GitUp F1: any good for dash cam use?

They did here too, or that is for kid ( 18 YO ) drives.
So if you are 18 - 20 YO and get MC license, that will be a A1 license and so you can only drive a 125 CCM bike.
When you are 20 - 24 and get a MC license you get into A2 license which mean you can drive a motorcycle up to 96 HP ( volume don't matter )
When you have become 24 you go strait into the A license and you can drive any motorcycle.
But then again as i read the rather silly rules, you just need 2 years driving experience to get into A territory, so that to me mean if you are 18 and get license and a 125 CCM bike, you can drive that for 2 years and then when you have become 20 step up to any size motorcycle.
So its either age or 2 years of driving experience that determine what kind of bike you are allowed to drive.

This rules i mentioned first are only if you are in that age group it seem, and a first time MC driver.
As i understand it i as a 53 YO can go get a MC license and go strait out and buy myself a 300 HP crotch rocket, i assume me having such a long time of car driving experience count for something,,,, and that's nice too, but probably not good for many MC drivers.

Actually the most bikers that get hurt here, are old guys in the panic age that have gone and gotten them self a MC, but the most horrific crashes are still the younger MC drivers.
And the most prolific 2 wheelers to get hurt or killed are still 15-16-17 YO male kids on mopeds, most often crashing while being drunk.

I still find it silly i have to do the traffic rule part again, i have already done that two times, once for car and once for lorry / truck, and really the motorcycles it is just the 2 wheel thing ( and most dashe are good drivers on 2 wheel bicycles at least ) so to me that just leave the learning the other braking distances and turn speeds of motorcycles and ideal placement on road, and a track course of XX hours should be fine for that.

And actually if i wanted to go get a MC license now, though i am proficient in the traffic code, i still am forced to get some minimum hours of classroom work on the traffic code, i cant just skip that and go strait to driving the MC and then later a test.
Okay i know as i am down with the traffic code taking that test again should be a breeze, but at the same time this is also what make me think why do i have to do that part again as the new things in it are just the braking distances for a MC, and helmet use, all other rules are generic traffic rules, and its so few why have a test for that
 
Beyond the obvious chance of falling over, the dynamics of motorcycling is different than sitting in a car, and you need different reactions to some situations because there's nothing around you to protect you in a crash. I'm given to understand that some States here require an AMA approved Motorcycle safety course before licensing which I'm all in favor of. Yet there are (or at least were) some States where the official version of how to ride would get you hurt, such as Indiana where they wanted you to ride in the center of your lane. That's the oiliest slickest part especailly in the rain, and it renders you less visible to other drivers too. You've got two brakes to deal with and it would surprise you how many riders rely mostly on the rear brake for fear of flying over the handlebars even when it's barely effective compared to the front brake. Being in neutral with hands off the bars at a stoplight can delay you from darting out of the way should a crashing car be headed toward you. These are just some of the not always obvious differences that riders really need to know if they want to stay alive ;)

Now back to @dirkzelf and the F1 :) To me the footage doesn't look as crisp in the distance as it should, but I'm on a smallish laptop @ 1080 resolution. Still even here I've seen sharper footage so I know it isn't just my machine. Closer to the cam it is sharp, and seems to be equal to what other's have posted with this cam. I've noticed similar effects with other cams; there does seem to be some slight variation in each cam's build quality or lens quality sometimes which could explain this. I remember it being most evident with the G1W/C, some of which gave stunning footage while most were just average. Not looking bad here, but I do think the F1 is capable of slightly better in some examples.

Phil
 
Beyond the obvious chance of falling over, the dynamics of motorcycling is different than sitting in a car, and you need different reactions to some situations because there's nothing around you to protect you in a crash. I'm given to understand that some States here require an AMA approved Motorcycle safety course before licensing which I'm all in favor of. Yet there are (or at least were) some States where the official version of how to ride would get you hurt, such as Indiana where they wanted you to ride in the center of your lane. That's the oiliest slickest part especailly in the rain, and it renders you less visible to other drivers too. You've got two brakes to deal with and it would surprise you how many riders rely mostly on the rear brake for fear of flying over the handlebars even when it's barely effective compared to the front brake. Being in neutral with hands off the bars at a stoplight can delay you from darting out of the way should a crashing car be headed toward you. These are just some of the not always obvious differences that riders really need to know if they want to stay alive ;)

Now back to @dirkzelf and the F1 :) To me the footage doesn't look as crisp in the distance as it should, but I'm on a smallish laptop @ 1080 resolution. Still even here I've seen sharper footage so I know it isn't just my machine. Closer to the cam it is sharp, and seems to be equal to what other's have posted with this cam. I've noticed similar effects with other cams; there does seem to be some slight variation in each cam's build quality or lens quality sometimes which could explain this. I remember it being most evident with the G1W/C, some of which gave stunning footage while most were just average. Not looking bad here, but I do think the F1 is capable of slightly better in some examples.

Phil


I removed the lens for testing with the F1.2 and the A119S lens, and screwe it back in, so there may be a focussing issue from my side that's not comletely cosher... I focus this camera by hand through wifi on my tablet, taking about 3 meters distance to the license plate.

Is that the right way?

