piggyback fuses keep blowing (cellink pro batteries)

[egonvdv]

I have TWO cellink pro’s in my car and they’ve always performed without fail (since 2017).

These batteries were in me E-CLASS, with which I had an accident and car was totalled.

So for over 6 months the batteries were at my house without being charged and this “killed” the capacity somewhat.

But the batteries still work in my NEW car (also an E-class), albeit with lower capacity .

However, the fuses on BOTH batteries keep blowing and I have no idea why .
(once, both even even started to melt before blowing!)

They are installed exactly in the same way as my previous car:
piggybacked on the cigar lighter fuse, with 15 amp fuses.
The celllink pro can be set to 10/12 /15 amp and I always have it on 12.

The ONLY difference with my old & new car is that I have a hybrid now and often drive pure electric (only on battery).

Could this have something to do with it ?

Or did the old batteries get defective and for some reason draw too much power ?

 

[LateralNW]

I have TWO cellink pro’s in my car and they’ve always performed without fail (since 2017).

These batteries were in me E-CLASS, with which I had an accident and car was totalled.

So for over 6 months the batteries were at my house without being charged and this “killed” the capacity somewhat.

But the batteries still work in my NEW car (also an E-class), albeit with lower capacity .

However, the fuses on BOTH batteries keep blowing and I have no idea why .
(once, both even even started to melt before blowing!)

They are installed exactly in the same way as my previous car:
piggybacked on the cigar lighter fuse, with 15 amp fuses.
The celllink pro can be set to 10/12 /15 amp and I always have it on 12.

The ONLY difference with my old & new car is that I have a hybrid now and often drive pure electric (only on battery).

Could this have something to do with it ?

Or did the old batteries get defective and for some reason draw too much power ?

Stating the obvious but if a fuse is blowing it means the circuit is drawing more current and blowing is protecting your cars wiring and potential for fire.

If the capacity has dropped it may be due to cell damage creating a low resistance that could cause greater current draw.

If you have a new car I would spoil it with new cellink pro's.

You might be able to get the old ones checked by them or a technician.

Others on this site may be able to offer other solutions.

 

[egonvdv]

I guess you are right since NOTHING changed between my old & new car .

i tested the fuses themselves and they have 12.5v engine off & 14.5v engine on, so all good there

I had already ordered new batteries since the cellink only last 24hrs now (should be 52hrs) and will recycle the old ones .

As cellink no longer makes the PRO's, I decided to go with: POWER-CORE UK

2x main battery + 2x extended battery - this gives me 4.6 days on EACH of my dual cams (i have 2 in my car, so 4 cams in total)

see also : DASHCAM FORUM BATTERIES

so far I'm very impressed by them. they are definitely one of the cheaper ones on the marked, especially considering the autonomy, and very well built

 

[Nigel]

i tested the fuses themselves and they have 12.5v engine off & 14.5v engine on, so all good there

What about when the battery is charging from empty?

If you take 12 Amps from a fuse, there will almost certainly be a voltage drop along the cables, so it is very unlikely that you will get 14.5 Volts at the fuse while charging at maximum current. It is quite possible that there was an extra volt of voltage drop through the wiring on your old car, thus the battery is able to take more Amps when it is in your new car.

I'm not sure how the charging current is regulated in these batteries and how good that regulation is, anyone know?

 

[egonvdv]

i won't hook them up again, don't want to take the risk .
fuses on both batteries blew multiple times so i had enough.
(as stated above, at one point both fuses in the piggyback melted before eventually blowing)
because it happens with both batteries, i think you are right: they are damaged & this creates the "overheating"
with the new ones i have no problems at all and the fuses don't even feel hot when touching