2019 Ford Focus - can't find good ACC fuse

Dadwgn

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Hi there,

Just bought an SG9663DCPRO with hardwire kit, for my 2019 Ford Focus. I wired it up and used the 'Parking Assist Control Module' fuse as the ACC piggyback, and the alarm fuse for the always on piggyback.

The camera functioned correctly, entering parking mode when the ignition is switched off. However, when I started the car I received a malfunction code about the steering, and had no power steering.

Thinking it was a bad fuse to use, I've tried virtually all others I could think of which would be linked to ignition/ACC - but being a modern car, the lights, windows and audio unit (even the wireless charger!) can all function without ignition. There is no cigarette lighter fuse under the glovebox, I believe it is in the engine which I want to avoid using if possible.

Any suggestions on what I can do?
 

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jokiin

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reply from the tech below

This is a new 2020 model, changed over around 4th quarter of 2019.

To confirm with customer to make sure this is a Ford Focus Mk4.

The Mk4 is CANBUS car so do not use any module fuse location because car computer wakes up every now and then. And the car is drive by wire and steering by wire.

For +12V: Fuse 24 - SPARE

For +Acc: Fuse 17 Voice Control/Audio Unit

As always ask him to use LED test probe or multimeter to test the fuse locations to make sure functions are correct.
 
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Dadwgn

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Thanks jokiin,

Yes it is the Mk4 Focus (local designation is 'SA' Focus) however this was introduced in Australia in late 2018 (mine is an early 2019 build). It is an ST-Line Wagon.

I appreciate the help from the tech, though I don't quite understand the part about being CANBUS and 'do not use any module fuse location' - can I still use the piggyback method as supplied, just on the fuses he advised?

I'm pretty sure I tested fuse 17 as the ACC and it seemed to provide constant power (as the radio can be switched on without the key), but I'll try again and make sure to do a full power-up and power-down of the car. Will check with a multimeter too and report back tomorrow.

Thanks!
 

kamkar1

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Installing a camera in my friends "older" Mercedes, i also ended up using a fuse, that i had deemed not usable several times in the 1 hour or so i messed with it ( using camera and multi meter )
New cars sure do seem to cough up some extra worries for the DIY people of the world, i am very glad my own 2012 car are so cheap it have no smarts at all.
 

jokiin

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CAN-BUS systems have circuits controlled by the ECU

also when you check ACC fuses they may be active for a certain time after key off or until you lock the doors, common on a lot of Ford vehicles, for those we generally put the windows down and lock the car (or stay inside and do it) and check with the multimeter
 

kamkar1

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yeah i think that's also what happened for me in the Mercedes ( fuses in the back R side of the estate )
CUZ pretty much all fuses was on all the time, but then it suddenly changed.
 
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Dadwgn

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Morning all,

Just circling back on this. I joined a few Focus Mk4 owners groups on Facebook and they all used Fuse 3 with success (for the ACC), so I tried again out of desperation and amazingly, no issues with the power steering! Only thing I changed was using be spare fuse (24) for constant power, rather than the alarm.

Been on a few test drives now and the camera is functioning perfectly, really happy with both daytime and nighttime footage. Car is back to normal now too, except that DAB radio is significantly worse (I now don't have reception in our driveway for example).

I run the rear camera cabling down the passenger A pillar, along the lower sill (didn't want to go near airbags), up the side of the rear seat and then under the lower rear window trim (between C and D pillar) until the very back where it goes into the roof lining - so generally avoiding the antenna which is a sharkfin located in the centre rear of the roof.

Recommendation looking at forums seems to be to add a clip on ferrite to the rear camera cable, unless there are any other recommendations?
 

jokiin

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ferrite cores might help, ideally need one front and rear, DAB is frustrating at times as it's digital it becomes all or nothing, unlike FM where signal gradually gets lower, once DAB gets any interference it just drops out, our geography doesn't work well for DAB either which further complicates things
 
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