Hardwire 2 USB ports

[tonetoro]

I've bought a A118C (Australian temp) and am planning to hardwire 2 USB ports and then run cables, one for the A118C and another for mobile phone use.
I can solder, but knowledge of electrical things is at 0, knowledge currently from reading on other peoples installs. Didn't even know what a Ferrite Core and Ring Terminal were called till now.

Iulian posted what looks to be almost exactly what I want here.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...wire-any-dashcam-no-experience-required.7712/

List of items to purchase
Dual 2 USB DC-DC Car Charger Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Power Adapter New
15ft USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5pin Male 28/24AWG Cable w/ Ferrite Core (Gold Plated)
10ft USB 2.0 A Male to Micro 5pin Male 28/24AWG Cable w/ Ferrite Core (Gold Plated)
New 1X ATM APM Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back MINI Blade Fuse Holder 15A ACS 12V
5 pcs 5A 5AMP Mini Size Blade Type Car Fuse Auto Cars & Trucks Fuses New
Ring RED Insulated wire Crimp Terminal Connector AWG16-22 #AU

Questions

1. Do the USB cables need to be shielded and have Ferrite Cores or am I just better paying the extra as its a (semi) permanent install?
   
2. I've confirmed that my car (2000 Lancer) uses mini blade fuses. What amp fuse should it be to cover both dashcam and phone charging?
3. Would the 5amp be fine? (jokiin suggested here https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a118-fuse-question.8531/).
   
4. Would the piggy back just go into the spare slot (provided its a fuse slot thats not always on)
5. Any idea of about what type of solder I would need? I've tried a repair on a instrument cluster in my car and the solder I've used in the past has given me problems during the Summer.

Just realised I don't have a crimper as shown in this video
How To Hardwire a Dashcam Simple Easy Steps

 

[Yooshaw]

I'll give it a stab...

1. Shielded is always better. I wouldn't bother with a ferrite core unless you know you have FM interference issues from prior experience. You can add it later if it is an issue.
2. 5 Amp would be plenty

3. Yes, see above

4. Yes - or you can tap into a non-critical fuse if the spares are always hot (like my car's spares)

5. Leaded solder is easier to work with than non-leaded

 

[tonetoro]

Thanks Yooshaw.

Will leaded possible be a problem at 40 degrees (104 fahrenheit)?
I won't need the crimper tool will I?

 

[Yooshaw]

40 degrees shouldn't be a problem. You'll need a crimper if you are going to use the connectors that come on the kit. It sounded like you are going to solder, in which case you can cut off those connectors and solder the wire directly. I'd pick up some shrink wrap tubing to cover the connection as well, but electrical tape can work if you wrap it right.

 

[SawMaster]

Leaded solder only; it will perform fine at any vehicle temps plus give better connections due to it's much easier use. 30+ years soldering experience here and the no-lead solder is still hard for me to use. The best lead flux-core solder is 'eutectic' (like 63/37) but 60/40 is nearly as easy and nearly as good. Use of a flux pen before soldering makes it easier. Clean before and after soldering with isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip. Avoid all cheap stuff regarding soldering. A good joint will be well-flowed everywhere and shiny; use just enough heat and time to get that. Solder flows toward where the heat is being applied; apply the heat to the larger part of the connection and feed the solder from the other side/end. Add flux if you need to re-heat a 'cold' joint which will appear grayish and dull. 'Cold joints' are the most common soldering failure; they may work fine now but will go bad later.

Heat-shrink is far superior to tape. The thinner kind can be doubled or tripled one-at-a-time. Careful to not burn it, gentle heat constantly moving increased slowly till it's shrunk. You're gonna love it once you get the hang of it. Just remember to slide it on the wire first and keep the soldering heat away from it.

Don't scrimp on the cables, you can't have "too good" with them. Snap-on ferrites can easily be added later if you need them. Route cables as far away from and not parallel to antennas and their cabling as is practical.

Phil

 

[tonetoro]

Thanks for the help and great advice Yooshaw/Sawmaster. I def don't have that much experience in soldering so will be applying this to all other solder jobs.