Automatic power + switch for manual power

Hmm that was from 2 years ago. I've done bench testing with manual voltage control and haven't experienced that.
 
OK, sounds like maybe it was an older hardware revision, or that particular person's setup then, who knows.

In your bench testing, what happened when you immediately raised the "battery" voltage directly after a shutoff? The multisafer just stayed off then?

I would hope there would be some kind of latch where the device would just stay off until it receives voltage from ACC line in again (e.g. car is turned on)
 
If you don't mind running the risk of leaving it switch on and draining the battery then perhaps this might work, but I'm not 100% sure:

You could buy a cheap hardwire kit for less than $10 on Amazon and run two separate feeds into it using add-a-circuits. You have to use the hardwire kit and not wire directly otherwise you'll be putting 12V straight into the dash cam which will fry it. If you want to go ultra cheap then you can wire into the cigarette adapter that comes with the dash cam by unscrewing the end and tapping into the relevant parts, we've done this for a trial but it's not very attractive or secure.

  • One feed from a fuse which only comes on with the ignition
  • One feed from a fuse which is always on and put the inline switch into this circuit

Both circuits will feed the hardwire kit whilst running the car but the hardwire kit will regulate the output to the camera automatically to 5V and 1.5A. When you switch off the ignition the feed from the always on circuit will still be live but whether or not it allows power into the hardwire kit and onwarwds to your camera will depend on if the inline switch is set to on or off.


So all you need is the following which should be doable for around $15 all in:

x1 Hardwire Kit (12-24V input type)
x2 Bullet Connectors
x1 Butt Connector
x1 Ring Connector (not 100% necessary but neater and more secure for connecting the ground)
x2 Add-a-Circuit (either mini or regular sized blades depending on your car's fuse box)
x1 Inline Switch
x2 pieces of wire that can handle say 5A (speaker wire can be used)


I'd recommend having a multimeter to hand to test outputs at the various points but it would be really good if someone with electrical knowledge could verify if this would work or if it's going to fry the hardwire kit or if it simply won't be able to draw the current properly due to the split? The add-a-circuit fuses will protect your car OEM circuits and the hardwire kit has an inline fuse which should protect your dashcam and also the hardwire box so it should be safe, I just don't know if it will actually work though.

I think the voltage will be in parallel so it should stay at 12V but even if it's in series it will only be 24V which the hardwire kit can handle. I think the current would double if in parallel (remains the same in series) but that shouldn't matter either because of the hardwire kit. Or I could be talking total crap here? lol


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NOT such a good idea..

when you flick your switch on the power will fire around and switch any ancillary stuff on that happens to be connected to your ACC circuit ...
 
I used a 12,2v Battery Protector, 2 bypass (one continous power and one contact power) + a on/on switch, Total cost €20,-

From the bypass with contact power + to the switch. From the bypass with continous power + to the other side of the switch. The two + coming from the switch ,combined together, to the + of the Battery Protector. The ground of the batteryprotector to the chassis. And from the batteryprotector there is a USB cabel with Mini B to the dashcam.

Switch to the left, the camera Powers on and of with the car.
Switch to the right, when car is shut down, and the cam goes into parkingmode with continous power protected till 12,2 volt.

I think its the most easy and cheapest solution.
 
Welcome to DCT Tdjee :) Yes, switching like that may work but with almost all switches there's a short time when switching where nothing is connected, and that momentary lapse of power might cause anomalous operation. Relays generally work a lot faster and would be less prone to that issue which is why they are generally used for power-switching circuits instead of a direct switch.

If a switch works reliably for you then there's nothing wrong it, although that could change with a different cam or different PS ;)

Phil
 
So how would I hook it up so if the car was off, I can flip a switch and make the camera come on? Or make the camera stay on when the car is shut off. Here in the USA the police often tell you to turn your car off when they pull you over. This way you cant suddenly speed away AND it makes your camera shut down so you arent recording them. Most police are fine but some can be real Nazi's. And hell, even the good ones tend to go full Nazi if you happen to exercise your 5th amendment rights (self incrimination protection) by not answering their questions. Its sad really but thats what its come to here.

