Brand I have never Heard of Question - Focuway T5

[Agie]

The exact same thought I had.... Foc-U if it works and Foc-U if it doesnt. However, I didn't want to insult someone here if this was their company. Strange name though for a Product!

Lots of no name Chinese brands pushing out dashcams so would be very unlikely they would be on here haha, but totally what a name! Foc-U-Over

 

[jsmith]

Lots of no name Chinese brands pushing out dashcams so would be very unlikely they would be on here haha, but totally what a name! Foc-U-Over

I would think research and design is not cheap, even for a no name brand to develop a product. Therefore, it makes you wonder what incentive there is to make an inferior product. I realize some people see reviews (even faked and paid ones) and then go buy a product. However, anyone who does research will see brand recognition is lacking with Focuway.

Why would these companies bother to even enter the market if what they make is junk or could be junk?

I can't say how the Focuway will function, but I have my suspicions that my acquaintance will not be getting years of reliable enjoyment out of the purchase.

 

[Agie]

I would think research and design is not cheap, even for a no name brand to develop a product. Therefore, it makes you wonder what incentive there is to make an inferior product. I realize some people see reviews (even faked and paid ones) and then go buy a product. However, anyone who does research will see brand recognition is lacking with Focuway.

Why would these companies bother to even enter the market if what they make is junk or could be junk?

I can't say how the Focuway will function, but I have my suspicions that my acquaintance will not be getting years of reliable enjoyment out of the purchase.

It's the market I guess, and if they can get cheap enough labour and parts that they can get away with - then they'll give it a shot. Chinese companies are kings when it comes to reverse engineering certain tech too, so that all plays into it. They hope they'll become the next big company in dash cams, but often do not have the resources to back it up...

 

[DT MI]

...are kings when it comes to reverse engineering certain tech too...

R&D means Remember and Duplicate.

 

[Agie]

R&D means Remember and Duplicate.

At least in that part of town

 

[jsmith]

It's the market I guess, and if they can get cheap enough labour and parts that they can get away with - then they'll give it a shot. Chinese companies are kings when it comes to reverse engineering certain tech too, so that all plays into it. They hope they'll become the next big company in dash cams, but often do not have the resources to back it up...

I understand China is the king of Thievery and Duplication. After all, China has mastered the market of "Knock Offs" to the letter. However, even stealing another brand's look and design isn't without caveats. The knockoffs are often inferior and made cheaply. Yet, someone still has to "Research and Design" these crappy products, which has a front end cost.

Maybe you're right then. Low Production Cost + Cheap Components = Worth the Financial Risk

I personally would rather stick to "Known Brands". Thinkware, Blackvue, Viofo, Street Guardian, etc with Brand Recognition. Companies that will exist next week and offer some form of customer service.

It's a shame I cannot convince acquaintance to understand my argument, but the person is also in their 60s. She knows I have camera, and I have showed her usefulness of cameras, but explaining the technology is difficult. I think she is of mentality "All Products are Made Equal". After all, she read "Many Good Reviews" which I can only imagine are likely Fakes.

 

[jsmith]

So just to update, I installed the camera in person's car. It took much longer than expected as I thought I had done things wrong on hardwire. I told person I will continue the next day, I can't figure out what is wrong. It dawned on me, the stupid camera only turns on with impact. The camera gives NO beeping or notification when car turns off that parking mode works. The camera just TURN OFF with car.

If you shake camera (g-sensor), then it turns on. Duh.

Anyway, the hardwire works but I told person after I was done this is what you get. It will only turn on if your car is hit and it could miss the accident. It won't have real time recording. The person seemed disappointed but then said I bought what had good reviews.

Long story short, I did my part.

 

[Agie]

So just to update, I installed the camera in person's car. It took much longer than expected as I thought I had done things wrong on hardwire. I told person I will continue the next day, I can't figure out what is wrong. It dawned on me, the stupid camera only turns on with impact. The camera gives NO beeping or notification when car turns off that parking mode works. The camera just TURN OFF with car.

If you shake camera (g-sensor), then it turns on. Duh.

Anyway, the hardwire works but I told person after I was done this is what you get. It will only turn on if your car is hit and it could miss the accident. It won't have real time recording. The person seemed disappointed but then said I bought what had good reviews.

Long story short, I did my part.

Jesus, the naivety of said person. "the reviews said it was good so it must be good" - sorry to hear that and really seems like it was a waste of your time installing it for them too.

Like you said, you did your part. It's their problem now and they will kick and scream when there are botched recordings, or the camera ****s the bed in a year or two

 

[jsmith]

Jesus, the naivety of said person. "the reviews said it was good so it must be good" - sorry to hear that and really seems like it was a waste of your time installing it for them too.

Like you said, you did your part. It's their problem now and they will kick and scream when there are botched recordings, or the camera ****s the bed in a year or two

Precisely. It works as the Manufacturer Intended. How long and How Well are NOT my problem. I already know the hours I spent installing and hardwiring it will be a wasted effort. I guess if it works a year or two, the person can at least be "happy" if it comes in handy. The level of reliability is yet to be seen, but I wouldn't hold my breath!

 

[Dashmellow]

"A year or two" might be asking a lot of this camera. I have a hunch a few months might be more like it, but one never knows. Hope you and the acquaintance you helped out have good luck with it.

 

[Nigel]

At least they don't need to worry about needing to blame you for a poor installation when their car battery gets discharged!

 

[jsmith]

"A year or two" might be asking a lot of this camera. I have a hunch a few months might be more like it, but one never knows. Hope you and the acquaintance you helped out have good luck with it.

