A139 Pro Test & Review PP

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Dash Cam
2024 Minimum Requirements: STARVIS 2 & HDR
Let’s take a moment, and give @viofo a hand. They’re on a hot streak of releasing three “best in class” dash cams in the past five months, (A229 Duo, A119 Mini, A139 Pro). I’ve only been into dash cams since 2019, and I don’t think I’ve seen this many new models in such a short amount of time. Nice work Team Viofo.

I’m pleased to announce I didn’t screw up my reviews of the A229 Duo & A119 Mini too bad, and Viofo sent me a production model A139 Pro 3-Channel for test & review. Since this camera has already been so well review in it’s previous 2K version, I think I’m going to focus on the front main channel with the new STARVIS 2 IMX678 sensor, since both IR & Rear cameras, cabling, and accessories are carried over.

I also requested an A129 Pro Duo to be used for comparison with the A139 Pro. If you’re new to Viofo dash cams the A129 Pro Duo was released September 2019, and was an instant hit. For the past 3 years it’s pretty much been king of the hill when it comes to image quality, (especially during daytime). However during night time image quality may suffer a bit. Well that’s why I’m so excited to try the A139 Pro with the new STARVIS 2 IMX678 sensor. It’s supposed to fix the low light, and night time image quality issues, and also improve daytime dynamic range, (bright & dark areas in the same shot). I also have an A229 on the front windshield to compare with as well. But my A119 Mini is on the rear window. I like running that as a rear channel since it can use a CPL Filter.

This unit was delivered just a few short hours ago, and I can’t help but dig in with some preliminary power consumption, and temperature testing. If you are thinking about buying an A139 Pro, and are curious about it’s power consumption in a specific configuration, (1,2,3 channel) motion & impact parking mode, etc. let me know, and I’ll measure it for you, and report back.

The first thing I did was connect the A139 Pro 3-Channel to my Wantek 3010H Variable Power Supply with HK3-C hardwire kit, and let it run for 1.5 hours on my work bench in my garage. When I came back I measured the temp of the A139 Pro with an infrared thermometer at 147℉ (63℃). My garage ambient temp is 65℉ (18℃) 36% Humidity.

Next, I measured the power consumption in 3-Channel Normal Recording Mode, Wi-Fi off, Bitrate Maximum, HDR off, Firmware Version: V1.0_1115. I used my Wantek 3010H Variable power supply set at 12.60 Volts, and measured with my Fluke 115 Multimeter. The approximate power consumption is;
630mAh @ 12.60 Volts = 7.938 Watts

Next I enabled Low Bitrate Parking Mode and measured;
638mAh @ 12.60 Volts = 8.0388 Watts.
I triple checked this measurement, because this was the first time I’ve ever seen parking mode actually use more power.

Next I powered down the camera, and disconnected both IR & Rear cameras to measure power consumption in 1-Channel configuration. In Normal Recording Mode I measured approximately;
313mAh @ 12.60 Volts = 3.9438 Watts.

Next I enabled Low Bitrate Parking Mode and measured;
250mAh @ 12.60 Volts = 3.15 Watts.

Next I let the camera run for 30 minutes in 1-Channel, Normal Recording Mode, and I measured the temperature at 117℉ (47℃). It looks like the additional IR & Rear cameras really take their toll on power consumption, and heat production.

The next thing I did was connect the A139 Pro in 3-Channel configuration in Normal Recording Mode to my @BlackboxMyCar PowerCell 8 dash cam battery pack to see how long it would run for. I used the Viofo included USB Type-C power cable, and Viofo Car Charger. The Cellink Neo Plus APP indicated the Output Voltage / Amperage was 13.6 Volts / 0.7 Amps. The estimated run time was fluctuating between 11Hr 18Min, and 10Hr 49Min. I will update this in Post #3 when complete.

I guess you’re wondering why I just don’t install the camera, and get some sample footage already. Well, whenever I get a new piece of electrical equipment I like to bench test it it first, and run it for a few days through hot & cold cycles to make sure I don’t have a defective “lemon” before I go to the trouble of installing it in my car. Stay tuned for more testing.
-Chuck
 

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H.264 vs. H.254 Power Consumption & Heat & File Size Comparison

At the request of @Curious George I compared H.264 vs H.265 on the A139 Pro in relation to power consumption, heat, and file size.
My garage temp was 62℉ (16℃) 54% Humidity.

First I checked file size using an Official Viofo MLC 128GB SD Card. With the camera in 1-Channel configuration, normal recording mode, 4K 3840x2160P 30fps, Maximum Bitrate, 1 Minute Loop Record here are the results;
H.264 1 min = 437MB
H.265 1 min = 389.3MB (11% less)

Next using my official @rcg530 current measuring wire harness I connected the A139 Pro to my variable power supply with my Fluke 115 in circuit to measure power consumption. I let the camera run for 1 hour in normal recording mode Wi-Fi Off and measured an average of;
H.264 = 339mAh @ 12.60 Volts or 4.2714 Watts

I measured the temperature at;
H.264 = Temp 125℉ (51℃)

I enabled H.265, and let the camera run for another hour with identical settings.
I measured the power consumption at;
H.265 = 341mAh @ 12.60 Volts or 4.2966 Watts

I measured the temperature at;
H.265 = Temp 129℉ (53℃)
-Chuck
 

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I was curious how long the A139 Pro would run on the my BlackboxMyCar PowerCell 8 dash cam battery pack in 3-Channel configuration. I used identical camera settings as the power consumption tests.

