Lost battery tab

RBEmerson

Active Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2017
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Location
SE PA USA
Country
United States
Dash Cam
Sjcam SJ7, Sena Prism
Those little black plastic tabs, for pulling out a battery, strike me as a material failure waiting to happen. Sunuvagun, one of mine broke off today.

Has anyone else lost a tab? Has anyone come up with a work-around? Right now, my best guess is to use two loops of upholstery thread, at either end of the battery, to tug the battery out.
 
No i have not lost one of those, but i have been thinking that might happen one day due to the batteries fit that tight in the camers.
 
Agreed - the tabs struck me as not the best idea. Too bad they didn't, as an example, a cloth tab.

If a battery does get stuck from swelling, all I can think of is to run a small screw into slot of the tab and pull on the screw. Since a swollen battery is automatically no longer safe to use (*), I'm not too worried about the screw making a mess of things.

(*)The odds of the battery failing catastrophically are extremely low but pressure on the cells is one thing that can short them out internally. At that point the cells short out and quickly become hot enough to ignite the lithium. Explosively.

DO NOT POUR WATER ON A LITHIUM BATTERY FIRE!


While the battery is exploding, the fire is hot enough to disassociate the oxygen and hydrogen in water (water = H2O) which will make things exponentially worse. If the explosions are over, Halon or CO2, powder, or water can be used to put out the associated fire. If you think a battery might go, unless you have a Halon or CO2 extinguisher, let it go. BTW, Halon, being a fluorocarbon, can release fluorine gas when used in a very hot fire - fluorine gas is bad for all living things, including you.

Have a nice day.
 
I 've re-enforced all my battery tabs with pcs. of tough plastic pkg.tape because of battery's tabs that broke loose!
'common problem with all my action cam batteries that have tabs!
 
Photos? I thought about putting on a tab made with Gorilla Tape or racing tape, but any pull to get the battery out will probably pull the tape off of the battery. Or am I missing the obvious again?
 
Ya, actually please share photos so we can share with factory. if your unit is really reaching 57c we may need you to ship it back for replacement.
 
57C and it's repeatable. I think this is best handled under support ticket #23620
 
Great. We will have a reply to you today.
 
I've started another test run, with the time & date stamp on. I'll post frame grabs from the video to see a) how hot the camera gets and b) how fast the temperature rises.
 
They're in their weekend. No reply 'til monday.
 
@RBEmerson
Did you get any reply?
Yes, I did. The full exchange from their response forward:
SJCam Support said:
All electronic equipment generate heat during operation, your SJ7' s body and chassis are made of metal to easily take heat out of the processor and it is considered normal.

If camera's body is too hot to touch, please turn the unit off and let it cool down before using it again.

We suggest you pull out battery when using camera as dash cam in car because relatively inclosing space is not good for heat dissipation.
RBEmerson said:
I agree that all electronic equipment generates heat. I expect the SJ7 case to get hot, given all of the processing and the relatively small dissipation area. However 135F/57C, too hot to handle safely, is excessively hot. It represents the possibility the user may sustain at least first degree burns.

Further, the high temperature, 57C, appeared with firmware version V1.20. Under V1.15 the case temperatures reached only about 125F/51C, which is hot but safe to handle. Is there something in V1.20 that is causing the higher temperature? I leave to SJCam to research this issue.

The camera was not being used as a dashcam. It was sitting on my desk, out of sunlight, in normal room temperature - 77F/25C. The test was conducted over about 30-35 minutes, or the typical duration of a battery charge.

My typical use is to put the camera in the motorcycle case and using an external battery pack. The camera is mounted on my helmet. I have no way to measure the camera's temperature in this circumstance. It's reasonable, however, to assume the camera will be even hotter when used in typical summer temperatures of 85F/29C and full sunlight. In short, I expect that the camera will effectively cook itself to the point of failure. At the moment, in much cooler outdoor temperatures of about 45F/7C, the camera has begun to operate erratically, crashing and/or locking up (ignoring button presses or app commands). I can only assume this is due to overheating.

The recommendation to remove the battery is reasonable.

