A129 Electrical Issues After Hooking Up Rear Dashcam

jdct

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@HonestReview: You're so very funny and you probably don't realize how many eye-socket injuries you are inflicting upon innocent victims by causing involuntary and excessive eye rolling in response to the vast majority your posts.

When I suggested to @Travis959 that he follow the advice of mostly anyone else here except you, @jokiin was on the right on the top of that of that list because he really does know what he is talking about but you are so much like the problem that @Travis959 is currently dealing with his dashcam. Not only do you steer so many people looking for help in the wrong direction, but when others offer very useful, direct on-point advice, you too often drown them out with your oh so noisy interference.

(Thanks to all the others here too on dashcamtalk who share their incredibly beneficial knowledge and experience; you all know who you are! I only mentioned @jokiin individually because he was specifically referred to in the earlier post. I tend not to write around here anymore but I am very grateful for all you contribute to this online resource.)
 
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Travis959

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Again, thanks for the replies. I had the cable just dangling from the front camera to the rear camera for 3 or 4 days with no issues. Then I just put it in the headliner from the front camera to behind the drivers seat - opposite way as last time - with the rest of the cable coiled up in the rear seat and didn’t have any issues for 2 days. Then I put the rest of the cable up and all of the excess is up near the rear camera. Went to drive it and 10 minutes later, TPMS warning.

I think it was most likely just luck it never happened those two days where it wasn’t entirely up in the headliner. So unfortunately I am mostly back to where I started with this problem, although with more knowledge thanks to the posters here.
 

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Again, thanks for the replies. I had the cable just dangling from the front camera to the rear camera for 3 or 4 days with no issues. Then I just put it in the headliner from the front camera to behind the drivers seat - opposite way as last time - with the rest of the cable coiled up in the rear seat and didn’t have any issues for 2 days. Then I put the rest of the cable up and all of the excess is up near the rear camera. Went to drive it and 10 minutes later, TPMS warning.

I think it was most likely just luck it never happened those two days where it wasn’t entirely up in the headliner. So unfortunately I am mostly back to where I started with this problem, although with more knowledge thanks to the posters here.

There may be a simple method to help determine if the dashcam power supply is at fault for the wireless interference, or if the dashcam itself is playing a role. If you have an available USB port built into the car with sufficient current to power the dashcam, then you could plug the dashcam into that USB port. (Unplug all other USB devices for best results.) But please understand that it is generally not recommended to power dashcams from built-in USB ports, so perhaps only use it to help troubleshoot and isolate the source of interference. Also note that you would not be able to use any of the available parking modes in that configuration.

Please do not take for granted the location of the TPMS receiver module being near the rear view mirror; I found that information on the internet, and there's a lot of useless garbage out there. The source was not the manufacturer's documentation, so at best I would consider it an 80% chance. I had also found someone who was claiming that it was up near the back of the roof, but you actually have the car so you could locate it with absolute certainty.

Finally, there are several people that have experienced the same issues as you in their Camaros over at the forums at camaro6.com. You might find more detailed information about your specific car there -- and perhaps even solutions from others there that have actually worked for them.
 
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HonestReview

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@HonestReview: You're so very funny and you probably don't realize how many eye-socket injuries you are inflicting upon innocent victims by causing involuntary and excessive eye rolling in response to the vast majority your posts.

When I suggested to @Travis959 that he follow the advice of mostly anyone else here except you, @jokiin was on the right on the top of that of that list because he really does know what he is talking about but you are so much like the problem that @Travis959 is currently dealing with his dashcam. Not only do you steer so many people looking for help in the wrong direction, but when others offer very useful, direct on-point advice, you too often drown them out with your oh so noisy interference.

(Thanks to all the others here too on dashcamtalk who share their incredibly beneficial knowledge and experience; you all know who you are! I only mentioned @jokiin individually because he was specifically referred to in the earlier post. I tend not to write around here anymore but I am very grateful for all you contribute to this online resource.)

Again, you completely miss the fact that I ALONE pointed out his improper hardwire to the Airbag.....And instead of a check engine light and the automatic transmission will no longer shift, his only problem appears to now be the TPMS Light.

Tying into safety systems is a big no no. Even @jokiin agreed with my assessment 100%.

Pick and choose what you want. Personally don't give a damn about your opinion, because my suggestion was useful.
 
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HonestReview

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There may be a simple method to help determine if the dashcam power supply is at fault for the wireless interference, or if the dashcam itself is playing a role. If you have an available USB port built into the car with sufficient current to power the dashcam, then you could plug the dashcam into that USB port. (Unplug all other USB devices for best results.) But please understand that it is generally not recommended to power dashcams from built-in USB ports, so perhaps only use it to help troubleshoot and isolate the source of interference. Also note that you would not be able to use any of the available parking modes in that configuration.

