Be careful on snow and ice... ran a red light... hit the curb...

I've never used summer only tires. I don't think they even sell those here by that name.
Next best matching is what they call 3 season tires (same thing different name?) that is good for all seasons except winter.

Picture attached with summary of UK tyre type definitions. :)
'Summer' tyres usually have three or four bands around the circumference.
'All Season' tyres usually have a V-pattern in the tread.
'Winter' tyres have a V-pattern or knobbly pattern with thousands of tiny wavy slits in the tread.
 

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My summer tires are Continental, thread look much like the premium contact one in the pic ( 3 "groves ) around the tire as i recall.
Also cheap tires,,,, which are just fine on a economy car like mine, even if i often push the envelope and can feel the tires under me being just on the verge of "collapsing"
My ass are a fine tuned highly sensitive driving instrument :giggle:

I think Sunny learned something here, and it would be almighty embarrassing to cause a crash with umpteen dashcams in the car :giggle:
 
So, what should we do?
Depends on your climate, if I lived up in Yorkshire like Tony then I would quite likely copy him, but down here in Devon where the road temperature rarely drops below 7C and is normally either dry or slightly damp rather than actually wet, the summer tyres are almost certainly the best option year round. For the 3 days every 10 years when the road actually turns white I leave the car at home, used to be more often, but with climate change!

So, what should we do?
Change our car so we can all fit super premium sports tyres and huge race-track-capable brakes?
Race track brakes are a serious disadvantage unless you are on a race track!
They take too long to warm up to operating temperature and their heat tolerance isn't needed for a single braking event.

A lot of modern cars have eco tyres. Eco = low rolling resistance = low grip.
I have eco tyres on my not so modern car, "Dunlop Sport Blu Response", best grip I've ever had, and "A" rated (best) for wet braking on the Euro performance label while your Michelin Cross Climate would be B rated. B rated instead of C for fuel use - They are not good on snow or for a few weeks each summer when the roads overheat.

FUEL-SAVING DESIGN
The Sport BluResponse employs an aerodynamic shape and low-heat compound to reduce rolling resistance by 30% compared to its predecessor*. That translates to average savings of €100 per year in fuel costs**.
... save enough fuel to pay for the themselves and make a profit :cool:
 
I have eco tyres on my not so modern car, "Dunlop Sport Blu Response", best grip I've ever had, and "A" rated (best) for wet braking on the Euro performance label while your Michelin Cross Climate would be B rated. B rated instead of C for fuel use - They are not good on snow or for a few weeks each summer when the roads overheat.

Yes, Michelin CrossClimate are 'B' rated for wet grip in summer conditions.
But if you look at the video clip I posted earlier, the 'B' wet grip rated Michelin CrossClimate are superior to the 'A' rated Continental Premium Contact on a wet road below about 13'C.
Above 13'C the Premium Contact have a small advantage.
Below 13'C the Premium Contact see an increasing drop off in their ability; 10% further to stop at 6.5'C and at 2'C they take 20% further to stop on a wet road than the Michelin CrossClimate.

How many days per year are the roads wet and below 13'C? Quite a lot, even in summer.
A lot of people are driving to work early in the morning and late in the afternoon/evening when the weather is often much cooler than the early afternoon peak temperature. Many more people have to travel on minor roads which are often shaded, therefore cool, damp, icy, smeared with slippy mud and wet leaves.
 
There is no doubt that tires are a science, from the fastest race classes, and even down to RC cars where you can get different compounds and foams for the inside of the tire, and in the offroad categories also thread pattern.

In my little 4X4 RC truck i run 2 different hardness of foams, and they are dualstage foams ( soft on the front axle and medium on the rear axle )

When my friend was serious about racing with the 1:5 onroad cars, we even cut our own thread patterns, and my friend had about 12 sets of tires in different compounds and slick / cut thread pattern.
And i can assure you, it is far from as easy at it look, these are not the fastest cars by a long shot, but they are only RWD.
 
Modern 'normal' tyres rely almost completely on a chemical attraction between the tyre's rubber and the tarmac.
If anything comes between the rubber and the tarmac (snow, mud, ice, leaves, sand, gravel etc) or even if the tarmac is very rough, they may have almost no grip at all.

The more aggressive multiple-V-shaped tread of winter and all season tyres uses a mixture of chemical grip from the rubber compound (often a softer compound which doesn't harden to almost plastic in cold weather) and physical clawing grip from the rougher looking tread pattern.
 
I have one of my friends 1:5 tires, this one are quite hard, almost feel like plastic rather than rubber, but with the tire warmer cooking it to 60 degrees before the race things get softer at operating temperature.

onroad dæk.jpg
 
Okay that tire are also something like 20 years old now, so i recon it is now harder than it should be.
I cant recall how much power the electric tire warmers used, but they got 4 tires nice and toasty, cuz you cant drive your tires warm in the pro leagues, if you do that you loose by at least a lap.
O and you also had all the adjustment options, camber - caster - toe - brake force - clutch force ASO, really if a proper 1:1 racer have it, so do the 1:5 cars or even the smaller ones for that matter, so you also need a setup board so you have your shi,,,,, stuff dialed in to a degree or less.

It is really funny to go all the way with things, and you can learn a lot.
 
you have to know when you post videos like this that you're going to suffer the wrath of all the perfect drivers that have never made a mistake ;)
Haha... I have enough experience posting here so no worries.
But one thing I realize as I live in the same place for years and years is that I feel like I can drive with eyes closed around my neighborhood and the videos here are around my home.
That's not a good thing as data says most accidents happen close to where you live as you get more comfortable and ignore the basics. hmm...
 
Well i practiced driving ( on motorway at 110 km/h ) not with my eyes closed, but rather only looking at the R side mirror and so navigate by the white line that indicate the side of the road.

It did take some practice to pull off, but in the end i could drive several KM that way.

Just fortunately it was in the very early hours of the morning, and i dident encounter any stopped cars or trucks, cuz then i would have been very surprised.

OT: Last week a kid here had his car die on him driving in the 3 lane on a motorway, so what did the kid do, stay stopped in the 3 lane and not put on warning lights.
= The kid got hurt very bad when his blacked out car was rammed from behind by a car doing 110 km/h :rolleyes:

And Danish society will have me feeling sorry for the kid,,,,,,,, i think not.
 
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