Blueskysea hardwire kit trouble

mily

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You should use the 0614 Auto parking mode firmware if you hardwired dashcam already, and PM you the FW already, please check your inbox message!

It happens when the dashcam detects its writing speed too slow. It might ok for your computer usage, but not okay for dashcam usage now! So suggest you change to a new card for this dashcam!
I have experienced the same problem as OP's since I changed to hardwire kit with constant power supply. The firmware is what you sent me through PM, and I remember the version number is 190401***. I am not sure if that's the 0614s version with G sensor triggered start/stop recording parking mode, or the latest low bit continuous recording parking mode.

Either way, the cam was playing up since it's connected to the hardwire kit, especially after ignition of the car. The WIFI was cut, green light was not flashing, and it's dimmer than normal. The recording also stopped, and unplug + plug in the microUSB lead didn't help the dashcam to recover. When I plugged in the power supply from original cigaret lighter adaptor, the dashcam revived and started to work normally.

I am not sure if this indicates a bad quality hardwire kit (it's the second set from the same seller, previous one only keep supplying for a few minutes then cam shut itself), or it's something to do with the firmware?
I have recorded the problem as the following video, however missed the very last bit when I was plugging the original power adaptor, so you won't see it restarts.

 

mily

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If it works with the supplied USB charger, it should be the problem with the hardwire kit!
Do you have a multimeter? You can have a check its voltage output from the hardwire kit!
Sounds like something I should recheck.
 

estore009

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Sounds like something I should recheck.
Also please have a check the hot (12V always-on ) socket after engine off, I hear that some hot socket will last 15 minutes after the engine off.
 

mily

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Also please have a check the hot (12V always-on ) socket after engine off, I hear that some hot socket will last 15 minutes after the engine off.
That's not the problem in my case. My dashcam continuously recorded for a whole night, and went stall on ignition of my car. I didn't find it until finished my day trip.
So the problem will either be the ground, which may be "less grounded" after ignition, or the hardwire kit itself.
However, after stopped the car, the ground point should be back to 0V, which I have triple checked before installing the hardwire kit, but the camera still didn't back to normal function.
 

noobmaster

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That's not the problem in my case. My dashcam continuously recorded for a whole night, and went stall on ignition of my car. I didn't find it until finished my day trip.
So the problem will either be the ground, which may be "less grounded" after ignition, or the hardwire kit itself.
However, after stopped the car, the ground point should be back to 0V, which I have triple checked before installing the hardwire kit, but the camera still didn't back to normal function.

My old car (Ford focus) had electrical problems 12v would often push 14 volts. I had lots of problems trying to use a hardwire kit (this was a couple years ago though) and i ended up going back to usb power for that reason.The high voltage killed USB 12v adapters routinely. It sounds like you have a multimeter so its more likely its not a good ground point or good connection on the ground if i had to make a wild guess. It seems like some hardwire kits are better than others though.
 

stalker880

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I signed up just to chime in.
I have the same problem and it has been driving me nuts.
I have 2 identical set up, one car has never been a problem and the other car always dim green light problem. its like black and white.
swapped the dash cam between the 2, still same. replaced the hardware kit and its still plaguing me.
i have secured the grounding very well with a split washers.
not related to temperature.

i was thinking that maybe its the issue with voltage regulation. the b1w runs on capacitors that rely on a specific voltage to charge up the capacitors.
I suspect the charged up capacitors then start the boot sequence -> to be confirmed by manufacturer?

my hardwire kit probably has issues with voltage regulation/fluctuations rather than absolute voltage.


PS: I just noticed this fine print on a aliexpress listing when I randomly clicked a link for a picture:
Output Voltage Specified:
1. No Load 5.4V, 0.5A Load 5.1V
2. 1A Load 4.8V, 2A Load 4.2V
but still doesn't explain the difference between the 2 cars.

isnt this also the official hardware kit?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B075WPSZYH
maybe rep can help shed some light.
 
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estore009

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my hardwire kit probably has issues with voltage regulation/fluctuations rather than absolute voltage.
Need the voltage data from the hardwire kit when ignition off and on, thanks!
 

stalker880

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How do you propose I do that reliably?
I don't have a small enough Multimeter or an oscilloscope.


Is there another hardware kit recommended? Might be cheaper and easier for me to just buy another instead of wasting my time mucking around any further. It works with cigarette port adapter but very unreliable with official hardware kit.
 

SawMaster

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Unless the HWK is faulty, by far the most common problem is an improper ground. Today's cars have many exposed screws and bolts that aren't reliable grounds. If the wire won't reach to somewhere that you are certain is the car chassis, then run a jumper wire to there from where it's attached now for testing purposes. If that fixes things you make the jumper more permanent and out-of-the-way ;)

One of the downsides of digital meters is that they can sometimes be hard to read when the voltage varies such as commonly happens when a car is charging. It should still get you close enough with checking the HWK's positive input voltage both with engine running and car turned off, and you can do that with the car sitting parked. Same as above you have to be certain of your ground connection, and reading to a tenth of a volt should be good enough for this.

I used a HWK from SpyTec with this cam for well over a year without problems, but it seems to have a broken wire now very close the the plug at the cam. Maybe it got damaged, maybe I just got the one-in-ten-thousand with a bad wire, but it could be something more serious such as cheap or thin wire. Not knowing what has happened for certain I hesitate to recommend it anymore.

Phil
 

estore009

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How do you propose I do that reliably?
I don't have a small enough Multimeter or an oscilloscope.


Is there another hardware kit recommended? Might be cheaper and easier for me to just buy another instead of wasting my time mucking around any further. It works with cigarette port adapter but very unreliable with official hardware kit.
You can tag me the order number, and I will ask the seller agent to offer you a hardwire kit!
 

stalker880

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I am quite sure my grounding is very secure. i have a split washer + washer, and quite a big bolt into the chassis. i even scratched the chassis area around the bolt to ensure its metal on metal.
i bought mine from ebay though.
is there an alternative kit?
 

estore009

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I am quite sure my grounding is very secure. i have a split washer + washer, and quite a big bolt into the chassis. i even scratched the chassis area around the bolt to ensure its metal on metal.
i bought mine from ebay though.
is there an alternative kit?
Tell me your eBay order number, I will have a check with the seller agent! We will send you one 2-wire-hardwire kit
 
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