"Turn it off and let it cool down" is unreasonable. I bought the camera assuming I can use it whenever there's something I want to video. If the camera's not usable when something that can't be reproduced happens, the camera might as well be sitting in a box because it's useless.

I expect a replacement camera, given it's present unreliability due to heat-induced crashes.

I've attached a screen grab of the Amazon receipt for my order for the SJ7.

I'll send, shortly, photos of thermometer readings while shooting video.
ADDED: Photos to follow here, too.
RBEmerson said:
As part of retrieving the video from my recent testing, I followed your instructions and removed the battery before connecting to external power. The SJ7 cannot be powered up by external power unless the battery is present. Once powered up, the battery can be removed. The only time this can be done is when the camera is outside of the case. Once in the case, there is no way to removed the battery. The motorcycle case does not permit removing the battery. In short, the procedure is simply not possible except when the SJ7 is used as a dashcam.

Further, from an engineering standpoint, removing the battery has no effect on heat dissipation. Heat radiated into the empty battery compartment heats the air in the compartment. That air, because the battery door is sealed shut, cannot exchange with outside air. The battery compartment air then reaches 135F/57C, too.
RBEmerson said:
Attached are six photos, showing the temperature of the front of the case. The camera was shooting 1080p@60 fps, the speed I use for motorcycle videos. The camera, as the photos show, was sitting in free air on my desk. The photos show the camera reaching 135F/57C in about 35 minutes of continuous shooting. The camera was shooting with its battery, not external power.
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i-SC59hR9-L.png

The support response is, for me, a mix of absurdity and "blame the customer for using the product". To say I'm losing faith in the SJ7 and SJCam isn't unreasonable.
 
If camera's body is too hot to touch, please turn the unit off and let it cool down before using it again. :) :) :)
Best answer I've ever heard. Way to go SJCAM support.
Only solution for overheat problem is to put our camera into box and buy GoPro :(
 
OK, kids, let this be a lesson for you... Don't do drugs. You'll wind up saying something silly like that support(?) ...um... individual did.
facepalm.gif
 
buy GoPro

Dont know about current ones, but the GP4 i think was also plagued by heat issues as i recall.

Sure metal can conduct heat, it cam also trap heat, if you want it conducted the best thing are to have the heat generator touching the metal to facilitate transfer of heat as optimal as possible.
But that just bring you half way there, the metal in turn have to offload that heat to something, in most cases air, and to do that optimal you will need a steady flow of air over the metal, and to further increase heat transfer you need as much surface area as possible.
This is why you see computer CPU coolers have a lot of fins to increase its surface area by a large factor, the pickup point from CPU to the cooler can be small but exchanging from heat in the metal of the cooler to air you need a larger surface area as its a less optimal to transfer heat into air.
This is why water cooled computers are a step up from air cooled, its the same rules in play but transferring heat into water are more easy, but you still need a radiator to transfer the heat of the water into air.
Again here whit water cooling you can go passive, but its way less effective so you will see much higher temperatures.

In general i find that with computers and say comparing a 2 fan ( 120 mm ) heat pipe cooler to a water cooled setup with a dual fan ( 120 mm ) on the radiator, you can in general get off with running the fans on the radiator at half the speed the fans need on a air cooler to get the same temperatures, and amping things up with overclocking the CPU mean the water cooled rig can go further up in CPU speed.

Off course you can go passive cooling on a computer CPU too, but you at least need a heat pipe cooler then, to use liquid / gas in the heat pipe to aid in heat transfer, and then you probably have to use a CPU that dont generate as much heat.

To my knowledge no action or dash cameras have the main heat generator ( the SOC ) directly in contact with the chassis, this might even be a bad idea as you will have a direct heat path so at least some point of the chassis could become almighty hot.
 
It's a tough situation. Basically, features make heat, the case can only dissipate so much heat before reaching a balance between heat in and heat out. Right now the point of equilibrium is around 135. There it is.
 
Great thanks for posting that link!! It's very helpful!

Would please you post that on the SJCam site, too?
 
Good on you(*). [/smile]
(*) US western colloquial expression
 
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