Anyone using a Cellink B ?

[Andy Moore]

It's just a much better solution but costly

 

[deputydog95]

Can you go the other way around?

For instance, use your car battery till it hits 12.5 and then have it deplete the cell link?

12 volts is dangerously low on a car battery. Should be 12.7-8 at rest.

 

[Andy Moore]

No, not that I am aware of

 

[deputydog95]

No, not that I am aware of

Apparently the new power magic battery pack is designed to work like that. Drain the car battery to a present voltage and then the battery pack kicks on. I think I'm going to just go with a celllink B and have it setup to never touch the car battery. I'm not looking for the hassle of replacing my car battery annually...

 

[Erling]

Andy, this is the same?

http://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-battery-pack/

Seems to be a great product.

 

[Andy Moore]

This is something new to me - grammar on add is appalling though

 

[Erling]

None of the sellers listed has it in stock, have to wait a few weeks and see.

 

[deputydog95]

I ordered a cellink B last night. The BV one (rebranded T power or something like that) hits your car battery down to at a min 12.5 volts. After talking to my installer, he said that is a significant drain to do on a daily basis.

In larger cars, he actually installs a deep cycle motorcycle battery which will last damn near a week. I don't have the room for that, not to mention the expense would be off the charts.

The CL B seems to be the best choice. And you can always add more CL B's by daisy chaining them to get more time.

 

[Andy Moore]

That's not a real Cellink B is it ?

Looks nothing like mine and seems to work totally the opposite. Surely it will
knacker your car battery with constant discharges ?

 

[BlackVue Australia]

I ordered a cellink B last night. The BV one (rebranded T power or something like that) hits your car battery down to at a min 12.5 volts. After talking to my installer, he said that is a significant drain to do on a daily basis.

In larger cars, he actually installs a deep cycle motorcycle battery which will last damn near a week. I don't have the room for that, not to mention the expense would be off the charts.

The CL B seems to be the best choice. And you can always add more CL B's by daisy chaining them to get more time.

It wasn't a Cellink you ordered. You ordered a T-Power Plus unit, quite different from a Cellink-B. It should still work OK to a certain point just set the cut-off voltage fairly high at ~12.5Volts so it doesn't discharge your cars battery to lower than that on a daily basis.

 

[deputydog95]

It wasn't a Cellink you ordered. You ordered a T-Power Plus unit, quite different from a Cellink-B. It should still work OK to a certain point just set the cut-off voltage fairly high at ~12.5Volts so it doesn't discharge your cars battery to lower than that on a daily basis.

You must be confusing me with someone else

From my receipt:

All of the items from order #6406 will be shipped out:

1x [Ultimate Dash Cam Battery] Cellink Battery B/Cellink Expansion Pack 2nd Generation - Cellink Battery B 2.0 / ACC Hardwire Cable

 

[Andy Moore]

deputydog95, did you not put this above ?

I ordered a cellink B last night. The BV one (rebranded T power or something like that) hits your car battery down to at a min 12.5 volts. After talking to my installer, he said that is a significant drain to do on a daily basis.

 

[deputydog95]

deputydog95, did you not put this above ?

I ordered a cellink B last night. The BV one (rebranded T power or something like that) hits your car battery down to at a min 12.5 volts. After talking to my installer, he said that is a significant drain to do on a daily basis.

I did

 

[CarlF]

Why do people assume draining your car battery to 12.5 or even 12v is dangerous? Your car is a 12v system.

Yes 12.7-12.8 is ideal (and means your battery is at 100% charge). But 12.5 or even 12v is not dangerous.

Setting the voltage to 12.5v and letting it drain to that will not cause any problems.

I use a power magic pro. It's set to shut off at 11.8v or 12hrs. Car starts fine no problems, even when it's been -5oC.

 

[Andy Moore]

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V
100% 1.265 12.7
75% 1.225 12.4
50% 1.190 12.2
25% 1.155 12.0
Disch 1.120 11.9
- See more at: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html#sthash.xH6sWa79.dpuf

 

[CarlF]

Well I've checked the state of charge with a voltage meter and my car started with a reading of 11.9v. Do you really think a car with a 12v system would be so sensitive as to not start at 11.9v?

My car is a Mercedes and they can be picky with power. Still has never had a problem at 11.9v nor has my previous Mercedes.

 

[arcticfire]

I'm the same, never had a problem with any of my batteries in any of my cars which had dashcams running 24/7. Current car has an AGM battery which I think are less prone to sulfatio. You could also have a battery with a high CCA figure which will also help.

 

[deputydog95]

Well I've checked the state of charge with a voltage meter and my car started with a reading of 11.9v. Do you really think a car with a 12v system would be so sensitive as to not start at 11.9v?

My car is a Mercedes and they can be picky with power. Still has never had a problem at 11.9v nor has my previous Mercedes.

You battery is smoked or your meter is broken. Resting state should be 12.7-8.

I would be surprised if you are getting a year or two out of your car batteries running it so low all the time. I'm guessing you don't live in a cold climate? This isn't about your system's requirements, as the car will crank... It's about the health of your car battery.

I don't want to compromise the integrity of my battery to keep a dash cam running. Nothing worse than having to be somewhere, only to find out the car won't start....

 

[CarlF]

You battery is smoked or your meter is broken. Resting state should be 12.7-8.

I would be surprised if you are getting a year or two out of your car batteries running it so low all the time. I'm guessing you don't live in a cold climate? This isn't about your system's requirements, as the car will crank... It's about the health of your car battery.

I don't want to compromise the integrity of my battery to keep a dash cam running. Nothing worse than having to be somewhere, only to find out the car won't start....

Battery is fine and just over 3yrs old. The meter is fine and is accurate. I don't run it so low all the time. I said the car will start fine when it's read 11.9v.

I live in the UK. I think some on here are being a bit over dramatic about voltages.

A 12v Battery is categorically not 'smoked' if it reads 12, 11.9 or 11.8v when cold! It just needs a charge. The problem arises when they won't hold a charge.

I use a CTEK Charger once a year to recondition the battery. It's a Varta 12v 95AH 850EN AGM battery and the car has start/stop technology.

Edit:

I drove to my parents yesterday morning. A distance of 117miles. The car is normally driven round town during the week so doesn't do many long journeys.

The car has been stood still for about 30hrs now and this is the current voltage at 6oC outside temp. So I think I'm ok. The last recondition was in June last year so will do it again in June this year. Car is 3yrs and 2mths old.

 

[jokiin]

I live in the UK. I think some on here are being a bit over dramatic about voltages.

you car has a deep cycle battery, it's a bigger problem for traditional lead acid batteries