patents/
 
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JazJon said:
2014 should make for a VERY interesting year for 3D printing innovations / applications. The sky is the limit for mod's and one of a kind creations/enhancements!

"3D Printing Will Explode in 2014 When Key Patents Expire"
http://mashable.com/2013/07/22/3d-printing-patents/

the market is definitely changing, no doubt about that
 
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That looks awesome!!
 
Very impressive, It looks like a factory grade accessory!
I'm looking forward to the day when 3D printing enhancements is common place for anything and everything we want.
 
This thread inspired me to create a polarizer filter ring for my Mini 0801 Ambarella. (the lends ring would need to fit around 15mm) The lens on page one looks too big, not sure how you cut it smaller

I just created a new DIY thread:
Polarizing Filter to Reduce Windshield Dashboard Reflections
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=2343&p=24177


So the question is, where can I get my camera laser scanned so I too have a "STL?" file to work with? I wonder if I can make friends with someone in the San Francisco Silicon Valley area.


EDIT: (I re-read page 1)
http://www.emachineshop.com/
(trying the free program now)

EDIT 2: (also on page 1, whoops)
Better yet!
"Find a 3D printer near you.
get your designs printed by a maker or print shop in your neighborhood."
http://www.makexyz.com/
__________________________________

Is 99 cents too good to be true? Search eBay for: Jelly Lens
http://r.ebay.com/BDvCWe
I ordered one just to try, I don't mind wasting $1 USD for a quick experiment.

uLCsU6n.jpg

iL39Iy3.jpg


Jelly Lens for Mobile Phone Camera: Polarized Effect by Kikkerland https://www.amazon.com/gp/B001XTKYE4 via @amazon
(good review)

EDIT, the 20mm Jelly Lens will most likely be too small. The minimum is probably 30mm to prevent vignetting
 
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I started this thread. Here is my progress so far.

This is the finished adapter used to attach the CPL filter to the BlackVue. The spray paint was suitable for plastics, but I'm supposed to wait 5 to 7 days for the paint to have its maximum adhesion. Then I'll do the final assembly. However, I did a trial fit of the unpainted part, and it works fine.
bracket-sanded-painted_zpsf8ba2c8f.jpg


I found someone through makekxyz.com who did the part using 3D stereolithography (UV light shining on a special resin) for a REALLY good price.

Here is the part as delivered. The little posts are part of the printing process. They snap off easily, and are gone with light sanding. I picked the flat mounting surface (where the CPL filter attaches) for the post location, since a flat surface would be easier to sand, and I allowed an extra .5 mm of material so I could sand to fit.
bracket-as-printed_zps82cebdda.jpg


The inside diameter was around 20.1 mm instead of the 20.5 mm desired, for some unknown reason, but that was OK. I rotated the inside diameter hole around a tiny piece of 100 grit sandpaper on my fingertip. I checked the work with digital calipers, making sure the hole stayed circular. The photo shows the calipers measuring the outside diameter.
bracket-cleanup_zpsd7e1b73e.jpg


I used 320, 400 and then 600 grit sandpaper on the other surfaces to get a uniform finish. Sanding was minimal and took very little time. (The top photo of this post shows the curved bottom surface of the painted bracket, which was not sanded. You can see faint lines, showing the smoothness of the printing process.)

The bracket fit nice and tight with a press fit.

I'll post later showing the finished product, along with photos of the before-and-after effects of the CPL filter.
 
Nice! How did you cut the CPL filter to fit in your new 3D printed ring? (EDIT: never mind, I re-read page 1)
I have some digital CALIPERS on order via ebay. (been wanting a pair for years)
 
JazJon said:
Nice! How did you cut the CPL filter to fit in your new 3D printed ring?
I have some digital CALIPERS on order via ebay. (been wanting a pair for years)

No cutting needed in my case. It is explained more in the first post of this thread, which includes a link to a very nice video showing the CPL filter that I am using.

My 3D gizmo needs to wait a week for the plastic compatible paint to fully dry and harden before I do final assembly. Bummer. Anyhow, here is a photo that may explain, showing my scheme in its present state.
bracket-ring-filter_zps0a2bfc8f.jpg


My custom 3D part is to the left. It is 32 mm outside diameter.

In the middle is a steel ring that came with my CPL filter. It is also 32 mm outside diameter. You can see the white paper covering the adhesive surface on the other side of the steel ring. Peel off the white paper and glue the 32 mm OD steel ring to the 32 mm OD custom 3D part.

On the right is the filter itself. It has magnets around the inner rim on the underside of the filter. Just place it on the steel ring, and it holds tight. You can rotate the filter to vary the polarization angle and thereby vary the amount of reflection on your windshield. With a slight tug you can pull the filter off for better night videos.

This shows what it will look like with the CPL filter magnetically attached to my custom 3D part.
filter-in-place_zpsb1a6a294.jpg


It sounds like you might be considering getting a sheet of polarized material, cutting it in a circle, and gluing it to a custom part on your dashcam. You would have to be careful to get the polarized material rotated to the best angle for reducing glare before doing the gluing. Also, your night videos would be darker with a filter permanently in place. Inexpensive plastic sheets of polarized material are commonly available, I think.

My filter looks large, but in other threads regarding filters for the DR500GW-HD, people were discovering that the filter needed to be a bit over 30 mm due to the wide-angle lens, and due to the typical filter ring holding the filter material a bit away from the dashcam. Otherwise, the filter blocks part of the video. It takes a bit of experimentation to find the right combination. The filter I picked was the smallest magnetic CPL over 30 mm that I could find.
 
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