It was actually a 2015 Rav 4. We did the install last weekend.
Executive summary: Finding and connecting power for the hardwire kit was the hardest part. If you want to fully hide the cables, you'll run into a problem at the rear hatch.
More detailed notes, for anyone who needs to do this & is using the 3-wire hardwire kit:
-the best ground point I could find was a nut holding some part of the dashboard's inner metal structure to the left wall (inboard of driver's door). You have to pull off the plastic cover on the lower left dash (left of knee airbag) to get to this. I also unplugged the buttons and unclipped the wiring harness on this panel, so that I could fully remove it. That got the panel out of the way while doing the install.
-your other choices for ground points are: the bolts holding the gas and brake pedal mounts to the firewall. I didn't want to mess with those.
-Good news: there is a TON of room under and inside the dash, including immediately around the fuse panel. You won't be able to get the cover back on the fuse panel, but it is no problem to plug in the piggyback fuse taps & run the wires, with room to spare.
-Bad news: The fuse panel must be accessed from directly under and is horizontal. Unless you are really tiny, you're not going to have a lot of room to get a good look at the panel. Using a mirror might help, although that introduces its own problems as all the fuse locations and text will be reversed. Also the fuses are really small. Needle nose pliers were needed to pull them.
-I used the "STOP" fuse (#19) and "Rear Wiper" fuse (I forget the number) to tap for permanent power (Red wire) and accessory power (Yellow wire), respectively. STOP always has power because, I guess, the brake lights need to work even if the car is off.
-It was pretty easy to tuck the power wires and camera cables behind trim up front, and down the sides of the cabin. We put the Camera cable just under the rubber trim around the door openings and tucked under the top edge of the B-pillar trim.
-For the hatch, we left some slack in the camera cable and used the cable clips included in the kit as supports. It doens't get pinched in the door or flop around too much.
-I looked at running the camera cable through one of the rubber boots that carries factory wiring into the interior of the hatch. The problem wasn't there, it was where the cable would come out after re-entering the cabin. The cable would have been pinched between a trim panel and the edge of the headliner panel (cabin ceiling), no matter how I ran it. Not good. That's why we opted for exposed cable, held by the self-adhesive cable clips on available plastic surfaces.
-I am so so glad I invested in a Molex hand crimp tool a few years ago. It makes BEAUTIFUL hand crimps. Some crimper is needed to crimp the bullet connectors on to the wire ends, with the 3-wire kit.
Overall: more physically painful than, but other than that no worse than, the A129 install in my 1990's sedan.