The bottom line is if you dont record it it didnt happen. Because its you word against the police and they ALWAYS give the police the benifit of the doubt. No matter how bruised and bloody you are. LOL. Not even joking. The cops can beat the snot out of you for no reason and just say you resisted arrest. You become a criminal...... Unless you can produce video that shows otherwise.
 
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Get a SPDT type toggle switch. There will be 3 terminals on the bottom. Normal 12V switched power goes to one end terminal, 12V unswitched power goes to the other end terminal, and the center terminal feeds the cam's PS. You will need to fuse the circuit where it picks up power on both switched and unswitched wires. (2 fuses)

Currently some of my cams are on a manually switched circuit. I have to turn them on and off via the one switch but it's an easy habit to get into, No problems so far but were I to forget and leave them on for more than a day I might end up with a dead battery since I'm not using a BDP.

You never know what you'll get from Cops anymore here, but don't expect anything decent as you won't likely get that :( Just play their game and save the legal challenges for the Courtroom :whistle:

Phil
 
Thank you for the reply Phil. Yea I am a good guy so I never have any issues and I never expect to have any. Haven't been pulled over in like 15 years. Im just have a prepared mind-set. Plus my kids are getting close to driving age so I better get this tech down pat before then. For me its like my seat belt, fire extinguisher and carrying a sidearm. I dont expect an accident, fire or getting robbed. But I have them all JUST IN CASE!!

Now back to the topic at hand. I was also planning on getting a Cellink Battery. How does this SPDT swicth play into that? No different? Or does it now have to go between the Cellink and the cam?
 
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I found this online. This approach to hiding the wiring resulted in a very clean install.

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2903432

I recently saw a thread on someone wanting to install a dash cam and thought i would share my hardwire with you all.

My Hardwire includes using the plug that came with the camera and only costs an additional ~$4 to wire in cleanly.
In this hardwire, I used the G1W-C dash camera with a 32 GB sd card. totaled out to ~$80 with expedited shipping
 
I found this online. This approach to hiding the wiring resulted in a very clean install.

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2903432

I recently saw a thread on someone wanting to install a dash cam and thought i would share my hardwire with you all.

My Hardwire includes using the plug that came with the camera and only costs an additional ~$4 to wire in cleanly.
In this hardwire, I used the G1W-C dash camera with a 32 GB sd card. totaled out to ~$80 with expedited shipping

There are some similar options on Amazon too. Search for Marine 12V Outlet

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B003EET3XY
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Hi all sorry to resurrect an old thread but...before I buy anything I wanted to discuss my situation. I have a blackvue with parking mode. Everything works perfect, but I would just like the option to turn off the camera permanently when parked say on vacation for a month. I just want to toggle a switch and disable it. BUT, would I have to disable both constant and acc or just one...? I'm guessing that the cam only runs off of constant when parked so I would just toggle that wire?
Thanks
 
If I was looking at the option of turning off a blackvue for a month because I was going away on vacation, I would, instead, remove the blackvue from the car altogether (that would turn it off permanently), whether I was leaving the car at the airport's parking lot or at home. Then, upon my return, I would install it back in, plug in the dashcam's power cable, and I am ready to go on with my life again. I don't see how you always-ON vs. ACCessories circuits would come into this piocture at all; they would be moot point. And, I don't know about all the other models, but this is a 5 second job with the Blackview DR900X.
 
It appears that is the best answer. The power magic pro they sell for these is utter shiiiite, they don't work and are cheaply made. I'm going to run power from my arm rest cigarette port, which works perfectly, and then just unplug it when not in use. I'm done with all this silly tweaking haha. Thanks for the response!
 
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