Amacam Hardwire Kit Fitting(Sorry!)

Bucksend

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Hi all,

First off, I know this topic has been covered over and over but I am really struggling to find out what I need to, most topics end up talking about fuse replacement/piggyback kits...

So I was bought a Dash Cam (Amacam M-80) and hard wire kit for my birthday and want to install it. I am happy with routing the cable but not sure where to go to. I would like it on an ignition live. If it makes any difference I drive a 57 plate Ford Focus.

The hard wire kit I have:
USB for Camera - Voltage box - Single black wire with bare end
- Two wires twisted together and fixed to a 'U' shaped crimp type end

Am I right in thinking the bare end wire needs to be grounded against the car body(simply undo a bolt and tuck it in before tightening again?)

My question really relates to the double wire. If I find a cable that is ignition only (wipers or something?) near the fuse box whats my best way of connecting? I assume both cables need to be attached to the same wire. Am I best cutting the 'U' shaped end off, twisting the bare ends together and fixing it to a bit of bare wire(cut away the plastic to reveal this on the right wire)

I hope this all makes sense and that someone can give me the probably simple advice I need, once again, sorry to go over this but I know nothing about electrics and don't want 12v in my fingers!

Thank,

Adam
 
Not sure why it has two wires together, double confusion when they have a spade terminal on them, those would be the power wires, the black wire is the one that should have a spade terminal, got to wonder what some of these manufacturers think sometimes
 
I did think it was odd as the spade terminal would be easy to put under a nut to ground it. Do those cables need to be together though or should I separate them?
 
It would be very interesting to know what is the idea behind this double wire.
And Adam, you were doing it right.
 
So what is normal then? just out of interest.

And just to confirm I am right to
  • Ground the black single wire
  • Disconnect the spade terminal and twist the wires together
  • Splice onto an ignition only wire (Any advice on best place to find this or what colour it should be etc.?)
I am sure once I get into it I will find a way and get it done. Thanks for all your helps guys
 
Yes that's pretty much it, where you take power from depends on the vehicle but you're on the right track
 
I don't understand the two wires either unless it's something to do with the low voltage detect that the seller claims this unit has but still can't really see why it would need two wires for power?

I would either get a different hardwire kit (they are only a tenner although I think another member here has had problems with the generic ones you get from Amazon when trying to power his Mobius) or if you are going to use this then I'd definitely recommend using some add-a-circuits to make sure everything is better protected and it's a more professional job than wrapping the wires around a leg of the fuse - and impossible if your car has low profile mini blade fuses. I'm not keen on splicing into car wires and prefer the non-invasive and probably safer method of add-a-circuits. Halfords do the standard size ones if you don't want to wait for delivery, although a few pounds more expensive than Amazon, but if you want cheaper or if it's Mini blade fuses then Amazon do them for a few quid. If you do splice into the wires it may be worth putting an additional inline fuse into the mix.

http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-blade-add-a-fuse
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/B00YSMPA24https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/1550063227

If you don't have a multimeter to test the fuses to find an ignition only fuse then the easiest way is to simply see what works with the ignition on and then turns off when you turn the car off. Interior lights are usually always live as they will work when the ignition is off so they are generally no good for this. Check the cigarette light adapter and see if it stops working when you turn the car off. Then you just use your cabin fuse box chart to find the ciggy fuse. Also try things like a rear windscreen wiper fuse etc. Avoid anything critical to the car or safety such as fuses for ECU stuff, airbag fuses etc. Just in case there's a short and the main OEM fuse blows you don't want to risk effecting these critical components.

Just to throw a spanner in the works, some cars retain power to certain fuses for 10-20 minutes after switching off the ignition such as BMWs. But that would only concern you if you were installing a battery protect device and need an always on fuse.




Alternatively, if worried about this double wire thing you could change kits completely, Maplin do a Nextbase hardwire kit which seems pretty good quality to me, the wires seem to be fairly decent gauge and it also comes with a standard and also a mini add-a-circuit. It's a Mini USB connector though so you'd have to pick up their Mini-Micro USB adapter also at a few quid but as you've saved on the add-a-circuits it cancels out the cost. We've fitted about 9 of them into some trucks.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/nextbase-dash-cam-hardwire-kit-a45tx
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-usb-mini-to-micro-adapter-a72qf
 
My two cents.. Going "only" by the ends prepared by the manufacturer the spade is the ground and the black wire is the power supply. The black end is prepared for you to attach it to an inline fuse that then goes to a power source. My thoughts on the double ground (the ones connected by the spade connector) is that it completes the circuit and grounds the body of the device.
 
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Suspect the spade terminal is on the wrong wires, not the first time I've seen this
Could be.. but then what is the purpose of two power supply wires? Confusing kit for sure.
 
Conversely, why would it have two earth wires, either way I'd be checking this carefully before use, there's a few red flags already
 
surely if it was an error or mistake the product image would be correct and different?
 
Conversely, why would it have two earth wires, either way I'd be checking this carefully before use, there's a few red flags already
I am speculating that one wire completes the circuit and one wire grounds the body perhaps to reduce any interference produced by the electronics that reduce the voltage.
 
I wonder if it's possible that the device was originally used for something else and it's just been adapted (or perhaps unadapted) for this? I'm thinking something like a reverse camera where there would be an extra wire to connect and detect when the car is put into reverse?
 
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