Using the PC8’s Output Cable with CLA Socket, Viofo included car charger, and USB Type-C cable, the A139 Pro had a “normal recording mode” runtime of;
11 Hours 1 Minutes

Using the PC8’s Output Cable “unspliced” with Viofo Hardwire Kit HK3-C, the A139 Pro had a “Low Bitrate Parking Mode” run time of;
11 Hours 4 Minutes
 
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I have a nice LAB PSU too, but i have not seen it in over a decade, it is in my long term storage place.
Stil while it was expensive for who ever bought it in a store, it aint nothing compared to the newfangled stuff.
Also electricity while i do it for just about all i know, from 12 V car jobs to 220 V AC jobs, then its not really my strong suit. First time as a engineer on a ship i blacked out the whole damn thing tripping a huge 440V auto fuse and ended up on my ass from the flash.
I will also soon do the fence for my oldest niece cuz it seem she will get her horse soon ( any female in my family are bitten by a crazy horse ) THough that one will be easy as its just a solar unit and battery i have to connect + of course do the ground too.
 
A139 Pro vs. A129 Pro - Low Light Test

I wanted to confirm & verify the @viofo A139 Pro’s STARVIS 2 claims of superior low light performance, and I think I succeeded. I wanted to perform an experiment with controlled conditions to make this easy as possible.
I stuck the A139 Pro, and A129 Pro next to each other on a piece of wood. I set the cameras on top of my car 8 feet away from my work bench. I placed my 10 year old Streamlight Stinger HL LED flashlight with diffuser 4 feet behind the cameras as my light source because it has 3 power modes, (HIGH / MEDIUM / LOW).

The camera settings.
A139 Pro;
(3840 x 2160P) 30fps
Maximum Bitrate
HDR On (default setting)
CPL Filter On

A129 Pro;
(3840 x 2160P) 30fps
Maximum Bitrate
WDR Off (default setting)
CPL Filter On

Now’s the time I really wish I had proper editing software so I could edit both video samples into a split screen for a side by side comparison to show the process of me dimming the light source. But all that matters is the very last screenshot showing the difference of both cameras when the flashlight is on the LOW setting. I’ll put the two video links at the bottom.

The videos start out with the lights on in my garage, (six 4ft LED shop lights, and my flash light on HIGH). Then I turn off the shop lights, illuminating the room with only my flashlight on HIGH, then MED, then LOW, then OFF, then HIGH, then I turn the shop lights back on. Take a look at the two screenshots from each camera and you can see how much better the STARVIS 2 is.

In my next test I will try to confirm & verify the superior HDR capability of STARVIS 2.

-Chuck
 

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As an interesting testing side note I was able to coax a malfunction from the A139 Pro by turning HDR Off, and repeating the test. How cool is that? This takes me back tying to tune in “I Love Lucy” on my old 13” black & white RCA. lol
 
A139 Pro vs. A129 Pro - HDR Test

I wanted to confirm & verify the A139 Pro’s STARVIS 2 claim of superior HDR performance. I used the same set up rig from my low light test, but this time I needed two flashlights. One to simulate ambient, and one for “direct” light.

I placed my Streamlight Stinger HL LED flashlight with diffuser 4 feet behind the cameras to simulate ambient light. I used my Maglite ML300L LED to simulate “direct” light. As you can see in the video the the A129 Pro is “blinded” by the beam pattern from my Maglite ML300L, and anything under direct illumination it not visible.

However the A139 Pro is less affected by the beam pattern from my Maglite ML300L, and you can still make out objects under direct illumination.
-Chuck
 

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Now’s the time I really wish I had proper editing software so I could edit both video samples into a split screen for a side by side comparison to show the process of me dimming the light source.
That last video is good as it is, except it could do with some subtitles at the bottom to explain what is happening and which camera is in use, or some commentary.
 
Now’s the time I really wish I had proper editing software so I could edit both video samples into a split screen for a side by side comparison to show the process of me dimming the light source.
I'm pretty happy with Kdenlive on linux. This is free software. Not sure if it is available for other operating systems, but Linux is free too.
 
