12v socket fed from an ignition live - Ford Fiesta

azibux1

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Hi all,

I'm looking at installing a 12v socket that is fed from an ignition live, rather than the original socket which is a constant live.

What's the best way to do this?

I've read that the only way to do this, without cutting into original cabling, is to get an "add a circuit" piggy back fuse and use it to replace the fuse of an 'item' that is only on when the ignition is on?

Would it then be okay to still run that original item and the 12v socket from the same feed?

Any help would be appreciated please

Thanks in advance
 
Depends what the item is. No point adding more load to a circuit that is already under load but most cams only draw around 1A.
Some fuseboards have loads of empty slots to account for different 'spec'. If you put a test probe on one side you'll read a voltage but there'll be no wires out the back of the other side, you could use one of these spare slots
 
I agree, find and empty ignition live location in your fuse box and wire to that. Please don't follow the "advice" on another thread about wrapping the wire around the leg of a fuse. Do the job properly with proper crimped on terminals.

Frank
 
Thanks guys

I have the skill / tools (other than a multimeter) to do the job properly, providing I know which connections to make, which you've now cleared up

So basically I should look in my fuse box diagram for an optional extra that I don't have fitted, and it will most likely have power going to that fuse bay?

I then just get an 'add a circuit' fuse piggback type stlyle fuse, and connect my positive to that and run a negative to a suitable earth point?

I will have a look tomorrow to see if I have one of these spare fuse bays that is ignition live
 
So basically I should look in my fuse box diagram for an optional extra that I don't have fitted, and it will most likely have power going to that fuse bay?

I then just get an 'add a circuit' fuse piggback type stlyle fuse, and connect my positive to that and run a negative to a suitable earth point?
No! no piggyback anything, find a spare spade connector on your fuse box - for instance, my van has a fuse for heated rear windows which I don't have, and connect directly to it with a proper crimped on female spade terminal.

Frank
 
No! no piggyback anything, find a spare spade connector on your fuse box - for instance, my van has a fuse for heated rear windows which I don't have, and connect directly to it with a proper crimped on female spade terminal.

Frank
Haha sorry, I thought the piggback fuse would do the job, of getting a nice crimped connection from the blank fuse box location, wasn't actually going to use it for piggybacking onto an existing fuse, if that makes sense

Will have a look at the fuse box tomorrow :)
 
AZ,
My install is posted elsewhere in the forum but I can figure out how to link to this page. Anyway, here's the text without the pics...

I've completed the Mobius install on my 2011 Ford Explorer and I am delighted. After looking at my options I decided to connect the unit to the overhead map light circuit behind aft of the mirror. I used a 12V-5V converter to tap the light circuit and it fits easily above the headliner directly behind the windshield/screen. The usb power threads through the same opening as the cables to the mirror and the rain sensor. I did install a 90 degree usb fitting on the Mobius so everything would fit without interrupting the mirror. Two notes...I too would like a smaller mount but after the install I've concluded that if it was smaller I probably could not aim the unit forward because of the slope of the windshield. And, because I connected the Mobius to the map lights the power remains on until the Battery Saver relay kicks in. That's 10 minutes and there doesn't appear to be a way to adjust the timer. So whenever the car is shut down I collect 10 minutes of video that I don't want. I'm willing to go with the present arrangement since I'm not planning on using any of the video files unless something happens. Hope for never.
 
I have two dashcams and a radar dectector on a add a circuit and plan to connect my garmin to the same circuit. The three curently run daily from a 3.5 amp fuse. I'm using loose 12v sockets with the provided adaptors that are also fuse protected. A few wraps of electric tape keeps the connection. Just plain simple!
 
I've done this in my fiesta - just used a fuse tap for the heated seats fuse. As I don't have heated seats it was free and only on when the ignition was on.
 
I've done this in my fiesta - just used a fuse tap for the heated seats fuse. As I don't have heated seats it was free and only on when the ignition was on.
Is this in a Mk6 or Mk7?

Do you know which fuse it was please? As I also don't have heated seats
 
I agree, find and empty ignition live location in your fuse box and wire to that. Please don't follow the "advice" on another thread about wrapping the wire around the leg of a fuse. Do the job properly with proper crimped on terminals.

Frank
And by 'fuse' you mean Paperclip, tinfoil or nail? :D
 
And by 'fuse' you mean Paperclip, tinfoil or nail? :D

Depends what's needed of course

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I've done this with a 2008 Fiesta. I actually had a spare fuse slot, I think it was something like number 11. The icon was of a caravan type thing.
 
I've done this with a 2008 Fiesta. I actually had a spare fuse slot, I think it was something like number 11. The icon was of a caravan type thing.
Thanks I'll definitely have a look for that, when I looked briefly, all (or some) of the empty fuse bays only had a pin / wire visible at the bottom (or top, can't remember), compared to the other bays which are in use which all have 2 wires / pins visible... I assume this is normal since the bay is not currently used?
 
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