SG9663DR update

I have a metal box for the 2x RC’s in my glove compartment. Box is lined with 3M EMF material, since the RC’s like to affect my key fob signal [emoji23].

Any problems with the SoCal heat? I'd think a closed box would get rather hot inside even if it wasn't completely sealed.

Phil
 
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Good things come to those who,,,, patiently wait. :giggle:
 
Way to shut the RF up on those puppies :cool:

Haha I tried so many methods, starting with those tin boxes you get with holiday cookies/candies LOLLLLLLL.

It looked weird having holiday boxes with half-assed cable holes etc. So I upgraded to a fancier route.

I can now use my key fob within ~20ft or so. Used to have to place the fob right next to the receivers on the doors/trunk... would press unlock on handle repeatedly. Prob looked like I was stealing the car...


Any problems with the SoCal heat? I'd think a closed box would get rather hot inside even if it wasn't completely sealed.

Phil

I haven’t had a single problem with the overheating. On a hot day, I would notice the metal box is warm when I checked it. Placing them in the glove compartment kept the units away from the sun and also the rapidly climbing ambient temps in the cabin of my car. Black on black, with 35% Pinnacle tint except on front. Also, I put heat shielding material (those welding blankets, in my glove compartment. The metal box has a gap, the size of two M3.5 screw nuts stacked haha.

My car during the summer causes DR750S, F800 Pro, etc to shutdown in parking mode. Came back to car a few times and used laser thermometer. I’ve seen 180F on the dashcam housing (side away from sun).

I’ll throw a wired thermostat in there when I get the chance :)



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Geez... been waiting for 1.5 years already. Is it getting released in 2018 or January 2019?
 
SG9663DC took more than 18 months before release also, we just didn't talk about it too much before release so the development may have seemed shorter, there's a lot of stuff that has to happen before release of any new product
 
there's a lot of stuff that has to happen before release of any new product

I wish everyone thought like this. It seems like some other companies don't know the difference between beta-testers and retail customers :(

Phil
 
Yeah, though most products appear to work or actually do work when launched, then there still are varying degrees or issues with them.
The SG cameras always seem to be technically in order, and they generally catch up on image related tweaks fast, others are so - so and you get a feeling that it never fulfill its potential.
SG at least acknowledge issues mentioned and come up with a plan for the problem to be nullified, others at best you just get a thank you for your message, and then silence.
 
I wish everyone thought like this. It seems like some other companies don't know the difference between beta-testers and retail customers :(

Phil

yeah we don't charge our beta testers for product like some brands seem to do :p

the DR is delayed a bit further as we're making some improvements still with connectors which is important, when you start moving cameras away from mainboards connectivity and stability becomes even more important
 
Looking forward to it, my wallet is ready!
yeah we don't charge our beta testers for product like some brands seem to do [emoji14]

the DR is delayed a bit further as we're making some improvements still with connectors which is important, when you start moving cameras away from mainboards connectivity and stability becomes even more important

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
yeah we don't charge our beta testers for product like some brands seem to do :p

the DR is delayed a bit further as we're making some improvements still with connectors which is important, when you start moving cameras away from mainboards connectivity and stability becomes even more important
Yes, please do NOT use mini/micro USB ports on the main unit, those connectors are not meant for such vibration environment and without strain relief, they are notorious for breaking and when you attach long cables to a small box and the user tries to tuck it away, you'll end up with broken connectors. Better to use USB-A or similar.
 
I wish everyone thought like this. It seems like some other companies don't know the difference between beta-testers and retail customers :(

Phil
Yeah, Microsoft seems to be doing this lately. I'm pretty sure we're not the only company taking a serious look at Linux lately.
 
Inbuilt battery pack would be useful , say for 4 hours, to enable parking mode without hard wiring ? I do that now with battery pack in car parks on Mobius 1.
 
Your car has a big battery in it. And you can get battery packs if you like. I absolutely prefer my cameras with capacitors vs batteries.
 
Your car has a big battery in it. And you can get battery packs if you like. I absolutely prefer my cameras with capacitors vs batteries.
Ughhh, Teslas do NOT have a big 12V battery, plus there is NO power in parking mode, so you need your own battery for parking mode!
 
Ughhh, Teslas do NOT have a big 12V battery, plus there is NO power in parking mode, so you need your own battery for parking mode!
How big is the 12v battery, and which model do you have? The model S I saw on the Rich Rebuilds YouTube channel had what looked like a pretty normal sized 12v battery to me. My wife's 2008 Toyota Highlander hybrid (which has a 3.3L v6) has a small 12v battery - the same size used in lots of much smaller cars, including the Honda Civic (group 51). Meanwhile the non-hybrid Highlander v6 (3.5L) uses a much larger group 24 battery. I don't have any problems running the dashcam in parking mode from that little group 51 battery in her car, because I have a battery drain preventer device that cuts power to the camera if the battery drops below 12.2v. The car would usually start if it got down to 12.0v, but not always, even though the engine doesn't always start the moment you press the power button. Besides, when it does start the engine, it uses the traction battery and some clutches in the hybrid system for that - there is no conventional starter motor on a Toyota hybrid.

