A129 3-wire kit

A phone call to your dealer's service department will get you an answer on battery type. Car batteries are not designed for long low-current discharge use such as running a a cam while parking, but can handle this to some degree. But even if you lose 20% of a batteries lifespan, you're still talking well less than a dollar per day to cover that in any car. Doing the math for my own large lead-acid battery it came close to $0.25 per day which is cheap for the protection I get from my cams so I don't worry about it ;)

Phil
 
So is that considered a "cheap maintenance-free" battery? And that I need to set the threshold to 12.2V?
 
it's not maintenance free, it's a lead acid battery, if the car is not old it will last a while still, 12.2v should be ok depending how much you drive
 
it's not maintenance free, it's a lead acid battery, if the car is not old it will last a while still, 12.2v should be ok depending how much you drive

My car is just 15 months old.

Well, I'm just basing my responses on @Nigel's post here. I though there is a maintenance free SLA battery.

I drive on an average of 1 hour/day during weekdays and maybe 2 hours/day during weekends. Where is 12.4V used?
 
Ok. How about 12.0, is it too much for my battery?
How many hours recording do you get from 12.2?

If you use 12.0 and the voltage regularly goes down to 12.0 then you will shorten the life of the battery significantly, but it will still work OK until it dies, then you can replace it with a better battery, maybe an AGM battery that will be happy with 11.8v and will still give you 5 years life. If you only intend to keep the car for 1 more year then your current battery will probably last that long on 12.0.
 
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How many hours recording do you get from 12.2?

If you use 12.0 and the voltage regularly goes down to 12.0 then you will shorten the life of the battery significantly, but it will still work OK until it dies, then you can replace it with a better battery, maybe an AGM battery that will be happy with 11.8v and will still give you 5 years life. If you only intend to keep the car for 1 more year then your current battery will probably last that long on 12.0.
I still don't have the numbers because I've yet to install the whole thing this weekend. All I have now is the hardwire kit installed and ready to be routed but I'll have a professional do the routing for me.

So I guess 12.2 is a good starting point for now. I'll report back after testing.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
I am planning my install with the HK3 and A129 dual.

Does the HK3 ACC wire draws any current or it is just simply for detection on ACC power?

Background:
In my Toyota, the fuse box is under the steering wheel, it is impossible to install a fuse-tap without leaving the cover off. I have access to the electrical diagram and factory dash cam installation guide. I am able to tap into BAT and ACC on one of the harness connected to the ECU (like how they do it at factory) without needing to completely remove the the ECU from the driver side junction box.

That only ACC wire runs the Remote Control Mirrors (power side mirrors), it is on 5A only. I do not want to overload that system, as comparing to cigarette lighter is 15A or the USB is 7.5A.

I want to take off the least amount of things as possible and I am planning to use Posi-Taps for the install for added safety.
 
welcome to your first post, some megs lurking there

sorry can't be of help to your question though
 
Does the HK3 ACC wire draws any current or it is just simply for detection on ACC power?
Just for detection, no significant current draw.

I suggest you reconsider connecting to the fuse box, just because you can't close the lid doesn't mean it is impossible, somebody else recently who I think also had a Toyota, I think cut a hole in the fusebox lid so that it would fit back on, and then obtained a spare lid to go over the top of the original holy lid to make it neat. I don't like using inline taps unless it is essential.
 
Just for detection, no significant current draw.

I suggest you reconsider connecting to the fuse box, just because you can't close the lid doesn't mean it is impossible, somebody else recently who I think also had a Toyota, I think cut a hole in the fusebox lid so that it would fit back on, and then obtained a spare lid to go over the top of the original holy lid to make it neat. I don't like using inline taps unless it is essential.

Thanks, that's good advise. I will keep into consideration once I pop the cover out. I am afraid about breaking stuff so the Posi-Products have been my go to tools for stereo installs. The wiring is about gauge 14-18 and it's not as thick
 
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