Any Radio interference with the hardwire kit?

Just as a data point - I wired in my 0906 properly today and suddenly I gained a load of interference on FM and lost DAB altogether.

A bit of jigging around and I discovered the run of the cable was running right next to the FM aerial cable along the driver's side and was actually touching the DAB aerial around the windscreen. So - I switched the run down the passenger side. This resulted in perfect DAB, but still quite a bit of FM interference. The FM was *only* affected when the rear camera was plugged in though.

I'm using the old power cable from my mini 0803 right now - so not the new hardwire kit.

I experimented with different rear camera cable positioning and it was only when I had the rear cable running away from the aerial at a right angle did the interference drop - but it was still present. When the FM signal was strong - it was great, but in a slightly weaker area (where normally it would be fine) - I was getting lots of pops and interference. With it at non-right angles - it simply wasn't listenable to.

I also swapped to a cigarette lighter power supply and that helped too (e.g. it improved the weak signal) so it's got me wondering if it's power cable related. E.g. when the rear camera is in - it causes more power draw and the increase is the problem. I couldn't conclusively determine either today.

I've ordered some ferrite beads to wrap around all 3 cables (power, aerial and rear camera) to see if that helps. If not - I'll see what happens when the new hardwire kit arrives and I'll see if that makes any difference. I will add them a cable at a time and see if I can isolate the problem.
 
On the roof, in the middle rear, entry point into the car body is no more than 3-4 inches from where the rear camera cable also comes through (borrowed the same hole as the rear-light power). It then heads to the right and down the drivers side of the car (based in UK). I didn't trace it all the way to the head unit - I just followed it back to the aerial point once I realised I had routed it beside a cable on first attempt.

The car is a 2014 Toyota Auris hatchback - so the rear camera is located just below the rear high brake light, the cable is then threaded around the brake light, into the boot door interior, through the rubber joint with the rear light power cables and that leads into the car body (in the roof). Once here - it heads to the left and down the passenger side. The extra cable is coiled at the boot end. It stays near the edge of the headliner all the way down to the front windscreen where it routs along the top and then down in the middle of the windscreen to the main camera.

I can't find perfect images - but these give you an idea - this is the with the boot open - so the thick rubber hose is where the cable is routing through:

http://teknikensvarld.se/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/toyota-auris-touring-sports-1-2t-06.jpg

And these two show the position of the aerial:

http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2012/08/012013toyotaauris.jpg
http://d1r57ja1amoclf.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Auris-64-rear-end-e1426087507539.jpg
 
Indeed - the problem is that even if I moved the camera to (say) the bottom of the rear windscreen, it's likely the actual cable would still follow the same route to the interior of the car as I need a route for it where it can expand/contract as the boot opens and closes, and doesn't risk getting pinched or caught in the boot door, so using one of the pre-existing tubing points is the best idea.

So at best, I'd just have a longer run of the cable running round the outside of the windscreen.

Anyway - the ferrite beads should be here tomorrow - so we'll see whether they help to reduce the interference.
 
So - I tried the ferrite beads in various combinations. Almost no difference.

Three things helped (a bit):
1) I detached the aerial cable from it's run and pushed it further back into the car
2) I moved the power cable so it hung down from the roof rather than hidden in the headliner. This *really* helped on one or two frequencies. This was running right next to the rear camera cable. A bit of tweaking and I was able to get the cables to share the run on that frequency.
3) I also changed where the rear camera cable emerged onto the windscreen - that seemed to help.

Basically - each adjustment I make that improves one station will worsen another. I've got it to a good midpoint so I can live with it now.
 
great practices
 
So - I tried the ferrite beads in various combinations. Almost no difference.

Three things helped (a bit):
1) I detached the aerial cable from it's run and pushed it further back into the car
2) I moved the power cable so it hung down from the roof rather than hidden in the headliner. This *really* helped on one or two frequencies. This was running right next to the rear camera cable. A bit of tweaking and I was able to get the cables to share the run on that frequency.
3) I also changed where the rear camera cable emerged onto the windscreen - that seemed to help.

Basically - each adjustment I make that improves one station will worsen another. I've got it to a good midpoint so I can live with it now.

I have had similar problems with the F70/i1000 dashcam I installed in my father's car. Ferrite chokes did nothing for me as well. What helped most was wrapping electrical tape around the wire closest to the antenna. I also moved the cable as far away from the antenna as possible. Both had a positive effect, but nothing near as good as simply unplugging the cam completely. If the cam is unplugged, all the stations come in clear as a bell. As soon as the cam is running, there is static and popping, and it is better or worse depending on the strength of the radio signal from the tower.

One thing I was thinking about doing that I haven't tried yet is to insulate the wires for the antenna themselves with electrical tape and adding ferrite chokes.
 
So - quick radio interference update.

It was primarily: the power supply.

I put in the new parking guard kit removing the old power supply. Most stations were now clear as a bell where they weren't previously.

The old power kit had the converter right up in the headliner where the rear camera cable was also running. So I'm thinking this was a case of two stage interference. 1) The power cable interfered on the rear cable which, in turn 2) interfered with the aerial cable running down the other side of the car.
 
r
So - quick radio interference update.

It was primarily: the power supply.

I put in the new parking guard kit removing the old power supply. Most stations were now clear as a bell where they weren't previously.

The old power kit had the converter right up in the headliner where the rear camera cable was also running. So I'm thinking this was a case of two stage interference. 1) The power cable interfered on the rear cable which, in turn 2) interfered with the aerial cable running down the other side of the car.

Great news!!
It shows Rayman's power supplies are reasonably good quality. I have just installed another mini 0906 with hardwire kit in our family run around (Fiesta) this afternoon and was concerned when I ran power and rear camera cables close to the aerial cable but on testing radio reception is perfect. :)
 
I have 3 of those kits although not purchased from AliExpress and have no problem with either DAB or FM. It probably comes down to placement of unit and cable run away from antenna leads.
 
I will need to do some experiments because I have no idea where I find accurate antenna routing for European version of Subaru Outback MY15, I found US version but it doesn't include DAB radio so I have no idea where they have placed it.
 
It looks like DAB radio interference is coming from DCDC because it doesn't stop when I disconnect front camera from DCDC. DAB only comes back when I disconnect fuse tap. Maybe mine is defective I will need to buy another. Which one would you recommend for mini 0906?
 
Yes, I even unplugged front cammera and interference was still there, it was only gone when I unplugged DCDC from my fuse box.
 
unusual, maybe the hardwire kit is faulty, where did you position the black box with the switches on it?
 
I glued it close to the hood release below stearing wheel, I also added 2 ferrite cores one on USB cable and one on 3 cables together.
 
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