Please do not take for granted the location of the TPMS receiver module being near the rear view mirror; I found that information on the internet, and there's a lot of useless garbage out there. The source was not the manufacturer's documentation, so at best I would consider it an 80% chance. I had also found someone who was claiming that it was up near the back of the roof, but you actually have the car so you could locate it with absolute certainty.

Finally, there are several people that have experienced the same issues as you in their Camaros over at the forums at camaro7.com. You might find more detailed information about your specific car there -- and perhaps even solutions from others there that have actually worked for them.

So now you go from TPMS receiver module being near the rear view mirror to 80% certain. I've got an easy solution, he could call the dealer and ASK about the location of the TPMS receiver module instead of speculate or listen to your google guess work! Oh my, what a novel idea!
 

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there's often multiple sensors for the TPMS, there's one on each wheel obviously, multiple receive points is not uncommon in OEM systems
 

jdct

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there's often multiple sensors for the TPMS, there's one on each wheel obviously, multiple receive points is not uncommon in OEM systems

There is only one GM/Chevrolet manufacturer part number for the Camaro's TMPS receiver. There is a location diagram but it is unfortunately not that useful to someone without the actual car to place the other nearby parts/modules into context. And it is not even clear on the parts website if that location diagram is specifically for the Camaro, as the same TMPS receiver module part number is used across many different GM car models. But from what information is there, it does seem to indicate that there is only one receiver present.

@HonestReview there is something broken in you.
 
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jokiin

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There is only one GM/Chevrolet manufacturer part number for the Camaro's TMPS receiver. There is a location diagram but it is unfortunately not that useful to someone without the actual car to place the other nearby parts/modules into context. And it is not even clear on the parts website if that location diagram is specifically for the Camaro, as the same TMPS receiver module part number is used across many different GM car models. But from what information is there, it does seem to indicate that there is only one receiver present.
sounds right, we don't have most of the GM models here, (the Camaro is a low volume grey import of sorts) so it's not something we come across but it's a problem I have seen previously with other GM models
 

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There is only one GM/Chevrolet manufacturer part number for the Camaro's TMPS receiver. There is a location diagram but it is unfortunately not that useful to someone without the actual car to place the other nearby parts/modules into context. And it is not even clear on the parts website if that location diagram is specifically for the Camaro, as the same TMPS receiver module part number is used across many different GM car models. But from what information is there, it does seem to indicate that there is only one receiver present.

You know what they say about assumptions, right? Stop assuming. You don't know the answer, even if you pretend to know. Op can easily call dealer for a direct answer instead of listening to someone's googling guesswork.

@HonestReview there is something broken in you.

Ya... I know how to use a telephone.....Magical skills in 2020.
 
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Travis959

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Dealer's only advice was to remove all 3rd party electronics.
 

HonestReview

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Dealer's only advice was to remove all 3rd party electronics.

You should be able to call the parts department (might need to call another dealer if your preferred one isn't friendly), and ask where the TMPS module is located and if there's one near or behind the mirror. They can answer that one very easily by looking up the part.
 

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Dealer's only advice was to remove all 3rd party electronics.

That's the stock answer and the only 'official' one they can give you.

It can be a hassle but the best way to get assistance from a dealer is to befriend one of the mechanics there directly, bypassing the usual channels meant to isolate you and them from each other. They are the person who will know (and tell you) all the things which the dealership would prefer to hide or make you pay for unnecessarily.

Phil
 

jdct

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Again, you completely miss the fact that I ALONE pointed out...

This thread is not about you @HonestReview. Though you likely feel compelled to write, say, or think "I ALONE" an awful lot, this thread exists to discuss and hopefully help @Travis959 and any other dashcam owners experiencing a similar situation by providing some insight and assistance in addressing the issue. And with any luck Viofo and other dashcam manufacturers who also provide interference generating power supplies, or noisy dashcams themselves may also eventually see enough of these complaints and begin to provide what we need for the sake of compatibility and not just what is cheapest to produce. (Many are guilty of saving several cents parts per unit instead of designing/manufacturing products that are less likely to create issues with ubiquitous automotive electronic systems.) And when I don't respond to your next ridiculous comment, it is not because you "won the internet", but because I win by ignoring your existence. (But then we're probably getting into one of the underlying reasons why "I ALONE" is such an impotent theme for you.)
 

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@jokiin, this is not exactly on point for this thread but does StreetGuardian spec out higher quality power supplies for its dashcam models? And/or test/quantify EMI radiation for its products?
 

