All wired up the PWM to the motor

mollydog

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little update now that more of the parts have arrived, I had to wait for the dremel saw bits to arrive to cut out the large hols in the ABS box, I didn’t fancy trying it with a Stanley knife and just as well I did, as it wan’t all that easy even with the dremel,

I think I made a good job, the option I’ve taken for now is to have power point at the top and power going to the motor at the side, this way I shouldn’t be getting the two mixed up


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the fitted the LED display and the speed control knob/switch, on /off button and the revers switch,


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after using it I found that the on/off switch is only good while it has power, as once you power the PWM up the controller powers the motor no mater how you left the on/off switch, as the revers switch has a centre off position I’ll be using that, but I could of saved myself some time and space in that tight box, not fitting that switch

all boxed up


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and here with power to the PWM


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for the motor housing I bought a ready made collar and plate, for the end of the motor I got hold of this cap and wired the female plug through the cap


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all the parts relating to the motor with the exception of the coil 12v dc relay and the two micro switches to make the motor revers once it gets to the end, I might have to make my own 80 x 80 x30 box for it if I can’t find one off the shelf


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As mentioned, I’m finding it difficult to find an ABS project box thats just big enough for the Coil DC12v Power Relay (to make the motor revers once it gets to the end) there are lots, but either just too big one side or the other, been looking for one thats about 80mm x 80mm x 30, and as yet no luck, but hopefully will be able to find one soon

here’s a clip of the PWM controlling the motor,


Just got to work out how I’l going to fix the GT2 belt at the ends, I’ve seen some 3D belt clips but I need to find a 3D print bureau near to me to explain what I need and what for

I’ve worked out that one full turn of the motor will more 50mm of belt, the motor at full speed with do 30revolutions per minute that will move from one end of the slider to the other in just under 50 seconds and at its slowest speed of one revolution per minute, as these motors are cheap, about £15 each, I’ll be getting another that has a speed of 15 revolutions per minute and if I still want another slower speed I’ll look out for one of around 6 to 8 revolutions per minute
 
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Thank you jokiin, if only I knew more about electronic's I'd be very happy, I have lots of idea’s I’d like to do , just I have to keep asking questions first to check my idea’s will work
 
A bit of an update, well after only a few weeks (maybe 6 weeks) the second YSD-998 12v DC battery pack that was sent to me, went belly up on me, dead as a door mouse, no reason just one moment its working the next dead. didn’t even get a chance to use it on the slider rail before it packed as I was still waiting for the belt clips to arrive

emailed the Chinese supplier on ebay with the usual back and forth chat that got me nowhere, said i wasn’t charging it right, as I’ve said before small ticket items from China I’ll take a chance on eBay.

so, been looking for other 12v DC power and came across this 12V DC battery



here’s the link:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lead-acid-rechargeable-batteries/5375488/

any opinions if it’ll do the job, before I order it?

yes from the UK this time, and cheaper than the YSD-998 from China
 
thank you jokiin, I'll order it later today, so should be with me by Tuesday morning
 
A battery like that one niko is what power the RC model of USS missouri of my friend i posted in the RC thread.

We never ran out of power for the 4 Graupner Speed 500 e marine motors, and there is allso servos on the big gun turrets so they can be turned back and forth.
The model is 17 Kg, but most of it is lead ballast to make it sit deep enuff in the water :)
 
Great work mate. Have you measured the draw to know how big a battery you need?

Also get a deep cycle AGM. SLA are designed to be on a constant float charge. They don't last very long with deep discharge cycles.

There are also LiFePo4 batteries. They are very light and can do very deep cycling... but a bit pricey.

Your controller sure kills my $10 PWM controller that i use for my dew heater and LED dimmer.

IMG_20150218_101347.jpg IMG_20150220_123513.jpg
 
This is the motor I will be using:




this is the specification of it from the sellers eBay page:

This 12v DC Powerful Reversible Motor is ideal for Arduino, Raspberry Pi and other Micro controller based Robotic Projects or just for Replacement

30 RPM High Torque Quiet Gear Box Motor

Torque: 120 N*cm
12V DC
200 - 600mA


@niko

size and weight, whilst not much more than the one I was looking at, is also a consideration as more often than not carting all the gear on my back to an out of the way location will soon add up, would the 12Ah of this one as opposed to the one I was thinking of (7Ah) be worth the extra weight and size?





@flip9 thank you for you complement, I’ve pasted the spec above of the motor the battery will be powering, sadly I don’t know much about electronics, so any information however trivial will be most welcome

took a look at some of the LiFePo4 batteries, most (for my amateur needs) are out of my price range, came across this one:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14074__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html


Spec.

Capacity: 8400mAh
Voltage: 4S2P / 13.2V

Discharge: 30C Constant / 40C Burst

Weight: 1026g (including wire, plug & case)

Dimensions: 150mm x 52mm x 70mm

Balance Plug: JST-XH

Discharge Plug: 5.5mm Bullet-Connector

@£60 isn’t out of my price range if its a better fit for my needs


this is the PWM I got off eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321804407053
only cost £11

as for charging these batteries I was planing on using my Aldi 12v DC trickle charger:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/p/92684/0

spec:

* Battery Type: 12V:1.2 Ah ~ 120Ah; 6V: 1.2Ah ~ 14 Ah
* Cord Length: Hidden cord
* Dimensions: 45 x 70 x 190 mm
* Material: Polycarbonate
* Power: Input Voltage: 230V AC, 50Hz, Input Power: 60 W
* Product Type: Car Accessories


as I mentioned, any help will be most welcome
 
You might be better off with a AGM battery in this case to simplify things. You already have the charger as well.

