Replacing Li-Po battery 3.7V 300mAh, 450mAh Tiesfong B40 / A118 / AE-CC30

in theory it should be OK. they're both 1s lipo batteries so they should have the same upper and lower voltage limits (4.2 - 3.3v) so it shouldn't hurt to have a second safety device in place. only thing i can think of is the board already on the battery may also have some sort of thermal protection which may prevent it from charging or even discharging if it's too hot. of course that's a good safety feature, but could potentially prevent proper operation in a hot car. no way to know, unfortunately, unless you can open up the battery wrapping and find out what chips are on the board and then find out what they do.
 
I have soldered it, it seems to be OK, now I have to test it in real conditions of temperature.
Thanks for help.
 
Hi,
sorry for digging this old thread out - but my A118 (without GPS), who served me years without problems, started losing time&date, and permanently shows the low-battery icon. Due to the Date-loss, it does not overwrite older files anymore, hence recording nothing except I enter an empty SD-Card. Googling the issue - it looks like the battery's done, searching for solutions I found this thread:

Have some questions:
a) as batterys can no longer be shipped from china to europe - where can i get a battery (preferably in Switzerland or Germany) that would be a good replacement?
b) how to replace the board on the battery, if it comes with two wires instead of 3? (what's that yellow band over the battery, do I need to seal the battery in after soldering the new board to it?
c) ...could the A118 be retrofitted with a capacitator? I think behind the car's windshield, a capacitator would be better suited than a battery (if yes - which modifications would be necessary?)

Thanks for your help & advice!
 
sorry, i have no advice on shipping/obtaining lipos in europe, but maybe @niko would be able to point you in the right direction.

the yellow tape is just an insulator to make sure the battery doesn't short on anything.

can't be fitted with a capacitor because it would continue to lose time/date. the A118C has an additional RTC battery (looks like a small watch battery) on the main board to keep time/date.

that said, you CAN install the A118C firmware on the A118 so that it will shut down as soon as power is cut (instead of waiting 5 seconds), so that the last file is more likely to be saved now that your battery is failing.
 
Most and maybe all Chinese stores no longer air-ship Lithium batteries of any kind to many places. One work-around is that the rules do allow shipment if the battery is installed in a device, so some Chinese stores now send batteries in a plastic box "device". It is my understanding that many European countries will allow ground shipment, so I'd recommend contacting the store and inquiring directly- a route may exist to where you are. Also check to see if the company has a European warehouse or store. Often they will have different availability of things like this, when the Chinese main store website disallows it. Or you may be able to order through a locally licensed electronics store or repair shop.

The yellow tape is "Kapton"- it is a heat resistant and abrasion resistant tape which you really need to keep intact, but if you can't then apply it and cover that with electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing. Or buy a small roll of the Kapton tape and DIY. It is pricey though.

Phil
 
Hi to all.
My A118 is purchased 11/12/2014 and just recently ceased to keep the date / time when idle for more than 5 days. And earlier and 2 weeks kept.
Disassembled my battery: ZJ 402535P 3.7V 300mAh 201409, 3 pin, 10kOm control pin. 37 * 26 * 5 mm

I received my new battery 042535Z 3.7V and 500mAh type (in fact, the dimensions are one-on-one with the original and the capacity will be 300-400mAh).
For 79 UAH (2.8 $) + 40 UAH delivery (1.42 $).
With a 2 pin controller, although there is a pad for the third wire. I did not remove the adhesive tape on the new one to check the resistance between the minus and the control. Just soldered two wires of a new battery to the region and began tests.
Everything works correctly.

It is necessary to unsolder the third control wire to measure the resistance.

So, yesterday I tested the connection of a new battery with only two wires + -.
The registrar's charge did not issue a charge - the voltage was 3.7x volts and did not grow with time.
When disconnecting the mini usb cable, the battery held for less than a minute and then the device turned off.

Today:

I measured the resistance on the recorder board - within 13.x ohms, it means that the third wire must be connected to something exactly ... And without the third wire, the recorder's board does not charge on the battery.

I opened the insulation of a new battery, measured the resistance on the third contact - the same 10 kOhm as the native battery.
I soldered the third wire, connected the charging and began to monitor the voltage at the terminals of the battery itself.
The voltage began to rise from 3.7x volts to 3.84 volts in 30 minutes, then after another time it rose to 3.95 volts.

The battery is fully charged at 4.12-4.13 volts. At the same time there were all 3 divisions of the battery charge.
When discharging and recording, the battery lasted 21 minutes and turned off correctly.
 
Added photo.
 

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Second discharge after full charge: 32 minutes when recording.
 
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