Anyway, I'm sure you could find a circuit to tap into to take power from the 12v battery while parked in a Tesla - they aren't new, and people have had dashcams in them for a while, so I'm sure it's been done before. The traction battery could probably recharge the 12v battery 100 times and only lose a couple miles of range, so I wouldn't worry about it if it was my car.
 
How big is the 12v battery, and which model do you have? The model S I saw on the Rich Rebuilds YouTube channel had what looked like a pretty normal sized 12v battery to me. My wife's 2008 Toyota Highlander hybrid (which has a 3.3L v6) has a small 12v battery - the same size used in lots of much smaller cars, including the Honda Civic (group 51). Meanwhile the non-hybrid Highlander v6 (3.5L) uses a much larger group 24 battery. I don't have any problems running the dashcam in parking mode from that little group 51 battery in her car, because I have a battery drain preventer device that cuts power to the camera if the battery drops below 12.2v. The car would usually start if it got down to 12.0v, but not always, even though the engine doesn't always start the moment you press the power button. Besides, when it does start the engine, it uses the traction battery and some clutches in the hybrid system for that - there is no conventional starter motor on a Toyota hybrid.

Anyway, I'm sure you could find a circuit to tap into to take power from the 12v battery while parked in a Tesla - they aren't new, and people have had dashcams in them for a while, so I'm sure it's been done before. The traction battery could probably recharge the 12v battery 100 times and only lose a couple miles of range, so I wouldn't worry about it if it was my car.

You are misinformed.

#1. Model 3 has a 12V 45Ah battery, so it's 30-50% of a regular sedan size, people have tried to run dashcams off it directly in parking mode but sooner rather than later found that they needed their battery replaced because it'd die. Not sure if it's the battery or the way Tesla recharges the battery when something else draws power from it other than Tesla OEM.
#2. There are NO power circuits or fuse panels to tap into. You'd need to pull directly from the battery behind the firewall, which is no easy task.
#3. People running dashcams on Teslas do NOT run them in parking mode, and if they do, they're using external battery pack solutions that work in parking mode.
 
You are misinformed.

#1. Model 3 has a 12V 45Ah battery, so it's 30-50% of a regular sedan size, people have tried to run dashcams off it directly in parking mode but sooner rather than later found that they needed their battery replaced because it'd die. Not sure if it's the battery or the way Tesla recharges the battery when something else draws power from it other than Tesla OEM.
#2. There are NO power circuits or fuse panels to tap into. You'd need to pull directly from the battery behind the firewall, which is no easy task.
#3. People running dashcams on Teslas do NOT run them in parking mode, and if they do, they're using external battery pack solutions that work in parking mode.

i wasn't trying to say you're wrong, just that considering how many other off-the-shelf parts they used to get the model S built quicker (ie: mercedes switches on the column), it would make sense to use a battery that's readily available. i figured they would continue to do some of the same for the model 3 to drive its cost down, and to make it easier to service.

that said, i had to search a bit, but i finally found a chart that lists the actual Ah rating of a normal car battery: http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/CanadianTire/BatteriesSpecSheet_Automotive15314_ENpdf

according to that, a typical group 51 battery can range from 35-45 Ah capacity. physically, the group 51 is indeed 30-50% smaller than a "typical" car battery. conveniently, that chart also lists physical dimensions in inches. FYI - the only difference between a 51 and a 51R is that the polarity is swapped so that (-) is on the left for one of them, and it's on the right for the other. the group 24 i mentioned is rated around 70Ah, which just happens to align almost perfectly with your stated 30-50% size difference.

also on that list is the mazda miata, which had its own custom battery from 1989-2006 (it vented externally since it was mounted in the trunk) and is even smaller than the group 51, and has a measly 26Ah rating, yet people run low current stuff from those while parked as well. i didn't have much more than just a stereo and clock in my 97 miata, but the only time i ever had a dead battery was when i left my lights on by mistake. and then i had to learn how to push-start a car. that was real fun...

another thing is that for things to work while the car is parked (ie: remote door locks) it has to get power from somewhere, and that's typically the 12v system. no, i haven't seen a wiring diagram for a tesla yet (has anyone who doesn't work at tesla?), but it wouldn't make sense to keep the inverters powered up and use up range from the traction battery just to listen for door lock signals or to store settings in nvram (radio presets, wifi settings, whatever). obviously i could be way wrong, but then why would they even need the 12v battery at all? they could just use a simple step down transformer and sip from the traction battery to power any 12v systems (12v accessory sockets, radio, wiper motor, whatever). but based on what i've seen in toyota hybrids, the 12v system is pretty much completely independant of the 300v hybrid system - it just uses the inverter to step down to 12v to run those systems when the car is on, since there's no alternator, and you'll still need those 12v items while the engine is stopped.

no, it's not always easy to run wires through the firewall, but if the manufacturer did it, then so can anyone else. just depends on how much you're willing to take stuff apart, or to just poke holes in existing wiring grommets to sneak your wires alongside factory stuff. when i was a mechanic, i installed a LOT of alarms, stereo systems, DVDs (headrest and overhead), exterior lighting, etc... i've had to drill through plenty of metal to run wires, so it doesn't scare me anymore.

i'm not trying to argue. just saying that nothing is impossible. it might not be EASY - definitely can't argue that, but impossible is a strong word.
 
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