A139 parking guard thread ( comments - flaws - requests post here )

Agreed completely. I think they need to shift the whole range of settings for parking mode to be more sensitive; driving settings are good as-is.

Phil

Seriously? It's way too damn sensitive on High. If I shut my car door too hard, the damn thing thinks I've captured an event. Not sure I want any more sensitive than that, or I'd be having a 1000 saved files from the vibrations of a bird taking a crap on my car (being sarcastic).
 
I get door slam events too in the start of a parking guard session, i assume setting the delay timer to XX seconds will change that, as i recall 90 seconds is the max for that timer, that should be fine to get out of "dodge" and slam what need to be slammed.

Otherwise i will agree these door slam events are most unwanted,,,,,,, though i have still not set that delay timer,,,,, ill see if i can manage that tomorrow.
 
Indeed, for parking the G - sensor can not be sensitive enough.
And not a problem with A139, but this will only work on rigid mounted systems, my DR that is just draped in its wires over the transmission tunnel in my car, well the car will have to be hit hard to register that, like getting shifted 0.5 M from where it is parked.

I have been contemplating if for remote systems like the SG9663DR it would be better to have a remote G sensor, maybe build in with the GPS antenna, cuz if you mount the camera deep in the car, chance are you are not going to mount it to something very rigid.
For instance my initial idea of mounting it to the back of the glove box ( plastic ) thats not very rigid, down in that area you would pretty much have to "bolt" it to the firewall then.
Actually, it could be sensitive enough but the problem is that at some point slight movements become quite "complex" which would need more like an AI level of analyzing (probably possible since there are things like ADAS already... :ROFLMAO: ) But I would be glad even for a bit higher sensitivity for my A139 - at this moment I can jump all over my car without any notice. Only my second front unit mounted on boot door flags events when I closing it...

But it terms of detection without AI (oh, sweet dreams :LOL: ) I was thinking more about something like a remote sensors of some sort, e.g. bluetooth/zigbee piezoelectric sensors.

Seriously? It's way too damn sensitive on High. If I shut my car door too hard, the damn thing thinks I've captured an event. Not sure I want any more sensitive than that, or I'd be having a 1000 saved files from the vibrations of a bird taking a crap on my car (being sarcastic).
Yeah, because it depends on a mass of a car, quality+stiffness of a suspension, stiffness of a windshield, etc. (btw: slamming doors isn't the best scale for G-sensor sensitivity rating)
 
Last edited:
Testing the B1W which just have 1 G - sensor setting, rarely going off when driving, but kicking the rear steel rim of my car i could set it off while parked.
You cant kick a steel rim that hard with the sole of your foot and not hurt yourself.
I would consider a door slam a massive event.
 
Yeah, because it depends on a mass of a car, quality of a suspension, stiffness of a windshield, etc. (btw: slamming doors isn't the best scale for G-sensor sensitivity rating)

I drive a 2015 Volvo S60 that's dealer maintained and genuine parts. We're not talking a crap car. But yes, the doors are very heavy on a Volvo. So that could be one reason that shutting the door "normally" but slightly hard triggers enough vibration.

Volvo uses Boron Steel, not the lightest Material


1625508163611.png
 
Otherwise i will agree these door slam events are most unwanted,,,,,,, though i have still not set that delay timer,,,,, ill see if i can manage that tomorrow.
That's what I did and it works fine. Though I don't think it's active during low-bitrate parking mine is set on low for parking since I'll have a recording of any event anyway. But even on high mine wouldn't have registered anything short of a total-loss incident.

Phil
 
That's what I did and it works fine. Though I don't think it's active during low-bitrate parking mine is set on low for parking since I'll have a recording of any event anyway. But even on high mine wouldn't have registered anything short of a total-loss incident.

Phil

The firmware 1.2 and later has a G-Sensor setting for Parking mode in Low Bitrate I believe. I set mine to medium for regular recording and low bitrate parking. On High the damn thing kept saying opening and closing my door was an event. Too sensitive for my taste.
 
The firmware 1.2 and later has a G-Sensor setting for Parking mode in Low Bitrate I believe. I set mine to medium for regular recording and low bitrate parking. On High the damn thing kept saying opening and closing my door was an event. Too sensitive for my taste.

I'll have to give this firmware a go, certainly on the early firmwares even slamming my doors did not set it off on my car. I try to check round the car for 5-10 seconds if possible so any major damage I will hopefully catch as any sensor will never be perfect.
 
Suggested Fuses: Red Circle for Battery. Yellow for ACC.

