hard wiring kits, why not have built in fuse plugs?

[USDashCamera]

So all of these hard wiring kits come with bare wires.... it is recommended you buy an add-a-fuse.... why arent these just built in? it seems stupid.

I suppose cost would be an issue, but if I saw two products side by side, and one did not need either a half assed install or an add-a-fuse vs. one with the "add-a-fuse" built in I would just by the one that fits your fuse plug native.

Update [9/16/16]:

I actually did a review on a hardwire kit awhile ago that features built in add-a-circuits like i wanted. forgot about this post.

 

[jokiin]

So all of these hard wiring kits come with bare wires.... it is recommended you buy an add-a-fuse.... why arent these just built in? it seems stupid.

I suppose cost would be an issue, but if I saw two products side by side, and one did not need either a half assed install or an add-a-fuse vs. one with the "add-a-fuse" built in I would just by the one that fits your fuse plug native.

it's not a cost thing but not all fuse boxes take the same size fuzes so which should you include?

 

[USDashCamera]

it's not a cost thing but not all fuse boxes take the same size fuzes so which should you include?

Oh I suppose every car I've had has had the same size fuses so I never thought of that.

 

[jokiin]

Oh I suppose every car I've had has had the same size fuses so I never thought of that.

there's maybe 5 different types of fuses that I'm familiar with, maybe others, not sure, mini blade is fairly common on Japanese cars

 

[reverend]

Yeah mine is weird and has a mixture of both - the permanent fuses seem to be the old style big ones and then the switched ones are all the little mini fuses!

 

[Limeybastard]

An inline fuse won't be needed if one is tapping the hardware kit into an existing accessory wire right ?

Sent from my SM-G928T

 

[WA3PNT]

An inline fuse won't be needed if one is tapping the hardware kit into an existing accessory wire right ?

Sent from my SM-G928T

It is advisable to put a fuse in the Hardwire from the Cam.

This way should something go wrong with the Cam, you will not blow the fuse for the wire that you've tapped into.

Most of the Hardwire Assemblies that I've seen have a fuse in the Battery and Accessory line.

RodeoGeorge

 

[Limeybastard]

It is advisable to put a fuse in the Hardwire from the Cam.

This way should something go wrong with the Cam, you will not blow the fuse for the wire that you've tapped into.

Most of the Hardwire Assemblies that I've seen have a fuse in the Battery and Accessory line.

RodeoGeorge

I get ya, so basically if something happens to the camera then my accessory fuse won't blow. Thus rendering my accessory unusable.

Sent from my SM-G928T

 

[Harsh]

An inline fuse won't be needed if one is tapping the hardware kit into an existing accessory wire right ?

Sent from my SM-G928T

It is advisable to put a fuse in the Hardwire from the Cam.

This way should something go wrong with the Cam, you will not blow the fuse for the wire that you've tapped into.

Most of the Hardwire Assemblies that I've seen have a fuse in the Battery and Accessory line.

RodeoGeorge

I get ya, so basically if something happens to the camera then my accessory fuse won't blow. Thus rendering my accessory unusable.

Sent from my SM-G928T

If you're using a fuse-tap/add-a-fuse, you don't need an in-line fuse. The additional fuse inserted into the fuse-tap will blow, not the original accessory fuse.

 

[WA3PNT]

The OP stated he was tapping "into an existing accessory wire".

Not using a fuse-tao.