Besides I'm getting 2 new lenses to play with:

6MP / F1.4 (I thought I had tested one in the F1, but it appeared to be another type):


12MP:


Be interesting to see what's what....
 
Perhaps try a slightly longer distance for focusing to see if the results are different. It's all about experimenting until you get the best results, and thanks for sharing your experiences (y)

Phil
 
Perhaps try a slightly longer distance for focusing to see if the results are different. It's all about experimenting until you get the best results, and thanks for sharing your experiences (y)

Phil

If I need further distance, I need bigger license plates, just have a small tablet.... Hahaha OK, I'l try.
 
I focus this camera by hand through wifi on my tablet, taking about 3 meters distance to the license plate.
The standard lens should be in focus from about 80cm to infinity, so centering the focus on 3m is good, or adjust it so that it just goes into focus at 1m.

Note that at this time of year, due to the low light levels, when it is on the bike it is quite likely to suffer some motion blur from camera shake (engine / road vibrations), this will be much better in the summer. A good mount is needed for best performance.
 
I took the Viofo A119S lens that was lying aroud doing nothing because my A119S is fitted with the F1.2 lens, and installed it in the F1 camera:


 
Many trucks here look like a crash landed UFO from the LED galaxy.
I don't get when people go overboard with something, not even when i myself do it, then there are always a period of some months where i question myself and why i have done something.
I am pretty sure i will get it too when i am finished with building my computer.
 
Check out my bad @ss truck headlights, newest SCANIA Led's..... wish I had those on my Fiat Punto.....!!!

Those look better than most. With most LED headlight systems there is a very sharp cut-off at the top of the beam so that beyond the main illuminated area (which is not shining very far down the road) you see nothing o_O But because it's so much brighter up close most people think it's got to be better. Yours have some 'spill' going past the main beam area which is what you really need most :cool: The main beams (high beams in the US) are aimed rather high which again is good because you can see past the bottom of a valley you're driving into; again a shortcoming of many LED headlight systems with their too-sharp top cut-off.

The downside of all of these is that your brighter lights reduces the night vision of oncoming drivers. Now they need brighter headlights to see too, which then reduces your night vision when you approach them :rolleyes: Now we've got two blinded drivers attempting to see where they're going :LOL: I used to have a spotlight on an old pick-up I drove. I kept it aimed right into the driver's face of oncoming traffic at a distance and when someone refused to dim their lights they'd get blasted :p Only once did that not get them to dim their lights in the two years I had the old thing on the road. I'm not saying it was right but it sure was effective!

Phil
 
As per law and common curtesy, our normal lights are low, not blinding anyone, these hi beam you are seeing are 2 high beams on the low side of the truck (bumper), and 2 on top of the roof..... these 2 top roof lights can't be used in traffic, just on these kind of outer roads, and it wás the road that invided me to try these out... Of course we don't blind anyone, because, as you so kindly pointed out, it will always bite us right back in the @ss.
 
( @gitup ) I noticed my F1 sometimes beeps and just stops recording. Then, sometimes, after a few seconds starts again, but most times it does not restart recording, and I need to press the recording button. Very annoying, anyone else have that too? I use Kodak U3 512GB Micro SDXC card.
 
( @gitup ) I noticed my F1 sometimes beeps and just stops recording. Then, sometimes, after a few seconds starts again, but most times it does not restart recording, and I need to press the recording button. Very annoying, anyone else have that too? I use Kodak U3 512GB Micro SDXC card.
Probably the memory card is not keeping up, I also have a card that causes beeping in the F1, with other cards it is fine.
If you are testing card speed, test it using a non-UHS card reader (old USB 2 or with the card in the camera), my card that causes the problem is a decent speed on UHS but a bit slow on non-UHS, and occasionally slows down for a short period to less than required for the F1.
 
Probably the memory card is not keeping up, I also have a card that causes beeping in the F1, with other cards it is fine.
If you are testing card speed, test it using a non-UHS card reader (old USB 2 or with the card in the camera), my card that causes the problem is a decent speed on UHS but a bit slow on non-UHS, and occasionally slows down for a short period to less than required for the F1.

That might be it. Let me check speed test in camera, cause that's where it all happens....
 
( @gitup ) I noticed my F1 sometimes beeps and just stops recording. Then, sometimes, after a few seconds starts again, but most times it does not restart recording, and I need to press the recording button. Very annoying, anyone else have that too? I use Kodak U3 512GB Micro SDXC card.
If you watch the display it might say something like "low card speed". At least with the F1 you get an error message, unlike some other cameras
 
If you watch the display it might say something like "low card speed". At least with the F1 you get an error message, unlike some other cameras

there's definitely something on the display, but I can't read it while driving my rig... that could bring an interesting crash video to the world.... :ROFLMAO:
 
that's slow, right?
Looks quite fast to me if the card was in the camera.

I normally use h2testw.exe to test the speed and watch the speed as it is running, the average at the end is interesting but it is the slowest bit that causes the beeps...
 
Looks quite fast to me if the card was in the camera.

I normally use h2testw.exe to test the speed and watch the speed as it is running, the average at the end is interesting but it is the slowest bit that causes the beeps...

Yes I tested on the USB 3 connect cable to my PC with Crystal Disk.

I can try a copy of a lot of random files to the card via that connection to see how low it sincks (?).
 
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