A129 Collision Footage Lost...

[jdct]

I just did the following experiment: I unplugged the dash cam when the recording duration is at 1:50, then quickly plugged it back in to simulate a momentary power loss. When I checked the clip, the full 1:50 was recorded. This means that on that day, if the power was cut off the moment my car got hit, my first clip would've recorded everything up to the point immediately before the impact. However, my clip ended many seconds before the impact.

Maybe I'm just extremely unlucky and my dash cam disconnected at the worst timing possible haha... Or perhaps there is a complex interplay of many different factors leading to this unfortunate loss of footage.

Yes, if all is working as expected, the last frame in the earlier file is when your dashcam lost power. So the question would probably by why your dashcam lost power before the impact. Upon reviewing the listing of other saved video files, do any other shorter than expected files stand out to you?

EDIT: I dont know much about eletronic engineering, but the dash cam LED's were flashing after I unplugged the cable for the experiment, does that mean the cam was writing the final seconds of the footage onto the SD card, using energy stored in the capacitors? If thats the case, perhaps the dash cam's capacitors malfunctioned momentarily due to the impact when my car was hit, so the few seconds before the impact weren't written. Honestly at this point I don't expect to be able to recover the footage, I just want to ensure it doesn't happen again. Perhaps I should request for a replacement unit.

You should not need a degree in electrical engineering to get a dashcam to save a recording of an unfortunate accident. It's primarily what they are for! I would think that the capacitors working properly during your test would indicate that they are not failing, though I will leave it to someone with more specific relevant experience to chime in on that one.

UPDATE: If your dashcam had faulty capacitors, you would also likely find corrupted files as power would be lost before files were properly closed. If no lost clusters found on the file system, then it stands to reason that all files were closed.

 

[jdct]

Doesn't seem like my car moved upon reviewing the footages. My cut off is set at the lowest setting, 11.8V I think? I haven't had any problems with power supply to the dash cam, since my Cellink battery is always at 100% when I leave the garage (I don't use parking mode in my garage), and the car battery should be pretty sufficient since I use a dedicated external battery.

The lowest voltage setting on the HK3 would seem appropriate for use with a cellink. Though as you mentioned, there are many more factors to consider. There can be many guesses and even more speculation, but look for a pattern to help find the source of the problem. If there are other video files that seem to be truncated, then you can view them to see if any circumstances are similar (excluding the truck of course). All short files should probably end at one of your destinations. If not, then you might have found another piece of the puzzle. And then even if you can't put the pieces of that puzzle together yourself, someone here will certainly try to help.

 

[BCHobbyist]

Doesn't seem like my car moved upon reviewing the footages. My cut off is set at the lowest setting, 11.8V I think? I haven't had any problems with power supply to the dash cam, since my Cellink battery is always at 100% when I leave the garage (I don't use parking mode in my garage), and the car battery should be pretty sufficient since I use a dedicated external battery.

If you are in Vancouver and the memory card is not overwritten I could have a look and check something on the A129 itself that may explain the issue and allow others to replicate.

 

[jdct]

If you are in Vancouver and the memory card is not overwritten I could have a look and check something on the A129 itself that may explain the issue and allow others to replicate.

This is the point at which the slope gets too slippery for most. Or maybe it was when I suggested that teefdoc look into the possibility of other truncated video files. Or perhaps it was even before that...

End users who purchase these products simply want their dashcams to record their drives, most likely just in case something bad happens, and now teefdoc is getting sucked into checking this and that and the other thing, and also having to figure out who here knows what they are talking about and who does not. While some here might be interested in such tedium, and others here genuinely want to help others, the vast majority of people want to spend their days doing something else, and simply for their dashcam to work as it should without constant tending to, or having to help solve issues that should have been addressed before it was promoted and sold as a competed and reliable product.

If teefdoc chooses to work though his problem in this forum, then it is not only the well known members here helping him, but also teefdoc freely contributing his time and effort to helping the company that manufactures these constant pains in the posterior, and he should be thanked for spending more than just his money for this unfinished product (which occasionally fails to record that for which it was designed and purchased).