Those should work I believe.

View attachment 57338
Thank you for your help. I have managed to get it working. I connected ACC to CIG&P/OUTLET AND Battery to D/L-AMI (for doors and cabin lights). However, it will only records for 7 hours before it gets cut off. I am looking at buying a dashcam power pack, but they are very expensive. Need to find something cheaper.
 

Attachments

  • 20210704_154925.jpg
    20210704_154925.jpg
    311.7 KB · Views: 5
I think I've given up on parking motion detection ever working as intended. Finally surrendered that idea, and just switched to 2fps time lapse instead. I find that all my parking recording space was occupied by files that seem to be showing nothing moving. Not the leaves, not the curtains, nothing. Just some random dark noise maybe was enough to trigger blocks of continious recording via motion detection (set to low sensitivity!).
 
I think I've given up on parking motion detection ever working as intended. Finally surrendered that idea, and just switched to 2fps time lapse instead. I find that all my parking recording space was occupied by files that seem to be showing nothing moving. Not the leaves, not the curtains, nothing. Just some random dark noise maybe was enough to trigger blocks of continious recording via motion detection (set to low sensitivity!).

Motion detection is useless. Use low bitrate parking mode.
 
Hi, I just bought A139 and HK3-C kit. Please how best to connect it to KIA CEED

20210523_173711u.jpg
 
DRV 30 AMP power seat is a good Battery Fuse (RED). Power Outlet would be a good ACC Fuse (Accessory) - Yellow.
 
DRV 30 AMP power seat is a good Battery Fuse (RED). Power Outlet would be a good ACC Fuse (Accessory) - Yellow.
thank you for the advice. Power Outlet2 20A or Power Outlet1 15A or it doesn't matter ?
 
thank you for the advice. Power Outlet2 20A or Power Outlet1 15A or it doesn't matter ?

Shouldn't matter 15A or 20A. With CanBus there's always a chance fuses are linked to systems not described in the diagram. I had an issue where my alarm was tied to my 12V socket. And turning off the camera started the camera after it was turned off. LOL. Had to swap fuses.

Try those fuses recommended. If any give issue, let me know we can pick others.
 
Yesterday i tried to do a 12 Hour parking guard session ( low bitrate / 2 cameras as that have worked for me before with 6 hours / fresh in camera formatted 256GB memory card )
Anyway i got to 5 hours and then the camera stopped.

I dont think i can recommend the A139 to a person wanting to do parking guard :cry:
 
Yesterday i tried to do a 12 Hour parking guard session ( low bitrate / 2 cameras as that have worked for me before with 6 hours / fresh in camera formatted 256GB memory card )
Anyway i got to 5 hours and then the camera stopped.

I dont think i can recommend the A139 to a person wanting to do parking guard :cry:
I know you’ve done a lot of these tests now and the results seem to vary, is it definitely not voltage cut offs or anything triggering it?
 
Yesterday i tried to do a 12 Hour parking guard session ( low bitrate / 2 cameras as that have worked for me before with 6 hours / fresh in camera formatted 256GB memory card )
Anyway i got to 5 hours and then the camera stopped.

I dont think i can recommend the A139 to a person wanting to do parking guard :cry:
I assume now you don't have such hot weather as before, right? So probably not heat related specifically (at least not in terms of ambient temperature).

I'm on the same page as @Mtrev, or HWK "issue" in general. (actually I was curious whether the heat failing element couldn't be HWKs itself) My two units are powered by 26Ah battery pack and as long as power is provided, they probably could work for an "infinite" amount of time (at least I haven't set any limit and sometimes they run in parking mode even 24hours, both without failure).

Have you tried to run parking mode at home through powerbank or adapter?
 
Last edited:
Yes though August are still a summer month in Denmark, then the day was very cloudy and i was also parked facing away from the sun.
Better circumstances then the day where i tested 2 channel parking guard and it did work for the 6 hours i selected on the timer, only difference i think was the memory card.

No i have not tried to run the camera on my computer table.

I am a bit confused by the different results i am getting ( 3 channel ) but i have tested for a few days with just 2 channel and here parking guard worked just fine, thats why i felt safe doing the test as my car sat idle at my sisters place as we took a tour of Samso island in her car.
 
It is the first time i have tried to run the A139 for so long, but my SG9663DR connected to the same fuses can easy do parking guard for 12 hours, so i don't think it is power related as far ass battery go, i replaced battery last year and even put in one slightly larger than the factory one
 
Back
Top