That last video is good as it is, except it could do with some subtitles at the bottom to explain what is happening and which camera is in use, or some commentary.
Right on Nigel,
I agree 100%. lol
I was relying on the text overlay at the bottom of the screen to identify which camera was what.
I guess Viofo may need to improve their text characters to make them more readable / visible. lol
-Chuck
 
I'm pretty happy with Kdenlive on linux. This is free software. Not sure if it is available for other operating systems, but Linux is free too.
The reason I don't have proper editing software is because I refuse to own a Windows PC for "reasons". lol
And I don't own a Mac for financial reasons.
All I have is a $100 Chromebook, and some smartphones. lol
-Chuck
 
A139 Pro - High Temperature Concern

I performed another “gentle” heat test of the A139 Pro in 3-Channel configuration on my work bench in my garage.
Outside temp was 39℉ (3℃) 85% Humidity.
Garage temp was 55℉ (12℃) 47% Humidity.
I let the camera run in normal recording mode.
After 10 hours of continuous operation the A139 Pro’s temp was 143℉ (61℃).
I checked the SD Card, and all the recorded video files were present, and playable with no malfunctions.

I powered down the A139 Pro, and disconnected the rear camera, leaving the IR interior camera connected. I let the A139 Pro run for 1 hour so the temperature could stabilize. In 2-Channel configuration the A139 Pro’s temp was 138℉ (58℃).

I powered down the A139 Pro, and disconnected the IR interior camera. I let the A139 Pro run for 1 hour so the temperature could stabilize. In 1-Channel configuration the A139 Pro’s temp was 113℉ (45℃).

You may remember my gentle heat testing this past summer of the A119 Mini & A229 Duo. The highest recorded temp was the A119 Mini at 149℉ (65℃). However these were under very different test conditions.
Outside temp was 106℉ (41℃).
Garage temp was 95℉ (35℃).

Shorty after the A119 Mini was released it was announced the A119 Mini “2nd Batch” would receive an upgraded microphone to fix a low volume audio issue, along with an upgraded heat sink to provide improved heat dissipation. Maybe the A139 Pro also needs an upgraded heat sink to improve heat dissipation.
-Chuck
 

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Maybe the A139 Pro also needs an upgraded heat sink to improve heat dissipation.
The case being hot on the outside means that the camera is using a lot of power, which we already know from the power consumption.

It does not tell us anything about the ability of the processor's heat sink, because however good the heatsink, the same amount of heat has to come out of the case, so the case will be the same temperature. A good heat sink will cool the processor and sensor better, but you can't see that from the outside.
 
I am a little reluctant calling a little piece of ALU a heat sink, but it is.
In the old days modifying computer GFX cards i put on even tinier heat sinks on the RAM modules and other components as the GPU itself had been fitted with water cooling.

I still refuse to believe that a heat sink like that inside a little plastic case, with very little in the way of ventilation can do much for cooling.
I can see such a heat sink removing heat from the immediate hot spots on a chip, but if there are no media to pass on that heat to i can only assume it only prolong the time before some equilibrium are reached.
It to me would be like water cooling your CPU but not having any radiator in the loop, or passive air cooling that rely on convection alone ( which you will not find much in the way of in a computer case ) or rely on what ever level of airflow there is generated by the case fans

Usually though this do not work for high end chips, and the cooler are also most often HUGE.
 
I can see such a heat sink removing heat from the immediate hot spots on a chip, but if there are no media to pass on that heat to i can only assume it only prolong the time before some equilibrium are reached.
It is not really a heatsink, it is a heat spreader, designed to remove those hot spots on the chips. There is no fan or radiator, and very little convection, so most of the heat comes out through the walls of the case. As it is only using a few watts, that is OK, as long as the heat doesn't get concentrated anywhere.

I don't see where they are using convective airflow to cool the case. A bunch of small holes in the case are not the answer. I would much prefer to see a case with a convective flow design were air enters, say on the bottom on a set of certain size holes or vents and exits at the top on a set of larger holes or vents.
The problem is that when sitting at the top of your windscreen on a hot summer day, there is no cool air to be drawn up, and nowhere above the dashcam for the hot air to disappear into, so convective airflow is not feasible.
 
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The reason I don't have proper editing software is because I refuse to own a Windows PC for "reasons". lol
And I don't own a Mac for financial reasons.
All I have is a $100 Chromebook, and some smartphones. lol
-Chuck
Why do you think I run Linux? :) Kdenlive does require lots of memory and horsepower though, so I doubt it would work well on a chrome book.
 
A139 Pro 1-Channel vs. 2-Channel File Sizes

Hey guys,
@rcg530 @Nigel @TonyM @runtohell121
During testing I noticed the file sizes of the front camera are different in normal recording mode, 1 vs. 2 channel configuration. The camera is set to 1 min loop, and Maximum bitrate. See attached screenshots.

Does this mean the camera is reducing image quality of the front camera when a second channel is connected? This is the first time I’m see this behavior, because my A229 Duo, A129 Pro, A129 Plus do not do this. Is this only a “feature” of the A139 Pro?
-Chuck
 

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That is a feature of the A139 Pro, full bitrate with 3 channels would result in overheating, so it turns the bitrate down, and yes, the image quality will reduce slightly at times when high bitrates are needed. It still does quite well on image quality though...
 
Thank you Nigel.
At first I thought it might be a malfunction, or an issue with my Chromebook.
-Chuck
 
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