200-600mA is a fairly small draw for a motor. You might wanna get a multimeter to measure the actual draw of the whole circuit (controller included).

Lets say the draw of the circuit is 500mA at medium speed. 500mA x 10 hours constant runtime = 5Ah

The size of battery depends on how long you want it to run for (or how less you wanna be charging it)

You need to keep in mind AGM/deep cycle batteries shouldnt be discharged past 60% of their capacity. The deeper you discharge them the less cycles they will live for.

So in this case would get a 12Ah battery minimum if i want to run it for at least 10 hours straight. These are just averaged examples, it might draw a lot less that's why its important to know the exact draw of the circuit.
 
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thank you flip9, I'll put in the order for the "pro Deep Cycle Lead Acid Battery 12v 12AH that niko provided a link for, should be here but Tuesday morning,

I’ve seen these battery charge indicators on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201425007167
would one of these be of use with the battery I’ll be ordering?
 
thank you flip9, I'll put in the order for the "pro Deep Cycle Lead Acid Battery 12v 12AH that niko provided a link for, should be here but Tuesday morning,

I’ve seen these battery charge indicators on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201425007167
would one of these be of use with the battery I’ll be ordering?

I also have my eyes on Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery, but for my car. Never dealt with them before, but I have read a lot about them. Soon it's time to experience something new :)
 
I would get a basic voltmeter instead of a charge indicator. I have a feeling that indicator wont be accurate at all.

The batteries state of charge (SoC) is closely tied to its voltage. Follow this chart:

http://priuschat.com/attachments/battery-soc-chart-jpg.63864/

Just don't let the voltage fall below 12v and you'll be good.

I also have my eyes on Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery, but for my car. Never dealt with them before, but I have read a lot about them. Soon it's time to experience something new :)

Have a look at the Optima yellow top, its the best. It can be used as a starter battery and auxiliary battery.
 
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thank you for the link, I've saved the image, thats good advice,

@niko whats the advantage of using a Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery in a car? reason I ask is as I do have a few electrical items that still run for 5 or 10 minutes after switchingoff the car, (electric heater fan X2, electric coolant pump runsfor approx 2o minutes after ignition off) would one of these batteries be a better choice? as at the moment thecar has a Bosch S5 battery
 
thank you for the link, I've saved the image, thats good advice,

@niko whats the advantage of using a Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery in a car? reason I ask is as I do have a few electrical items that still run for 5 or 10 minutes after switchingoff the car, (electric heater fan X2, electric coolant pump runsfor approx 2o minutes after ignition off) would one of these batteries be a better choice? as at the moment thecar has a Bosch S5 battery

Just to clarify, I was into Gel type Deep Cycle Batteries. Everything I red is from Google search and I don't have practical experience yet with them, but I am tempted to try it out when my present car battery "dies".

 
true to their word, RSOnline had the Deep Cycle battery in my hands earlier today, I made a quick connection method for testing the battery out, when I get time I’ll make something more usable






before powering up the little 12v DC motor I connected the battery to my trickle charger and it showed the battery had 13v so I went ahead and connected everything up



the battery is a bit more meaty (heavy) than I would of liked, but if it will do the job then a small price to pay

maybe fit a voltage meter between the battery points and a socket for the motor



or maybe one that has USB plug attacher to it too





when I had planed on using the YSD-998 battery pack, the plan was to place the battery pack on the slider dolly, moving up and down with the camera/motor on the slider rail, but as this batter is a bit heavy, then I’ll have to make some sort of cradle at one end of the slider rail to hold this battery at one end, here’s a clip of this battery powering my slider motor


I haven’t finished yet, when I get this project finished, then I’ll start on my next project, motorising a camera dolly, something like this one, someone has made



my dolly will be based on this one (if its still available when I get round to buying it)




all these mounts/slider rail bits and bobs will work just fine with my SJ4000 and my Panasonic TZ60, but later, should I want to take this further, then I’ll have to see making these platforms sturdy enough to be able to use my Canon cameras with the L series lenses, and they aren’t light
 
@flip9 This is reason why I’m DIY my motorised slider rail, as an amateur in time-lapse I can’t justify their high costs, when I was a pro photographer it was different and in the days of film, I had four or five Hasselblads to work with

Just followed your link, I never thought of that, (putting the battery in a case) now you’ve given me some more ideas, as I see you’ve also fitted the volt meter that has USB plugs too, when I saw these volt meters I was wondering how I was going to keep them fixed near the battery, but never crossed my mind about using a case

here are a few of my threads in regards to slider rails, I got hold of one off eBay, just before Christmas it should of been £95, but eBay had a 20% off everything so got it for about £75, it’s 120CM long

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/wiring-in-a-digital-led-display.15332/#post-206346

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/motoriseing-camera-slider-help-with-wiring.16639/

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/update-motorised-head.13251/

so now I’m on the look out not for a cradle for the battery but a case
 
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