Issues hardwiring dash cam to fuse box

borik said:
sudden significant voltage drop, I think.
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mac said:
You should read between about 11 and 14 volts DC at your tap if the connections are good. If is is, then you should measure 5v DC on the connector to your camera (after the voltage regulator).
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Thanks! I appreciate the help. I'll give it a try tomorrow afternoon and see what I get.
 
Gregorich said:
Thanks! I appreciate the help. I'll give it a try tomorrow afternoon and see what I get.
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the power supply you're using has a cutoff feature which activates at 11.6v, if it's dropping below that then you are going to see it cut off at times
 
mac said:
You should read between about 11 and 14 volts DC at your tap if the connections are good. If is is, then you should measure 5v DC on the connector to your camera (after the voltage regulator).
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To make sure I'm doing it right, what setting on the multimeter should I be getting and where should I be applying the black and red prongs? Sorry for the dumb question, I'm not very experienced with them.
 
I did some testing and I actually found an empty fuse slot that has power, so I used only that with the fuse tap and the 2a fuse. The slot had power, but once I put the tap and fuse in I couldn't get any reading. Would that mean either the tap or the power supply is bad?
 
Set your multimeter to Voltage and the next higher value above 12V.

Red probe on metal part of the fuse.

Black probe on a bare metal part of the car's chassis - a bolt that screws into metal or unpainted metal such as the wheel well or under chassis.

A powered fuse slot will read 12V. A slot without power will read 0V.
 
Thanks! I checked and found a powered fuse slot that wasn't in use, but it still failed to power the camera.

I've got everything connected, but what's the best way to specifically check the power of the power supply? I can always cut off the connection and start again since I've got a friend who said he could solder them together rather than using a butt connector.
 
I suggest tossing the EnjoyGadgets kit and use the fuse tap with a loose 12V socket and the provided cord secured with nylon ties. Extend the socket's ground directly to the chassis and avoid piggybacking on other ground wires. Then check the power across the socket under all operating conditions. If the circuit you're using doesn't give you desired results with vehicle operation, switch to another. This powers and protects the unit as intended by the manufacturer. I've had two units running this way for the past three and four years.
 
throrope said:
I suggest tossing the EnjoyGadgets kit and use the fuse tap with a loose 12V socket and the provided cord secured with nylon ties. Extend the socket's ground directly to the chassis and avoid piggybacking on other ground wires. Then check the power across the socket under all operating conditions. If the circuit you're using doesn't give you desired results with vehicle operation, switch to another. This powers and protects the unit as intended by the manufacturer. I've had two units running this way for the past three and four years.
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Do you have a link with images so I can see how this is done?
 
I plugged in a MP3 with the mini USB port to the power supply and plugged the fuse tap into the fuse box. Nothing came up, so that settles that there's an issue with the power supply. Thanks! I'm going to have a friend solder the fuse tap and power supply together rather than using the butt connector as a last ditch effort, but I'm fairly certain I'll have to get a new power supply.
 
I ended up soldering the fuse tap to the power supply and hooking it up to my fuse box. It started up, but kept kicking in and out nearly two or three times a minute. My A119s has the GPS mount, so I hooked the USB directly to the camera rather than the GPS mount. That was two days ago and I haven't had a single issue with it, so it was the GPS mount the entire time. I didn't think of it being an issue, so I'll have to reach out to Viofo to see if there's a way to fix or get a new GPS mount.
Thanks all for your help and patience!
 
Gregorich said:
I ended up soldering the fuse tap to the power supply and hooking it up to my fuse box. It started up, but kept kicking in and out nearly two or three times a minute. My A119s has the GPS mount, so I hooked the USB directly to the camera rather than the GPS mount. That was two days ago and I haven't had a single issue with it, so it was the GPS mount the entire time. I didn't think of it being an issue, so I'll have to reach out to Viofo to see if there's a way to fix or get a new GPS mount.
Thanks all for your help and patience!
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is yours a V1 or V2 camera? check the serial number on the camera to see which you have
 
jokiin said:
is yours a V1 or V2 camera? check the serial number on the camera to see which you have
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How can you tell? I've got the serial number, but it doesn't specifically say V1 or V2.
 
Gregorich said:
How can you tell? I've got the serial number, but it doesn't specifically say V1 or V2.
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if there's no V2 in the serial number it's a V1, the connector can be a bit troublesome on those, better to connect power via the camera rather than the mount
 
jokiin said:
if there's no V2 in the serial number it's a V1, the connector can be a bit troublesome on those, better to connect power via the camera rather than the mount
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There was no V2 in the serial number, so it's definitely the V1 then. That explains why I was having so many connection issues.
I'm guessing the GPS mount won't work if the power supply's run from the camera rather than the mount, right? I'm just wondering what to do since I paid a little extra specifically for the mount.
 
Gregorich said:
There was no V2 in the serial number, so it's definitely the V1 then. That explains why I was having so many connection issues.
I'm guessing the GPS mount won't work if the power supply's run from the camera rather than the mount, right? I'm just wondering what to do since I paid a little extra specifically for the mount.
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GPS will still work.
 
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