Anyone ever install a seperate fuse block?

Lola

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Just wondering about this since I'm probably going to have more then 2 cameras in the end:cool:. I've never seen mention of how you guys hook up when you have 3 or 4 separate cameras.
A fuse block would probably make sense in these situations, what do you think?
 
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If your planning to hardwire multiple cams plus other 12v accessories (CB radio, GPS, voltmeter) then a fuse block is a good option. It frees up the cig plug and removes cabin clutter.

Heres a list of stuff needed
- 6 way fuse block w/ negative bar - http://a.co/cqVFQ8c
- 30A fused relay (or 30A inline fuse & cabin switch for manual control) - http://a.co/4qJ5QCT
- 5mm² twin core auto cable
- Terminal connectors/crimps
 
If your planning to hardwire multiple cams plus other 12v accessories (CB radio, GPS, voltmeter) then a fuse block is a good option. It frees up the cig plug and removes cabin clutter.

Heres a list of stuff needed
- 6 way fuse block w/ negative bar - http://a.co/cqVFQ8c
- 30A fused relay (or 30A inline fuse & cabin switch for manual control) - http://a.co/4qJ5QCT
- 5mm² twin core auto cable
- Terminal connectors/crimps

Hi flip9, I was wondering about it, I guess the other guys are probably right. It's cheaper to just use a multi connection USB, at least that's the way it looks to me now, I'm definitely just trying to learn all these things to consider.
 
Yeap nothing wrong with the cig plug USB option, its cheap and simple.

The only issue i had with mine was the whole plug would sometimes come loose when i unplugged a USB cable. Make sure you get one that fits in snug otherwise you might find yourself driving around with the cams off.
 
Yeap nothing wrong with the cig plug USB option, its cheap and simple.

The only issue i had with mine was the whole plug would sometimes come loose when i unplugged a USB cable. Make sure you get one that fits in snug otherwise you might find yourself driving around with the cams off.

I cured that problem by adding two small dabs of hot gun glue to the sides of the plug. Trim with an X-Acto knife until it adds just enough friction to hold the plug tightly in place. Works great and I have not had an issue since.
 
Hi flip9, I was wondering about it, I guess the other guys are probably right. It's cheaper to just use a multi connection USB, at least that's the way it looks to me now, I'm definitely just trying to learn all these things to consider.
With the image I posted of the 4 USB adaptor, I cut off the lighter socket plug and put a fuse tap on instead, that 12v cable runs from the fuse box to the roof where the 4 USB adaptor sits, then the cameras only need short USB cables - 0.5m to the front window and 1.8m to the back window.
 
...I cut off the lighter socket plug and put a fuse tap on instead,...
Good idea, I like it. Would make for a much neater install.

(Just make sure that the 12V to 5V conversion doesn't happen in the plug though or some big surprises will be in order... :eek: )
 
With the image I posted of the 4 USB adaptor, I cut off the lighter socket plug and put a fuse tap on instead, that 12v cable runs from the fuse box to the roof where the 4 USB adaptor sits, then the cameras only need short USB cables - 0.5m to the front window and 1.8m to the back window.
Hi Nigel, another great idea, I'll have to keep that in mind!
Originally and currently, I have a Vico Power Plus, I'm going to cut off my original truck cig plug, and use the Vico plug in its place in the dash. Then connect the Red and Yellow wires via Add-A-Circuit's to the fuse box, black (Gnd) to a good ground bolt. This should work OK.
I'm only going to run the cameras in Loop so I am not totally sure if I have to hook up the red and yellow, but to get the Vico to work correctly I will hook both up to the fuse box, ACC and Battery.
 
Yeap nothing wrong with the cig plug USB option, its cheap and simple.

The only issue i had with mine was the whole plug would sometimes come loose when i unplugged a USB cable. Make sure you get one that fits in snug otherwise you might find yourself driving around with the cams off.

Hi flip9, I forgot who told me this here on the forum, it probably was Nigel or saw master. Wrap electricians tape around the cig receptical (female part) good and snug till it fits well.
Usually there is an apparatus on the rear of the female plug that keeps it from fully sliding out/forward, if you don't have one on yours you can tie a overhand knot in the cable that comes into the rear to keep it from sliding forward, but do wrap with tape for snugness.
 
I bought this Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block ST Blade with Ground Cover https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00WM2MWQ4
It has a connector for both an ACC and Batt connection so I can hardwire cams with those required connections and I don't have to keep wasting add a circuits. I bought some o ring connectors to make connecting new devices quick and easy for testing.
 
I bought this Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block ST Blade with Ground Cover https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00WM2MWQ4
It has a connector for both an ACC and Batt connection so I can hardwire cams with those required connections and I don't have to keep wasting add a circuits. I bought some o ring connectors to make connecting new devices quick and easy for testing.

What are the o-ring connectors, also how did you hook up the Blue Sea system, did it take other parts?
 
Its just your usual O-ring crimp connectors so wires can be screwed down to the fuse block.
Kgrppn-ro.jpg
 
With the image I posted of the 4 USB adaptor, I cut off the lighter socket plug and put a fuse tap on instead, that 12v cable runs from the fuse box to the roof where the 4 USB adaptor sits, then the cameras only need short USB cables - 0.5m to the front window and 1.8m to the back window.

Nigel, instead of a fuse tap and running cable to the fuse box, couldn't it be wired directly into the interior light wiring in the roof top?



Its just your usual O-ring crimp connectors so wires can be screwed down to the fuse block.
Kgrppn-ro.jpg
LOLAL, When you said O-Rings, my mind went to rubber O rings or something I didn't know about, but now that I see what you are talking about, it's funny :D
 
Nigel, instead of a fuse tap and running cable to the fuse box, couldn't it be wired directly into the interior light wiring in the roof top?
Probably, yes, if the lamp has a good power supply, which most do seem to have.

In my car the interior light is driven direct from the car's computer and includes a dimming circuit that fades the light out, I don't want to risk pulling power from that, might kill the computer and thus the car. The lamp does have a good ground though so I could have run a single red 12V wire down the A-pillar to the fusebox conveniently located at the bottom of the A-pillar. The 12V plug that goes into the back of the unit is a standard one as used by security cameras/computer speakers/routers etc., easy to make up your own cable.

LOLAL, When you said O-Rings, my mind went to rubber O rings or something I didn't know about, but now that I see what you are talking about, it's funny :D
Same, I've never heard them called O rings before. 'Ring terminals' would be OK.
 
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