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@jokiin, this is not exactly on point for this thread but does StreetGuardian spec out higher quality power supplies for its dashcam models? And/or test/quantify EMI radiation for its products?
we EMI test all our products, around one year of the delay with the SG9663DR was due to not passing the tests and stuff having to be redone, that said just because a product is within limits for the tests doesn't mean that they can't or won't have problems in some vehicles due to the location or characteristics of some other component, vehicle manufacturers don't design things with a goal of making sure some aftermarket product that they never accounted for is not going to interfere with something, the more of the electronic 'smarts' that they add to a vehicle, the more of a challenge it can become unfortunately
 

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This thread is not about you @HonestReview. Though you likely feel compelled to write, say, or think "I ALONE" an awful lot, this thread exists to discuss and hopefully help @Travis959 and any other dashcam owners experiencing a similar situation by providing some insight and assistance in addressing the issue. And with any luck Viofo and other dashcam manufacturers who also provide interference generating power supplies, or noisy dashcams themselves may also eventually see enough of these complaints and begin to provide what we need for the sake of compatibility and not just what is cheapest to produce. (Many are guilty of saving several cents parts per unit instead of designing/manufacturing products that are less likely to create issues with ubiquitous automotive electronic systems.) And when I don't respond to your next ridiculous comment, it is not because you "won the internet", but because I win by ignoring your existence. (But then we're probably getting into one of the underlying reasons why "I ALONE" is such an impotent theme for you.)

Egotistical, huh? You said I offered @Travis959 no useful advice and to ignore my suggestions. Clearly, your nonsense isn't rooted in fact. Furthered by your lack of understanding how a simple telephone works to phone the dealer instead of Google Guessing.

No need to reply. You've said a lot but, really have said much of nothing, except what you've parroted or stolen from @jokiin.

FYI: Just like with Ford using special fuses, manufacturers aren't going to cow tow to a single brand that may have issues with their product. If the product works with 95% of people, those other 5% will probably just be out of luck. Too expensive to cater to small masses with issues.
 

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If the product works with 95% of people, those other 5% will probably just be out of luck. Too expensive to cater to small masses with issues.
unfortunately there will always be some product that doesn't play nicely with some vehicle, it's not always price related either, sometimes the tech is just hard to work with, sometimes you can get things working with a different product that uses some other design protocol, there's no one perfect solution, I don't think there ever will be
 

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we EMI test all our products, around one year of the delay with the SG9663DR was due to not passing the tests and stuff having to be redone, that said just because a product is within limits for the tests doesn't mean that they can't or won't have problems in some vehicles due to the location or characteristics of some other component, vehicle manufacturers don't design things with a goal of making sure some aftermarket product that they never accounted for is not going to interfere with something, the more of the electronic 'smarts' that they add to a vehicle, the more of a challenge it can become unfortunately

Correct me if I am wrong, but was it Street Guardian that someone had a problem with hardwiring, because the fuses used by Ford were different? I mean it's far to expensive to cater to a single small segment if 95% of other people have no issue. Redesigning or modifying an existing product is never cheap. Especially if you have to manufacturer a second group of products JUST for that 5% until you run out of existing product to standardize a new design.
 

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Correct me if I am wrong, but was it Street Guardian that someone had a problem with hardwiring, because the fuses used by Ford were different? I mean it's far to expensive to cater to a single small segment if 95% of other people have no issue. Redesigning or modifying an existing product is never cheap. Especially if you have to manufacturer a second group of products JUST for that 5% until you run out of existing product to standardize a new design.
yes the fuse taps are a problem in some model Ford vehicles due to the design of the fuse panel, we are talking to the supplier though to see if they can adjust the tooling to work with those vehicles, yes they work for the 95% now but an adjustment to work with the Ford won't impact those 95% so they'll still work, if we can make it work for all is obviously preferred
 

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yes the fuse taps are a problem in some model Ford vehicles due to the design of the fuse panel, we are talking to the supplier though to see if they can adjust the tooling to work with those vehicles, yes they work for the 95% now but an adjustment to work with the Ford won't impact those 95% so they'll still work, if we can make it work for all is obviously preferred

One size fits all is clearly the cheapest model. I know the issue with current fuse tap design is they are a bit to large to fit Ford. Necessitating you shave them down a bit. Problem arises when let's say you have 50,000 fuse taps on hand that can't be sold to anyone with a ford vehicle. As a manufacturer, you're going to want to unload those products before pumping out a new or universal design. Otherwise, it becomes very costly to adjust production for a small fraction of affected users.
 
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