Battery-based dash cams, Cellink/T-Power Plus α, and Super capacitors

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Does anyone here know the answer to this question: Do I need to mess with Super Capacitors if my (battery-based) dash cam (e.g., Koonlung K1S) will be connected to a UPS-like battery system such as a Cellink (https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...une-24-2015-cellink-b-expansion-review.11276/ ) or the Anypower T-Power Plus Alpha
(
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/anypower-t-power-plus-alpha-full-review-video-added.9275/ ) ?

In this link HERE, I learned that battery-based (vs. capacitor-based) dash cams can swell and explode from the constant charging/discharging that results from a hardwired configuration. [see it at: https://dashcamtalk.com/kdlinks-x1/#Battery_Swells_Explodes]. Also learned was that the primary (perhaps, the only?) function of a Super Capacitor is to gracefully save the last file in the event of a catastrophic lost of power to the dash cam (or, DVR in the case of remote lenses).

It would, then, seem to me that if I have the dash cam connected to an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) type of system, a power source will continue to be available to the dash cam even if a catastrophic loss of power were to occur and that the need for super capacitors would be a moot issue, no?

Note: I am not well-versed in electronics, so I best learn at a "systems" level, that is, at a black box, plug-and-play level. As such, while all comments are MOST welcome, systems level comments will make the best impact on me at this point in my dash cam learning curve!!
 
the camera might not work without its own battery, if the cellink was removed it would still corrupt the last file
 
The only risk you facing is if in case of accident there will be power loss between Cellink and your dashcam ( where you removed a battery from, as I understood your idea ).
 
Sorry Niko if I wasn't clear enough: I would leave the battery in the K1S, and connect the K1S to the Cellink. Would I need super capacitors then?
I am making the assumption that if the the power cable between the Cellink and the dash cam is damaged as a result of an accident, that I would not care anyway, because if the accident is so catastrophic as to interfere with the power cable between the Cellink and the dash cam then I will probably be dead anyway and will let my now adult children worry about what happens next.
 
the camera might not work without its own battery, if the cellink was removed it would still corrupt the last file

I think you are saying that this idea may work, saving all files, including the last one, as long as the power from the Cellink to the dash cam is not interrupted. Did I read you right?

Also, I think by "the last file" you mean the one that was being recorded at the time a catastrophic event occurs - a catastrophic event meaning something in the order of a mortal accident or an accident that results in the total loss of the vehicle. Is that what you meant?
 
I think you are saying that this idea may work, saving all files, including the last one, as long as the power from the Cellink to the dash cam is not interrupted. Did I read you right?

Also, I think by "the last file" you mean the one that was being recorded at the time a catastrophic event occurs - a catastrophic event meaning something in the order of a mortal accident or an accident that results in the total loss of the vehicle. Is that what you meant?

any accident that results in power loss to the camera
 
any accident that results in power loss to the camera

OK, then I think I have pretty much "covered all the bases" now.
Here is my plan:
Objective: Continuous 24/7 recording of front and rear of vehicle while driving as well as while parked day and/or night.
Solution: A hardwired K1S dual cam system, via a Cellink B.
Procedure:
1. Connect Cellink B to an Always-on fuse (other than any of the vehicle's safety system)
2. Connect the dash cam to the Cellink B (a basic 12v-to-5v converter might be needed I believe)
3. Set the K1S dash cams (including their internal batteries as received from the factory) in place via glue/velcro/suction cups/whatever and hide all the wires
4. Turn on both dash cams
5. Insert & format a Lexmar 633x 128GB UHS-1 card (Lexmar 633x 64GB UHS-1 handy, JIC)
6. Enjoy the show!
Is it really that simple? If so, why then the 231,639 messages in over 16k discussions in DCT? I must have missed something...
(EDIT: Added important step #5- uSD card)
 
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does the K1S work reliably without a battery? Am I right in thinking you want to run the camera without its battery in place?

I'm not even sure it works that reliably with a battery, if it glitches without a battery you stand to lose footage
 
does the K1S work reliably without a battery? Am I right in thinking you want to run the camera without its battery in place?

I'm not even sure it works that reliably with a battery, if it glitches without a battery you stand to lose footage

No, it seems it doesn't work that reliably, with or without a battery, but neither do any of the other ones, it seems, for I have yet to read anyone say they will bet a week's salary on their dash cam or dance naked in the middle of 5th Avenue. (LOL) I mean I just have to take my chances with the Ambarella...
 
I think you're looking at a product that is already a bit glitchy and working out an expensive way to make it less reliable than it already is
 
I think you're looking at a product that is already a bit glitchy and working out an expensive way to make it less reliable than it already is

Perhaps or perhaps not. I have invested considerable amounts of my time reading these forums and what we all agree on is that there is no perfect dash cam product (or solution). As for cost, all the pieces listed above are within my budget, and better yet, if I don't like the K1S, it won't matter because the Cellink can always be reused with any other dash cam. Even better yet, I get to learn lots more about dash cams, because just typing here won't cut it any more. So, the way I see it, I am a winner either way! :)
 
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