Hands on the Livue LB100. $100 korean 720p dashcam

A. Install the Current Viewer.
B. Insert the SD Card on your PC. (Also you can play the files directly from your PC card location with some PC player)
C. Start the installed WinyBB Viewer
D. Press the Find button (the one with the magnifier) from the right side and you will see how it is changing the color from white to Yello
E. Wait until the PC viewer will see your card and load the list of the files
F. If you want to configure your camera you can press the top Config button

The LB100 was in January over $230. I think I was the first who purchased it for $100 and this only because I like the settings options (compared to Itronics dashcams).

enjoy,
Mtz
 
msdfw said:
The GPS was giving correct information very shortly after I powered it on while still in my garage. The position/speed accuracy looks really good from what I've seen so far.
Can you upload some GPS files?

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Maybe some user with GPS will help you.
Unfortunately until now they are not asking to the requests.

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Has anyone seen anything like this happen?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LkYIrXMfQ0

It seems fine in the beginning, but towards the middle it looks like the camera is moving or something, and the video turns all wavy or jello-y. As soon as the car starts moving, it seems to go away.

This is the second time it's happened, but I haven't gone through all my videos yet. It's happened a third time today. Is my camera defective?

If the color, contrast, or brightness looks off, ignore that because I was messing around with those settings.
 
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That is some "feature" (bug) of the CMOS technology which can be obtained with any camera with CMOS sensor. Try some search on youtube about jello effect like this.
Maybe you have a diesel car and/or your mount is not strong fixed.

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Mtz said:
That is some "feature" (bug) of the CMOS technology which can be obtained with any camera with CMOS sensor. Try some search on youtube about jello effect like this.
Maybe you have a diesel car and/or your mount is not strong fixed.

enjoy,
Mtz

My car isn't a diesel. Now that I think about it, it seems to only happen when the car is sitting idle at a light or whatever when the car still is warming up. Once I've driven for a few minutes (by then the car is now at operating temperature) that doesn't seem to happen anymore. Maybe there are little vibrations going through the windshield while the engine is still cold. I will check next time I drive.
 
If you have a the ball mount check the screw nut again.

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Just got mine it, installed the viewer and tweaked firmware settings. However, I'm getting a very fuzzy/hazy image and a lot of artifacts. I cleaned the glass on my windshield, and on the lens. Any idea what's causing this?

J9Ik4po.jpg
 
Try it outside the car if its still doing it then its possible the lens focus was not set correctly, one of those things that can happen unfortunately
 
jokiin said:
Try it outside the car if its still doing it then its possible the lens focus was not set correctly, one of those things that can happen unfortunately

Just to add to jokiin's reply, the focus is easy to set yourself. The lens should have been "set" with a dab of glue. Have a good look at it with the casing removed to decide whether or not you want to try this. It is normally possible to break the seal by turning the lens, make sure to support the lens mount so you don't stress the pcb (possibly a good idea to apply a little heat from a heat gun or hairdryer, just don't overdo it as you could deform the casing and cause other damage). It's then a case of trial and error to get the focus right, just do tiny corrections, no big turns. Don't forget to apply a dab of glue to set the focus after finding the "sweet" spot.

Cheers :) Mario
 
mariomart said:
jokiin said:
Try it outside the car if its still doing it then its possible the lens focus was not set correctly, one of those things that can happen unfortunately

Just to add to jokiin's reply, the focus is easy to set yourself. The lens should have been "set" with a dab of glue. Have a good look at it with the casing removed to decide whether or not you want to try this. It is normally possible to break the seal by turning the lens, make sure to support the lens mount so you don't stress the pcb (possibly a good idea to apply a little heat from a heat gun or hairdryer, just don't overdo it as you could deform the casing and cause other damage). It's then a case of trial and error to get the focus right, just do tiny corrections, no big turns. Don't forget to apply a dab of glue to set the focus after finding the "sweet" spot.

Cheers :) Mario


Oh okay, so the glass of the lens simply 'twists' to focus? Cool, will have to try tomorrow. Post results as I do.
 
the lens is generally on a threaded base, a little glue is used to lock it in place when the focus is set
 
First you need to be sure you have the right cable for the Video Out which is working with the camera and the TV.
It is not easy to focus the lens. First, take care to not destroy the 4 screws of the camera and use a very good screw driver for the size of that screws.
After disassembling the camera is easy to take out the lens module.
On the top of the lens there is some small metallic cylinder, right near the glass. When refocusing the lens is possible to take it out.
The hardest part is to remove the glue so you can turn the lens cylinder. You will need a lot of force to turn the lens.
After you can move the lens for adjusting the focus you must use the Video Out connection, some TV and you must to focus the camera on far objects, not the closer ones.
When you will have the good focus, for the best position you must turn the lens very little. In just few grades the focus can be OK or not.

Avoid to disassemble the lens module completely because is possible to enter dust on the CMOS and is hard to take it out. Just refocus the lens.
Make a photo with the lens module position on the PCB before taking it out. Is better to remember its position.

Good Luck!

Mtz
 
Thank you everyone for your prompt replies! However, I now feel bad for what I am about to admit. It seems I was a little anxious to get it installed and running, and in doing so, forgot a very basic part of the unpacking process. :oops:

Though, the rapid and detailed replies from this forum are quite impressive, and I apologize for not checking this before posting here. I'm quite embarrassed! The image is perfect now, though, so I'm happy I don't have to chance breaking it.

Thank you all again, and feel free to laugh at this picture!

jOMtxA9FvcoDN.jpg
 
Is very hard to keep that cover on the lens even if you want this.

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Classic :roll:

Do you need any help in removing it? I'm sure one of us can provide detailed removal instructions. Perhaps Mtz :lol:

Cheers :) Mario
 
Timely post there Pico...
Just received one of these, unfortunately they sent the one without the GPS rather than the one I ordered :( Have asked lightnspace if they can simply send the GPS bracket rather than shipping the lot back.

As an aside regarding the parking mode & the battery voltage threshold, has anyone tried using a low forward voltage drop diode in the 12v supply?
Just an idea as depending on the current this draws it may be possible to fool the detection circuit in the camera to shut down at a higher battery voltage?

John
 
pico said:
inside the GPS module.

Thanks pico!

It looks like it'd be quite easy to integrate a GPS module to the LB100.
I guess any 3.3V compliant GPS module (NMEA, 9600b) should work. We just need to figure out Vcc, GND, TX and RX pins on the LB100 connector.
 
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