@BCHobbyist, no disrespect intended. Your effort here is admirable, and admittedly a much better contribution than mine. It's just much easier for an end user of this product to send it back to the manufacturer than to fall into the time sucking rabbit hole required to make it work the way it probably should have coming out of the box.

 

[Lvnatic]

Ok, this entire thread kinda scared me. How do I set the camera to record 24/7 without any collision sensor and so on? I don't need anything saved in the RO folder I just want to record continuously and I will manually select videos if I ever need them.

 

[TonyM]

Ok, this entire thread kinda scared me. How do I set the camera to record 24/7 without any collision sensor and so on? I don't need anything saved in the RO folder I just want to record continuously and I will manually select videos if I ever need them.

You can turn off the g-sensor and parking modes. Then the camera should record continuously.

 

[Nigel]

Ok, this entire thread kinda scared me. How do I set the camera to record 24/7 without any collision sensor and so on? I don't need anything saved in the RO folder I just want to record continuously and I will manually select videos if I ever need them.

I'd recommend using the low bitrate parking mode for that rather than normal recording full time, it will give considerably longer times before the card loops.
As far as I know the switch to low bitrate and back doesn't have any issues, it just starts a new file using the new bitrate.

 

[HonestReview]

I just ran the error check feature on windows, doesn't seem like there's any problem with my microSD.

Curious, where did you buy the memory card from? Brick and Mortar Store or online (Amazon, etc)

If Online, go to the below link, select your card, and run the authentication tool to insure your card is authentic. A huge problem when buying online are the unlimited number of Chinese Fakes. Even on Amazon.

1. Download and install: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/computing/memory-storage

 

[HonestReview]

I'd recommend using the low bitrate parking mode for that rather than normal recording full time, it will give considerably longer times before the card loops.
As far as I know the switch to low bitrate and back doesn't have any issues, it just starts a new file using the new bitrate.

OP was in Drive, so issue didn't happen while parked. If I understand properly.

 

[HonestReview]

Doesn't seem like my car moved upon reviewing the footages. My cut off is set at the lowest setting, 11.8V I think? I haven't had any problems with power supply to the dash cam, since my Cellink battery is always at 100% when I leave the garage (I don't use parking mode in my garage), and the car battery should be pretty sufficient since I use a dedicated external battery.

Um 11.8v = Dead Battery. Set to either 12.0 (25% Battery) or 12.2 (50%).... I wouldn't ever recommend 11.8. One day you might come out to find your car doesn't start.

 

[HonestReview]

EDIT: I dont know much about eletronic engineering, but the dash cam LED's were flashing after I unplugged the cable for the experiment, does that mean the cam was writing the final seconds of the footage onto the SD card, using energy stored in the capacitors? If thats the case, perhaps the dash cam's capacitors malfunctioned momentarily due to the impact when my car was hit, so the few seconds before the impact weren't written. Honestly at this point I don't expect to be able to recover the footage, I just want to ensure it doesn't happen again. Perhaps I should request for a replacement unit.

Yes, when camera is turned off, the super capacitor is there to provider a few seconds of power so the card can be written to and camera safely turned off.

My honest theory at this juncture would be:

1. Fake SD card... Run software I gave you. Especially if card was bought online.

If the card passes:

2. Samsung Evo may be like the Sandisk Ultra Plus. Incompatible with the Viofo for reasons unknown. Again, might try to see if someone else on here runs one. If not, there may be a reason (erratic behavior) similar to what the Sandisk Ultra Plus caused. Random freezes, lock ups, missed footage, etc.

 

[TonyM]

Um 11.8v = Dead Battery. Set to either 12.0 (25% Battery) or 12.2 (50%).... I wouldn't ever recommend 11.8. One day you might come out to find your car doesn't start.

If you read the post carefully, that's the cut-off to the Cellink battery, not to the car battery.