RodeoGeorge

 

[SawMaster]

Other than the cigarette lighter wiring which is usually robust, I'd recommend NOT tapping into a wire unless you know what you are doing. Today's cars have many circuits where the computer monitors them to adjust operating parameters and tapping into the wrong one could cause grief of epic financial proportions. Better to use a fuse tap om a known circuit

Phil

 

[jokiin]

Other than the cigarette lighter wiring which is usually robust, I'd recommend NOT tapping into a wire unless you know what you are doing. Today's cars have many circuits where the computer monitors them to adjust operating parameters and tapping into the wrong one could cause grief of epic financial proportions. Better to use a fuse tap om a known circuit

Phil

some vehicles monitor circuits and if they find an unexpected load turn the circuit off, some German cars are known for this issue but it happens in other brands also

 

[Limeybastard]

Other than the cigarette lighter wiring which is usually robust, I'd recommend NOT tapping into a wire unless you know what you are doing. Today's cars have many circuits where the computer monitors them to adjust operating parameters and tapping into the wrong one could cause grief of epic financial proportions. Better to use a fuse tap om a known circuit

Phil

How about just tapping into the "cig" power socket from behind. Meaning , solder existing supplied cig wire power cable in from behind instead of sticking it into the socket for which it was designed for?

This way all wires are hidden and no additional harness wires are needed , just chopping the supplied power cable that came with the cam and soldering it from where the vehicle socket is connected to.

Sent from my SM-G928T

 

[SawMaster]

That should work fine as long as the power to the lighter is doing what you want it to. In some cars it is continuous, while in others it drops out when you engage the starter and returns when you release the key. Those cars may not let the auto-start function of your cam to work correctly, or it may shut down a running cam. Best to test for that before doing permanent wiring. You should also have an inline fuse (5A is good) as close to the wire tap point as is practical so that a short doesn't smoke everything back to the fusebox.

That is one of my favorite spots to tap power from since it's usually easily accessible and near the center of the car where the accessory I'm adding is usually located near.

Phil

 

[Limeybastard]

That should work fine as long as the power to the lighter is doing what you want it to. In some cars it is continuous, while in others it drops out when you engage the starter and returns when you release the key. Those cars may not let the auto-start function of your cam to work correctly, or it may shut down a running cam. Best to test for that before doing permanent wiring. You should also have an inline fuse (5A is good) as close to the wire tap point as is practical so that a short doesn't smoke everything back to the fusebox.

That is one of my favorite spots to tap power from since it's usually easily accessible and near the center of the car where the accessory I'm adding is usually located near.

Phil

Guess what. ? Everything went so well but the stupid dual cig socket I added accommodates all plugs except for the a119 plug. The a119 plug ain't long enough so doesn't make contact at all. FML

Sent from my SM-G928T

 

[WA3PNT]

I addressed this in this post:

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...ests-and-bug-reports.20403/page-6#post-272891

RodeoGeorge

 

[USDashCamera]

I updated my original post with a hardwire kit that does exactly what I was asking for. The video is pretty old now but I forgot about this thread and noticed it was still high up.

 

[Limeybastard]

In the end I removed the supplied Viofo 12v plug plastic cover leaving the insides exposed, soldered a wire from the neg / ground ( which was red lol ) and also another wire soldered to the spring from the positive, made sure I used heatshrink wrap and insulation tape. I then soldered the positive extended wire that I made from the viofo 12v plug to the positive terminal of the vehicle 12v socket outlet and did the same for ground. I checked with a meter to make sure the postive wasnt grounded etc. So in the end I was left with harness coming out of the back of the vehicles 12v socket with two USB sockets that were from the viofo cigar plug adaptor , one currently feeds the A119 and the next one will hopefully feed my rear camera. All this to stick with making sure one uses the supplied step down voltage device that comes supplied with camera LOL.

Hopefully the supplied Viofo cigar adapter plug doesnt get hot? As I also wrapped that up with insulating tape since it was naked. I dont think they get warm at all.

 

[throrope]

I hardwired my dashcam, garmin gps and radar detector to the same add-a-fuse using loose 12V sockets and the provided power cords. I nylon tie the socket and plug together to insure contacts remain. The plugs are hidden in the dash and the wires hide behind trim until just before the units. The provided power cords are matched to the units with integral fuses. The add-a-fuse enables using a circuit energized with the ignition or always on as desired and can be switched later.

I've done this on both my Trailblazer and Malibu and haven't touched either since.

IMHO this method powers and protects the units as intended by the manufacturer and is less costly.