2 dashcams + 1 hardwire kit?

[zeitgeb3r]

I'm a noob to electrical/electronics. I only know how to turn on the light switch.

I'm planning on buying 2 x Mini 0806 dash cam (1 for front, 1 for rear), and have it wired by an auto-electrician.

Do I need 2 hardwire kits like this

or would 1 suffice?

 

[jokiin]

you'd need two

 

[map]

Or buy one with two usb outlets.

 

[jokiin]

Or buy one with two usb outlets.

can't say I've seen that, two separate kits would be more practical from an installation perspective

 

[Street Guardian USA]

I have a customer that bought two SGZC12RC (aka X1) 's and will be placing both main DVR units in the front of the car. (long microUSB to the remote camera in the rear)
Would/Should 1 MotoSafe PANOBDP hardwire kit be suitable in this situation?

I see where you're coming from if you use two standard dashcam units that don't have remote lens wires as described above. (easier having two then)

 

[jokiin]

I'm not sure what load those are capable of, given the cameras you're using are very low power consumption though I suspect one would be fine

 

[map]

can't say I've seen that, two separate kits would be more practical from an installation perspective

There is one I've been contemplating buying on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111423739615
I don't have anywhere I could put a second unit in the back of my car, as it has no interior panels. So in my case this seems like a good solution.

 

[jokiin]

There is one I've been contemplating buying on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111423739615
I don't have anywhere I could put a second unit in the back of my car, as it has no interior panels. So in my case this seems like a good solution.

from an install perspective that doesn't really make much difference, the one you looked at originally has the power supply a few meters from the camera, it's only the USB cable you're running to the camera

 

[Nigel]

If you use a splitter cable like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B00NIGHB46
Then it will work fine, however you would also need an extension cable to reach the rear and by the time you add up the costs I suspect you might as well buy two adaptors and let the electrician use normal cheap 12v cable to provide the extension.

In my own car I have one adaptor with an extra micro USB extension cable soldered inside in parallel with the standard one to power mini 0806 and mini 0803 but an auto electrician would probably refuse to do that.

The camera uses under 0.5A, most of these adaptors provide 1.5A so powering two cameras is well within their capabilities.

 

[map]

from an install perspective that doesn't really make much difference, the one you looked at originally has the power supply a few meters from the camera, it's only the USB cable you're running to the camera

I understand what you are saying, but with this type I only have one box under the dash, and only splice into one circuit.

The only benefit I can really see from using two single units is that if one dies while driving, I don't loose both cameras, but since I have a couple of lighter adapters in the glovebox it's not really an issue.

 

[jokiin]

I understand what you are saying, but with this type I only have one box under the dash, and only splice into one circuit.
.

they can still be joined to the one circuit

 

[Nigel]

There is one I've been contemplating buying on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111423739615
I don't have anywhere I could put a second unit in the back of my car, as it has no interior panels. So in my case this seems like a good solution.

That one appears to have standard USB connectors so you would also need two USB to micro USB extension cables - again, add up the costs.

 

[map]

they can still be joined to the one circuit

True, I just prefer the idea of a single box.

That one appears to have standard USB connectors so you would also need two USB to micro USB extension cables - again, add up the costs.

I haven't actually worked costs out, but as I already have the front cable, I can't imagine it would be any dearer to buy one twin socket hardwire unit and a 5m cable, versus buying two single socket hardwire units.

I don't even have two cams yet, but if I buy a C lens mobius, I'll buy the one I linked and let people know how I feel about it once its installed.

 

[reverend]

What about the Lukas LK290 Type C with the two cigar lighter connectors as that's pretty generic?

You'd have better battery cut off settings than with the cheaper kits which you can tweak to the time of year and you could reuse it with any dashcam should you change down the road and not have micro USB connectors.

 

[Iulian]

I've been using this setup for the last 5 months, no complaints so far.

• 12 to 5v step-down, 2 usb outputs. (link)
• fuse tap / add-a-circuit with a 3A fuse
• two 15ft gold plated shielded usb cables (added my own ferrite beads) (link)

I found an empty slot in my fuse box that would normally take a 7.5A fuse.

 

[throrope]

I suggest using an add-a-fuse with loose 12V sockets, the cord provided with the dashcam and a few wraps of electrical tape. The cords have the manufacturer's 12-5 volt converters and fuses to operate and protect the cams as intended and the add-a-fuse connectors are a minimally invasive means of getting power without interacting with other circuits. With a simple multi-meter, you can easily find which fuse is hot with ignition or always as desired. I suggest you piggy back on a common ground screw. You will find posts and threads on this configuration with a simple search. I pushed all wires behind moldings and headliner.

 

[map]

I've been using this setup for the last 5 months, no complaints so far.

• 12 to 5v step-down, 2 usb outputs. (link)
• fuse tap / add-a-circuit with a 3A fuse
• two 15ft gold plated shielded usb cables (added my own ferrite beads) (link)

I found an empty slot in my fuse box that would normally take a 7.5A fuse.

This is how I planned on setting mine up, except without the add-a-circuit, I'll wire it directly to the back of an empty fuse slot.

 

[MANswers]

I've been using this setup for the last 5 months, no complaints so far.

• 12 to 5v step-down, 2 usb outputs. (link)
• fuse tap / add-a-circuit with a 3A fuse
• two 15ft gold plated shielded usb cables (added my own ferrite beads) (link)

I found an empty slot in my fuse box that would normally take a 7.5A fuse.

Thanks for the diagram, I am gonna take the diagram to my dashcam installer and make him do the same, though he is a pro, but looking at ur setup it makes me confident that is some seriously good setup.
I've also ordered the same cables through monoprice, i've had very good experience buying various things home theater related items from them, they are good.
Though i have ordered the fuse tap with add a circuit with a 3A fuse, but i still wanted to ask you, whats the benifit of that? is it something that is mandatory and everyone installs it, or is it something that you have installed it for precaution or better handling of power flow in the electrical circuitry.?

 

[Mandami]

3A fuse

what are other devices (warning lights, ?? ) which use this fuse ?

 

[lreynolds89]

Lulian

Is there a low voltage cut off on your 12V to 5V? I'm hoping to set a front and rear mini 0805 up and I would like them to record while the vehicle is parked for as long as possible.