A129 in a 2019 Mazda 3?

RavenManiac

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Dash Cam
Viofo A129 Duo, mini 0806 (RIP)
Next weekend, I'm installing a second A129 in my son's new 2019 Mazda 3. This car, like many newer cars, has a radar apparatus for accident avoidance around the rearview mirror. On a car like this, is it better to install the dashcam below that device or to the right of it? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

new_mazda_3_35.jpg
 
I would install from the left side of the rearview mirror for more convenient menu operation and ejecting-inserting a memory card.
 
Next weekend, I'm installing a second A129 in my son's new 2019 Mazda 3. This car, like many newer cars, has a radar apparatus for accident avoidance around the rearview mirror. On a car like this, is it better to install the dashcam below that device or to the right of it? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.

Few weeks ago I installed camera in car equipped with similar radar (Infiniti Q50 - installation description in thread Infiniti Q50 hardwire Viofo A129 GPS Dual). I installed on the right side and there is no issues with radar - it's working fine.
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This place is not the best in terms of operating card / changing settings using small LCD screen. In this position camera is difficult to operate while driving
Due to above factors in installed Bluetooth remote control and wired camera to the central console screen - you can consider the same in Mazda 6.

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I would install from the left side of the rearview mirror for more convenient menu operation and ejecting-inserting a memory card.

Left side is the best position in terms of ejecting-inserting card.
 
New problem. In the Mazda3 Revolution forum, several members said that ALL of the fuses in the interior fuse box of a Mazda 3 are always on. Is this because the car has a pushbutton start? On these type of cars where would one find an ACC fuse or circuit?
 
I don't know what CAN-BUS means. Here are the fuses in the interior fusebox. As you'll see, there are quite a few that are blank. Can those be used if they're powered or should I stay away from something that is unknown?
 

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And here are the fuses in the engine bay fusebox.
 

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I don't know what CAN-BUS means. Here are the fuses in the interior fusebox. As you'll see, there are quite a few that are blank. Can those be used if they're powered or should I stay away from something that is unknown?
CAN-BUS means they're a pain in the ass to work with, reality of modern cars, empty sockets most often don't connect to anything, you won't know unless you test though, suggest using a multimeter to check
 
Good to know. Thanks! BTW, in this video, which I'm assuming is a modern-day Mazda, she did manage to find an ACC fuse, so maybe I'm getting bad info over in the Mazda 3 forum.

 
There is similar thread No Accessory Fuse to Tap Into? about hardwiring camera in Mazda 3 sedan. It seems that all circuits are powered all the time, and only controls are disabled for equipment which is not operating while car is switched off.
 
You can always set the turn-off voltage on the hardwire kit to max, maybe even add a diode in the supply so that it turns off almost immediately the engine stops.
 
You can always set the turn-off voltage on the hardwire kit to max, maybe even add a diode in the supply so that it turns off almost immediately the engine stops.

In this case two wire (instead of 3 wire) hardwire kit will be good idea.
 
In this case two wire (instead of 3 wire) hardwire kit will be good idea.
You might want the voltage selection switch, which is not available on the original Viofo two wire.
 
What about running the ACC wire on the Viofo 3-wire hardwire kit to the fusebox in the engine compartment, which may have switched 12V fuses? Yes, it's a pain, but won't that work?
 
What about running the ACC wire on the Viofo 3-wire hardwire kit to the fusebox in the engine compartment, which may have switched 12V fuses? Yes, it's a pain, but won't that work?
Yes, that would work. If you have to extend the wire then make sure you use automotive grade wire so that it can cope with the heat, oil, fuel etc. that may appear in the engine compartment, and tie-wrap it well so that it can't vibrate/rub against anything and short out.

Another possibility, if the accessory socket, or a USB socket is switched, then use that power for the ACC wire and connect the bat+ to the
permanently live fuse box. Not sure how much that helps, but the ACC wire is just for switching, doesn't take any real power so a thin flex can be used as long as it is well tie-wrapped into place and has a suitable fuse.
 
Yes, that would work. If you have to extend the wire then make sure you use automotive grade wire so that it can cope with the heat, oil, fuel etc. that may appear in the engine compartment, and tie-wrap it well so that it can't vibrate/rub against anything and short out.

What gauge of wire do you think I need?
 
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