Hardwiring directly to battery?

Sawmaster and flip9 have proved my point corrosion is mentioned, using greases etc, it is car dependent so much easier to use a internal fusebox to tap power, solder is not "prone" to vibration how could it be ?, FACT solder fluxes contained in most solders like 60/40 lead/tin are corrosive this is the "cleaning" agent, in fact PINE TREE RESIN is much better flux, the application of LIQUID TAPE removes vibration from the joint as being rubber(latex) it absorbs it, how is a dash cam going to cause a high overcurrent most don't even use 500 m/a, the whole point is why put it in an area prone to heat extremes and moisture and a if you don't need to.
Mentioning amplifiers, AGAIN proves my point how much power does a amp draw compared with a dash cam, so if we were discussing amp installs I would agree but we're not.
FYI, F1 looms are crimped, then soldered, then with some teams x ray'd every joint and made to the exact same spec as the engine loom on my car with type44 wire, I know as my mate made mine who does these for some very exotic hyper car manufacturers and used to do F1 looms.
Any wiring/soldering done should always be secured next to other wires/brackets etc to minimise vibration, again MUCH less vibration and moisture inside a car as it has windows/seals to keep out moisture.
Up to you how you choose to do it different people have different ideas take what you will
 
I meant solder joints are prone to cracking from vibration. If you look at the wiring in your car it will always be crimped rather than soldered. The only soldering you will find will be on PCB's.

Also there will always be acid build up on battery terminals regardless of what you do, so its always a good idea to brush it regardless.
 
The best crimped joints then have solder applied a tiny dab between the crimp and end of wire, it is actually the corrosive nature of the flux that makes the wire weak and brittle at the point where the solder ends, hence why the solder is applied after the crimp only a tiny dab so as not to flow past the crimp, this is the best of both worlds the best conductivity and security. There is no acid build up unless your battery is venting, most these days have a small pipe from any vent leading away from the area older cars esp non sealed batteries don't have this.
 
You get corrosion problems inside the passenger compartment too, which is more pronounced in urban areas where air pollution is higher and also in areas where high humidity prevails. In my old (now dead) Buick, a plethora of electrical gremlins in the design were discovered to be caused by grounding strips becoming corroded and those were inside the passenger compartment, not outside. I've seen plenty of high-current connections inside numerous cars passenger compartments become corroded. Your airbag connections under the dash are protected by a special grease- they wouldn't do that unless it were necessary and the service manuals wouldn't mention the need for it when servicing that connector. There is more to soldering correctly than just getting a connection. Flux residue is supposed to be cleaned up afterward- a step which many people omit. You cannot reasonably compare improperly done work to a different method which is done correctly.

I speak from knowledge and experience, not just from a concept or what some engineering textbook says. U have spent much time working a a professional car and motorcycle mechanic and I have repaired many electrical systems on those, as well as having installed wiring harnesses for the same including a few of my own design. I am not a sciolist noe am I blind to seing what happens in the real world around me. If there was a problem with making an electrical connection directly to the car's battery then no car would work because all cars have such a connection right from the factory to power everything in the car. I'd think that is rather obvious :rolleyes:

You cannot successfully use reason to debate unreasonable people so there's no point in me continuing to respond to such folks in this thread. Unsubscribing :cool:

Phil
 
You're telling me what I do for a living, or did, yet you're 100% WRONG, never done it ever never been a employed car or bike mechanic sorry, you have your way and ideas I have mine, I work on airbags all the time yet to see much if any grease though, just a tip don't believe things just because they are in a manual obviously cars can get humid but it's a hell of a lot more likely with extreme temperature and moisture changes like in a engine bay, frankly I don't care where one wants to connect to but it's odd manufacturers put fuseboxes mostly inside cars!! Heavy draws coming from a battery need obviously to be connected at source, though even some of these aren't, whether an individual flux needs removing is dependent on that particular flux, some are burn through and work best not being removed as removal involves touching with a wipe or similar which can contaminate the surface, not that in this case this is a problem, on F15E's and similar it is though
 
Back
Top