Additional mounting bracket for SG9663DCPRO+ rear camera?

sitcomaudience

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After scouring the internet for a dashcam, I want to get a SG9663DCPRO+. But I own 2 cars and would like a dual camera system that I can move between cars since I can only drive one at a time. I think I can do this by just purchasing extra mounts, additional wires and either 2 wiring kits or an extra 12v power cord. (For the front cam I may be able to use the included thin mount on one car and the thick mount on the other and for the rear I may be able to use the included 3.5m cable on one car and the 6m cable on the other). But looking through Street Guardian's website I can't find a standalone mounting bracket for the rear camera that comes with the SG9663DCPRO+ setup. I plan to somehow rig this mount in between the seats of the roadster so it will work with the top up or down. I looked at the waterproof exterior camera option but I don't think that will work for me.

Hoping to get some help from @Street Guardian USA for the extra rear mounting bracket (and maybe get one of those sweet coupon codes I keep reading about around here).

I thought I'd post publicly in case anyone has something to add that I hadn't considered, especially about moving cams between cars and mounting that rear camera bracket to either the windscreen or the side of the passenger seat roll bar. Thanks.

Cars: 2017 Fiat 124 Spider & 2020 Subaru Outback
 

kamkar

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Damn talk about opposite cars there :)

I am sure the SG guys can whip something up for you.

EDIT : and welcome to the forum
 
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sitcomaudience

sitcomaudience

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Damn talk about opposite cars there :)

I am sure the SG guys can whip something up for you.

EDIT : and welcome to the forum
I'm in a northern state in the upper midwest of the US so we get all the seasons here. The roadster is great for tearing around the city and the countryside with the top down in the summer/fall while the AWD wagon is great for the heavy snow days and for loading up with camping gear, bikes and/or canoe. Thanks for the welcome!
 

87Camry

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So I keep my front cam on the suction cup mount just in case I want to take it off and transfer it to another car or hide it. I realized it is not the best solution for moving between cars since I have the main power cable run under the trim. However, I have noticed that the front video isn't as clear as the rear (since it doesn't sit flush against the glass) and I'm not sure the G-Sensor works as well on the suction cup mount. I hit a cut out portion in the road in a construction site and it didn't trigger even though it is set to high sensitivity (where my old one triggered for smaller cuts) I like using the suction cup as it makes it easier to access the buttons and confirm power is on behind the mirror and easier to adjust the angle if need be. Just my two cents

EDIT: The only button I really would need access to which I part of the reason I don't put it on the flat mount is the emergency lock button. I know the 663DR has the button as a stand alone . This would be a good solution for the DCpro+ but I'm assuming that it is not possible to add this accessory from the RC to the DC?
 
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jokiin

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This would be a good solution for the DCpro+ but I'm assuming that it is not possible to add this accessory from the RC to the DC?
not possible

most people that use the suction mount still use the normal mount in their main vehicle and only use the suction mount when they need to use in some other vehicle, for people that only switch between 2 cars they generally fit a mount in each and don't use the suction mount
 

kamkar

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Yeah the DR is a whole new beast due to its form factor, i have forgotten this too and i have one of them. :oops:

The DR system have a pigtail of wires, into which of them the 2 cameras go, and the power, and the GPS, and the remote event button, but these are all screw together kind of plugs.
The DR cameras do have mini USB plugs in the camera end, the GPS also use a conventional Jack plug to connect.

The DR and its many tails.

dr.jpg
 

Street Guardian USA

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Hi sorry for the delay was out of the office earlier. If you haven’t bought the DCpro+ yet I’m happy to toss in some spare mounts etc. just send me a direct message or email when you’re ready.
 

87Camry

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not possible

most people that use the suction mount still use the normal mount in their main vehicle and only use the suction mount when they need to use in some other vehicle, for people that only switch between 2 cars they generally fit a mount in each and don't use the suction mount
I figured as much. I'll play around with the mounts to see if I can find a better solution. especially since I press that save button frequently. I was having a lot of trouble removing the unit from the mounts. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. @jokiin is there a trick to it?
 
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87Camry

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Yeah the DR is a whole new beast due to its form factor, i have forgotten this too and i have one of them. :oops:

The DR system have a pigtail of wires, into which of them the 2 cameras go, and the power, and the GPS, and the remote event button, but these are all screw together kind of plugs.
The DR cameras do have mini USB plugs in the camera end, the GPS also use a conventional Jack plug to connect.

The DR and its many tails.

View attachment 56835
oof. Looks like the wires coming off the broadcast cameras where I work (although now with fiber cables, it has gotten a lot more condensed.
 
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sitcomaudience

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I was surprised that my dashcam got delivered yesterday after ordering it on Friday! Installation in the Fiat was a lot faster than I thought it would be. The 3.5m rear camera cable was the perfect length to mount the rear cam between the 2 seats and I get a good view with the top up or down. Hardwiring the fuse taps was simple with some help from the 124 Spider forum. Everything is nicely tucked under panels except about a foot behind the passenger seat where it comes up to the rear camera because I didn't want to drill a notch in the vinyl paneling.

I'll tackle wiring up the Subaru this weekend and and find out if I need to order the 8m cable for the rear camera. In my mind it feels like the 6m cable should be long enough but we'll see. The Outback forum has helped me identify potential accessory and always on fuses but I just need to figure out which is the hot side. I have my trusty multimeter but if anyone has wired a 2020 Outback let me know.

Street Guardian was great in helping me figure out what I need and helped me out with the extra mounts for the second car. I will definitely recommend them to anyone that asks.
 
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kamkar

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My friend had a Fiat classic once, the 131 Mirafiori, another of the guys had one too but made by seat.
I have once tried one of the genuine Fiat 500 which was pretty cool as at least for a Euro gear head is a classic.
And in my job in the 90ties we had a slew of the punto and other small Fiats as driverless cars on the ferries i worked on,,,,, it was more fun when a 911 or something like that turned up for transport.
 

SawMaster

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There have been numerous heated debates about which side of the fuse to tap here and elsewhere. All I will say is that given the very small added load of a dashcam it really doesn't matter. I've not heard of one single case where tapping the load side of a fuse for a dashcam caused a problem in the 5-6 years I've been rather deeply involved with dashcams. Larger loads yes- it matters then.

So do as you wish, but regardless the subject, beware those who spend too much time and effort defending their stance while they cannot point out one single instance of failure because of the opposite stance. Only results count- theories don't.

Phil
 
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sitcomaudience

sitcomaudience

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There have been numerous heated debates about which side of the fuse to tap here and elsewhere. All I will say is that given the very small added load of a dashcam it really doesn't matter. I've not heard of one single case where tapping the load side of a fuse for a dashcam caused a problem in the 5-6 years I've been rather deeply involved with dashcams. Larger loads yes- it matters then.

So do as you wish, but regardless the subject, beware those who spend too much time and effort defending their stance while they cannot point out one single instance of failure because of the opposite stance. Only results count- theories don't.

Phil

I don't want to reopen the arguments and I've seen those threads. But I don't think the metric should be whether or not there was a failure that you personally have knowledge of to determine the utility of doing it one way or another. The metric should be which orientation runs the current the correct way through each fuse individually as they were designed to do. It will take me 30 extra seconds to identify the hot side and do it the right way so why wouldn't I do it that way? This is a rhetorical question and like I said, I don't want to reopen the argument. Thank you for your input.
 

Deacon

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It’s easy to make sure you’re doing it right: put no more than a 2A fuse in the add-a-circuit being plugged into a 20A slot, and we’ll probably find out quickly. ;)
 
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