Julian23
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2016
- Messages
- 244
- Reaction score
- 145
- Country
- Germany
- Dash Cam
- Viofo A139
I finally decided to get a dashcam and went with the A139 and the HK3-C.
Since this has been quite an interesting install, I chose to post it here. Maybe others can profit from it.
To not obstruct my view I mounted the A139 on the right side of the rearview mirror in the dotted area, leaving some space at the top for the cables.
To make the cables invisible I removed the trim of the a-pillar and put the cables behind the trim and the airbag to not interfere with it.
I ran the cable down towards the underside of the glovebox and tucked the cables in the door seal.
Underneath the glovebox I placed the HK3-C and connected it to ground. This spot allows me to change the cutoff voltage without having to remove any trims or screws.
To make my way to the fusebox in the trunk I removed the trim on the front door sill. To avoid any rattling I placed the cables from the Hardwire-Kit and the rear camera slightly under the carpet.
Since there was enough space under the rear panel, I didn't have to remove the trim.
From the rear door sill I ran the rear camera cable up to the C-pillar next to the door seal.
The cable for the Hardwire-Kit doesn't has to go up the c-pillar.
Above the rear panel I had to remove the c-pillar trim. To do this I removed the screw behind the airbag cover.
Sadly I didn't take any picture how I routed the cable to the headliner after I removed the trim.
The small rear cam cable can be nicely hidden underneath the window trim at the headliner.
My generation of 3-series allows me to open only the rear window of the trunk. Since I didn't want to risk hitting the rear camera while loading stuff into the car I got myself a 3d printed part to mount the camera to the fabric headliner. The mount simply slides onto the headliner.
Now the only thing left to do is to connect the HK3-C to the battery and ACC.
I was able to pull the cable from the rear seat to the fusebox in the trunk through a gap.
The acc was connected with a fusetap to the fusebox. Batt was connected directly to the battery. This avoids getting warnings on the iDrive system from current draw.
This is the final result how the camera looks mounted with all the cables connected.
So far I am very happy with it. I have no rattling from the cables.
Since this has been quite an interesting install, I chose to post it here. Maybe others can profit from it.
To not obstruct my view I mounted the A139 on the right side of the rearview mirror in the dotted area, leaving some space at the top for the cables.
To make the cables invisible I removed the trim of the a-pillar and put the cables behind the trim and the airbag to not interfere with it.
I ran the cable down towards the underside of the glovebox and tucked the cables in the door seal.
Underneath the glovebox I placed the HK3-C and connected it to ground. This spot allows me to change the cutoff voltage without having to remove any trims or screws.
To make my way to the fusebox in the trunk I removed the trim on the front door sill. To avoid any rattling I placed the cables from the Hardwire-Kit and the rear camera slightly under the carpet.
Since there was enough space under the rear panel, I didn't have to remove the trim.
From the rear door sill I ran the rear camera cable up to the C-pillar next to the door seal.
The cable for the Hardwire-Kit doesn't has to go up the c-pillar.
Above the rear panel I had to remove the c-pillar trim. To do this I removed the screw behind the airbag cover.
Sadly I didn't take any picture how I routed the cable to the headliner after I removed the trim.
The small rear cam cable can be nicely hidden underneath the window trim at the headliner.
My generation of 3-series allows me to open only the rear window of the trunk. Since I didn't want to risk hitting the rear camera while loading stuff into the car I got myself a 3d printed part to mount the camera to the fabric headliner. The mount simply slides onto the headliner.
Now the only thing left to do is to connect the HK3-C to the battery and ACC.
I was able to pull the cable from the rear seat to the fusebox in the trunk through a gap.
The acc was connected with a fusetap to the fusebox. Batt was connected directly to the battery. This avoids getting warnings on the iDrive system from current draw.
This is the final result how the camera looks mounted with all the cables connected.
So far I am very happy with it. I have no rattling from the cables.