 

[HonestReview]

If you read the post carefully, that's the cut-off to the Cellink battery, not to the car battery.

Doesn't seem like my car moved upon reviewing the footages. My cut off is set at the lowest setting, 11.8V I think? I haven't had any problems with power supply to the dash cam, since my Cellink battery is always at 100% when I leave the garage (I don't use parking mode in my garage), and the car battery should be pretty sufficient since I use a dedicated external battery.

I don't interpret that from his statement above. The way I read it, his cell link is hardwired to his car. And he has voltage cutoff at 11.8V. Which means his car battery would be dead if the car was left off continuously for an extended period. As the cell link would keep drawing power to recharge until it hit the 11.8V cutoff (dead car battery).

 

[jdct]

I don't interpret that from his statement above. The way I read it, his cell link is hardwired to his car. And he has voltage cutoff at 11.8V. Which means his car battery would be dead if the car was left on continuously for an extended period and the cell link kept drawing power to recharge.

You seem not to comprehend the primary purpose of the cellink, nor how it functions when properly wired. In conjunction with a cellink, it would probably be best to disable the hk3 cutoff voltage completely if it were possible, as it is likely using some form of dc-dc buck converter internally, which can often function all the way down to 9 volts input. Can someone who has taken the time to open one please confirm if you're able?

Also @HonestReview , you just claimed that "his car battery would be dead if the car was left on continuously for an extended period and the cell link kept drawing power to recharge". Can you not see what is so very wrong about that statement?

 

[HonestReview]

You seem not to comprehend the primary purpose of the cellink, nor how it functions when properly wired. In conjunction with a cellink, it would probably be best to disable the hk3 cutoff voltage completely if it were possible, as it is likely using some form of dc-dc buck converter internally, which can often function all the way down to 9 volts input. Can someone who has taken the time to open one please confirm if you're able?

Also @HonestReview , you just claimed that "his car battery would be dead if the car was left on continuously for an extended period and the cell link kept drawing power to recharge". Can you not see what is so very wrong about that statement?

I understand how a cell link works. It's a battery that charges while the car is powered on to provide power to the camera when the car is shut off.

However, if someone plugged the battery to an always on fuse, I presume the Cell Link would charge back up if it got low while powering the camera during which times the vehicle was turned off. Or am I wrong here?

 

[jdct]

I understand how a cell link works. It's a battery that charges while the car is powered on to provide power to the camera when the car is shut off.

However, if someone plugged the battery to an always on fuse, I presume the Cell Link would charge back up if it got low while powering the camera during which times the vehicle was turned off. Or am I wrong here?

@teefdoc did not come here for help with a dead battery problem. He needs help with a missing recording/didn't record type of problem.

 

[HonestReview]

@teefdoc did not come here for help with a dead battery problem. He needs help with a missing recording/didn't record type of problem.

Seriously? So if there's a problem in general, we shouldn't offer advice?......

And as far as the SD card.... He needs to continue on to check for authenticity (lots of fakes sold online) and then try to ascertain if the sd card is supported by the A129 Duo.

JB-007 said: anyone know the difference between the Samsung EVO SELECT and Samsung EVO PLUS?

The colour, the Select cards are green, the Plus cards are orange, although the shade changes with every minor new version.

The Select cards are an Amazon special, so generally not faked because they shouldn't be available except from Amazon. The Plus cards are often faked.

Sometimes you get a newer/older version so there may be some other differences, but basically it is the colour.

But hey.... We'll let you handle the problem, since you've got all the answers and none of us are needed any further... O wait, you haven't solved OP's problem. Just spouted off at others who try to help troubleshoot.

