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Yes - it worked for me too. It was a horrid noise - made me jump!

Is it the Cellink B that beeps or your dashcam? I ask, because I was getting the same (well, more of a sqwark). My kid said it was coming from the dashcam (Blackvue) and that made sense as I think I was triggering the GShock sensor (event recording). There's a setting to turn off certain...

I put mine in the cubby box in the centre console behind the gear stick, with velcro to stop it rattling around. This is on a Hyundai Tucson. When the lid is closed, there's 1/8" gap for tthe wires to come out and a couple of stickly cable clips down the side of the console next to the...

OK - been under test for a few days - on the 5A setting, the input plug runs warm but never hot, even after a 30 minute drive. So I guess that's OK. The Cellink B overall does the job. It's big and bulky and not cheap, but I like the fact it's LiFePO (safer than LiIon) and has lots of...

Oh I agree totally. The motorbike 12V socket is a much better design. I'm sure it's *probably* OK at 5A as Cellink have a decent reputation (and I was trying to be clever setting it at 7.5A) - but I'd like some longer tests whilst I have the car and not the wife, which means Sunday...

I just installed my Cellink B today. I tried it at the 7.5A setting as my Hyundai Tucson has 12V aux power sockets rated at 180W, so 15A. I know the instructions say 5A on a plug, but I assumed that was to cope with the worst car - and the wire gauge was the same for both plug and hardwire cable...

Thank you both. It's a Blackvue DR650S so no screen. Because it's shaped like a bog roll, I have to have >4cm in the swept area to get the lens in the swept area, hence the question "what if you can't see it" :)

Point taken - but I really want to be 100% sure it's road legal. If it won't pass a test, I'd be unhappy about its position :)

MOT Special Notice 2-2014 states: "Where any damage or obstruction does not impair the driver’s view of the road, the vehicle should pass. If it only affects the driver’s view of the sky or the bonnet then this is not to be considered a reason for rejection. This is a general assessment of...

Ha! Got it... The MINI has a massive flashing red LED on top of the steering column that pulsates all the time the car is locked. I put a black laptop sleeve over it and it's recording nothing now, except genuine motion. That's with sensitivity set to quite high (40+). D'oh!

Not as far as I know. It's supposed to watch all the time, but only write to card if "something" happens.

Wow - that's low! OK - I'll give it a try and see what gives. Thank you sir!

Hi, I have just installed a DR650GW-2CH with permanent power via a Power Magic Pro. I though it was only supposed to record to SD if there was either a shock or motion? Just having looked, I have files all night long. This is a quiet area and no obvious visual stimulus in the few that I just...

EDIT - 3rd Nov 2016 =============== It's giving me jip - so looks like all you guys were right. Lots of rebooting and really slow WIFI transfers. =============== SanDisk Ultra 128 GB SDXC Class 10 seems to be working fine for me. It's slow pulling data off via WIFI but I am not sure that's...

It would also be handy if Blackvue could maybe start a database of recommended circuits. My pro installer (who did a 1st class job of taking trim off and routing the cables through all the grommits and cableways) did not know. All he knew was "BMWs are a PITA". But it is a solvable problem...

4 taps: Because if you include them with the device, you do not know if the customer will need to use 2 full size, 2 mini blades or one of each. Hence you need to include 4 if you are going to do that at all. Obviously the customer ends up using 2 and has 2 spare.

Well, technically they'd have to include 4 taps: 2 mini-blades, and 2 normal blades. I have one of each. But yes, the instructions are appalling. Especially as Joe Random might end up picking the supply side leg of the fuse, which would leave you at risk of a red hot wire surrounded by plastic!!!

I looked at it - but the run time is poor. The capacity is very limited. So I went to some trouble to locate a better source of permanent power from my car (tricky, it's BWM designed!).

This is not a question, but I thought it would be useful as an easy to search for post. The answer is: Permanent Power: Use the ODB (5A) fuse. That's F27 on my MINI but that might vary. This circuit remains live for > 12 hours under my tests, so safe to presume it is truly a permanent live...

And it is. Total success. Now just to neaten it up, I'll see if I can locate a pure IGN/ACC fuse instead of the radio one with its weird power modes...