Debugging wont help with most of the issues and that is because a lot of people install this, complain on forums that product is faulty but from what they write, they clearly don't have a clue what they are doing.
You should only, only install this of you know what you are doing. There are workshops that will install it for you, if you have complaints you can go see them.
The ACC wire is just a trigger wire that will communicate to the cam, i'm off or I'm on, this ONLY works if its connected directly to the cam, not the base/GPS =>this will just tell the cam parking mode or not parking mode
The 12V line always gives power to the unit, doesn't matter if the cam is on/of
If the led in the hardwire kit (not cam) is off then the kit has gotten a low voltage, it will require a high voltage before it will start feeding the cam again. The dashcam has nothing to do with this, is just plain electronics used as a safety.
If you have corrupted images or you are sure the dashcam remains on and the hardwire kit is still lit while not even touching the car and keeping the keys far away from the car (important)
check the flash memory SD card for corruption with some software that will write and read the card multiple times that it produces no errors.
Flash memory like SD cards do NOT like to be used in a dashcam, they are being written (never read) over and over and over again. Flash memory it's biggest weakness is that it gets destroyed fast when written, that's why modern SSD's have complex controllers and they should never be defragmented, to keep the writing low.
A normal SD card should NOT be used in a dashcam, they will get destroyed in a matter of weeks, 3 months if you have a good one.
You do need the long endurance versions but even so, continuous writing and operating between those heats, don't expect that SD card to live for years and years, it will wear out fast.
Also only and only buy them from a seller you are sure to trust without any doubt, the market is flooded with fake SD cards that are non disguisable from the real ones. Don't use Amazon or any other reseller.
And yes, that SD card will cost you a lot and yes it may cost more then the dash cam itself. Go buy a SD card for a security camera's, 64GB, it can set you back over a 1000$ but those will work for 5 years straight 24/24 7/7 without any issues and even if you buy that pricey long endurance SD card from a retailer, if it works 2 years 7/7 24/24 with 4k recording, consider it top quality if it breaks a day after.
For the hardwire kit that goes off, it means either power was cut completely or it dipped.
That sound pretty simple but it isn't,
- once the kit tripped it may require 13V or more to get it going again (its meant as a safety)
- your 12V battery will loose power when temperatures drop and gain power when it rises => the hardwire kit may trip during the night while in the morning you have sufficient power.
- While 12.8V is a fully loaded (normal) car battery and 11.8 is completely dead battery those numbers are ONLY truth if you are measuring DIRECTLY on the battery, not fuses, if something is drawing power on the circuit before you measure, that 12.8V may dip to 12.2V while the battery is still at 12.8V. That is also the reason you have the 11.8 option, that is not the select me if i'm stupid. No, you can use it but only if you are sure the battery is at 0.5V higher then where you are measuring. Unless you are on the main fuses but you should never use those.
- But it gets worse, modern cars do not turn off like they used to. It is even possible that a brand new car will not support the hardwire kit because it will power all fuses 24/24 7/7, 12V sigaret is starting to disappear. The onboard electronics will communicate and will go in power saving when they want and they will come out of power saving when they want. That also means that suddenly something may be turned on that will dip the circuit that my cause the hardwire to trip(if you are not directly on the battery) or suddenly your live fuse is not live any more. (cars that do this will often do this at a set time, 30 minutes after closing for example)
- But it gets even more worse, because all those electronics consume battery power and classic car battery's are not designed for cycling, you get dual battery cars where you have a very small lithium battery that is being used only to power onboard electronics when parked. The main 12V may be cut off. So what may be happening is that the small lithium battery is dropping, the hardwire safety trips and remains off, then the car activates the main 12V battery and you measure a good 12.7V directly on the battery.
-But it gets even more worse, yes indeed, now most new cars are at least mild hybrids having at least some sort of 48V system to recupurate energy from braking. These are not sold as hybrids because the don't run on electricity, it may just be use for turbo charging or to help a bit. Then you have hybrids with 400V battery's or even full ellectric vehicles that still have both 12V as 400V.
The issue is that now we have smart electronics that sleep and don't sleep as they choose, we also have multiple batteries, but now you also get a DC to DC converter in the car that will also communicate and turn off & on when it wants to change 48V/400V to 12V or the other way arournd.
To conclude it's very difficult to troubleshoot, they use electronics that control power because power is getting so complex these days in cars, those power controls may even simply detect an "illegal" draw and power cycle the circuit tripping the hardwire kit. Also getting close with a key without doing anything may wake up all kind of electronics. Using pre climate control, programmed or not will cause major changes in how and where power is coming from and in case of a hybrid/EV , it is possible that you don't have a classic car battery anymore. And to keep all that power clean and crispy, voltage regulators.
But if the dashcam itself just turns off while powered, then it crashed and it will either reboot and continue to record or it will keep dead until you remove power to force it to reboot.