 

[teefdoc]

The lowest voltage setting on the HK3 would seem appropriate for use with a cellink. Though as you mentioned, there are many more factors to consider. There can be many guesses and even more speculation, but look for a pattern to help find the source of the problem. If there are other video files that seem to be truncated, then you can view them to see if any circumstances are similar (excluding the truck of course). All short files should probably end at one of your destinations. If not, then you might have found another piece of the puzzle. And then even if you can't put the pieces of that puzzle together yourself, someone here will certainly try to help.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on my files from now on. However, looking at the files I currently have (128gb storage), all my other regular footages (car running, 3min duration) are continuous with all file sizes ~350mb.

If you are in Vancouver and the memory card is not overwritten I could have a look and check something on the A129 itself that may explain the issue and allow others to replicate.

I do happen to live in the area! I'll PM you to see if we are close.

Curious, where did you buy the memory card from? Brick and Mortar Store or online (Amazon, etc)

If Online, go to the below link, select your card, and run the authentication tool to insure your card is authentic. A huge problem when buying online are the unlimited number of Chinese Fakes. Even on Amazon.

1. Download and install: https://www.samsung.com/us/support/computing/memory-storage

This Samsung EVO Plus 128GB microSD was bundled with my old Samsung Galaxy phone, purchased at a Samsung brick and mortar store back in 2016. I'm pretty sure it's genuine haha, though its already a 3 year old card. Perhaps I should swap it out with a new one just in case.

Um 11.8v = Dead Battery. Set to either 12.0 (25% Battery) or 12.2 (50%).... I wouldn't ever recommend 11.8. One day you might come out to find your car doesn't start.

The HK3 kit connects the dash cam to the cellink battery, so the voltage sensor is monitoring the cellink, not the car battery. From my experience, the 11.8V threshold is never reached, thus the cellink can get completely drained when I leave parking mode on. The cellink will only get charged by the car when the ignition is on, so the car battery should always be sufficient for startup, as well as other car features.

 

[HonestReview]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on my files from now on. However, looking at the files I currently have (128gb storage), all my other regular footages (car running, 3min duration) are continuous with all file sizes ~350mb.



I do happen to live in the area! I'll PM you to see if we are close.



This Samsung EVO Plus 128GB microSD was bundled with my old Samsung Galaxy phone, purchased at a Samsung brick and mortar store back in 2016. I'm pretty sure it's genuine haha, though its already a 3 year old card. Perhaps I should swap it out with a new one just in case.

Ok. Then I hope the guy who might live nearby can replicate the problem or recover the lost footage, if somehow it got overwritten. Sounds to me like the card has a problem. Not to beat a dead horse, but my Samsung A2 Extreme has never had issue. But my Sandisk Ultra Plus exhibited similar symptoms to your Samsung Evo. Random Camera Freezes which then cause loss of video. Sandisk Ultra Plus is 100% not supported by camera. But I did look and others use the Samsung Evo. So bit weird, so maybe your card is just going bad, but software isn't detecting the problem?

The HK3 kit connects the dash cam to the cellink battery, so the voltage sensor is monitoring the cellink, not the car battery. From my experience, the 11.8V threshold is never reached, thus the cellink can get completely drained when I leave parking mode on. The cellink will only get charged by the car when the ignition is on, so the car battery should always be sufficient for startup, as well as other car features.

Ok then ignore my previous comments. If the cell link only charges while car is running, then 11.8V makes zero different. That voltage will simply drain the cell link down to 0%. Not a big deal since it doesn't affect the vehicle battery.

 

[SawMaster]

I'm pretty sure it's genuine haha, though its already a 3 year old card. Perhaps I should swap it out with a new one just in case.

If it's been 3 years in the cam it could be reaching it's old days, but only testing the card can tell. I've had dashcam cards remain good for 3-4 times longer than they were rated at but others have had cards fail before they should have. Cards are always a weak point in dashcams and should always be scrutinized more often as they age

And while I also believe there shouldn't have been a problem requiring extra effort on a cam owner's part, in real life that's going to happen occasionally. It's better fore most cam owners to do for themselves what they can before going through the hassle and camless time a warranty return takes. That's why people here try to help make that process as easy and quick as we can when someone comes along asking for help with their cam problems

Phil