No argument here....I hope the camera works well, but realistically, I don't expect a long shelf life. There's good reason why certain items are "Cheaper". Cheaper in the Tech World often means inferior and/or significantly outdated components. Cutting costs has to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is usually not to a person's benefit.

It's analogous to buying a 4-5 year old used Apple IPhone, complaining about the picture / video quality, and then being upset when the phone dies a year later from wear and tear.

 

[jsmith]

At least they don't need to worry about needing to blame you for a poor installation when their car battery gets discharged

LOL well I don't think the lack of voltage cutoff will drain battery, since the camera only activates with the G-Force Sensor in Parking Mode. However, I imagine the parasitic draw if the car is parked long term MAY lead to a dead battery though.

Not much I can do there when a crap product makes a crap hardwire kit!

I bank on the camera dying before the car battery does!

 

[AlanDean]

For those of you who are concerned about the 11.6 v battery discharge protection for the Amazon hardwire kit associated with the Focuway listing just add a diode in series with the + leads. There's a 0.65-0.7 v drop across silicon diodes. The hardwire kit internal sensing circuitry will then cut off at 12.3 car battery voltage.

 

[jsmith]

For those of you who are concerned about the 11.6 v battery discharge protection for the Amazon hardwire kit associated with the Focuway listing just add a diode in series with the + leads. There's a 0.65-0.7 v drop across silicon diodes. The hardwire kit internal sensing circuitry will then cut off at 12.3 car battery voltage.

I am not familiar with this technique. I have always used higher end cameras with proper hardwire kits. I would be interesting in knowing how this works. Can you give an example (pictures) please.

Are you talking something like this? I guess you'd have to cut the ends of the hardwire kit? WIth the leads going to the to the + and - input (which wire would go to + and which to -)? and then the wires connect with fuse tap would go to the Out + and Out -?

Or is this not what you are discussing?

 

[joegr]

I am not familiar with this technique. I have always used higher end cameras with proper hardwire kits. I would be interesting in knowing how this works. Can you give an example (pictures) please.

Are you talking something like this? I guess you'd have to cut the ends of the hardwire kit? WIth the leads going to the to the + and - input (which wire would go to + and which to -)? and then the wires connect with fuse tap would go to the Out + and Out -?

Or is this not what you are discussing?

View attachment 70505

View attachment 70506

No, nothing like that at all. Just a simple diode


Maybe one of these.

Amazon.com : diode 3A

3A is overkill. I'm sure a 1A would be just fine, but since the fuse on the hardwire kit is 3A, 3A is a safer choice. The voltage drop on this one is a little less at about 0.53 volts. You would put it between where the fuse tap plugs into the hardwire adapter.
I have two of these cameras, and so far so good. They have a timer, I have it set to 12hr, so after that it shuts off anyway. It takes about 300mA when in parking mode (recording or not), but it drops to about 3mA after the timer shuts it off.

 

[jsmith]

No, nothing like that at all. Just a simple diode
View attachment 70523

Maybe one of these.

Amazon.com : diode 3A

3A is overkill. I'm sure a 1A would be just fine, but since the fuse on the hardwire kit is 3A, 3A is a safer choice. The voltage drop on this one is a little less at about 0.53 volts. You would put it between where the fuse tap plugs into the hardwire adapter.
I have two of these cameras, and so far so good. They have a timer, I have it set to 12hr, so after that it shuts off anyway. It takes about 300mA when in parking mode (recording or not), but it drops to about 3mA after the timer shuts it off.

Can you provide an image of this please? Curious. Do you mean the male / female connector? Instead of plugging the Fuse Tap directly to hardwire kit, the male goes one end and female to the other?

 

[Michael23]

Hi jsmith,
Just some feedback for you...

As "joegr" has stated...use a 3 Amp diode.

Look at the image of the 3 Amp diode.
Do you see the white/silver band at one end?

This denotes the POSITIVE end, which if installed the wrong way will block the current.
It's simply installed in the POSITIVE (+ve) line with the band facing the LOAD...NOT THE FUSE.
(If installed the wrong way, it will not pass any voltage or current. Check with your digital multi meter.)
Just cut the POSITIVE wire & solder the diode in. Please add some heat shrink of the correct size before soldering though.
Slide the heat shrink over the connections/diode & heat gently with a cig lighter.

It's a 3 to 5 min job.
Easy peasy.

 

[jsmith]

Hi jsmith,
Just some feedback for you...

As "joegr" has stated...use a 3 Amp diode.

Look at the image of the 3 Amp diode.
Do you see the white/silver band at one end?

This denotes the POSITIVE end, which if installed the wrong way will block the current.
It's simply installed in the POSITIVE (+ve) line with the band facing the LOAD...NOT THE FUSE.
(If installed the wrong way, it will not pass any voltage or current. Check with your digital multi meter.)
Just cut the POSITIVE wire & solder the diode in. Please add some heat shrink of the correct size before soldering though.
Slide the heat shrink over the connections/diode & heat gently with a cig lighter.

It's a 3 to 5 min job.
Easy peasy.

I am sorry if I am being dense, and please be patient in explaining if I am wrong, but is this diagram what you mean? On the Focuway T5, the Red is ACC (Accessory), Yellow (Battery), Black is Ground.

1. You said the band faces the load Not The Fuse (Band is at the bottom on Diagram)

2. Battery would be the wire that determines Voltage I presume, since the accessory only determines whether the car is on or off based upon that fuse being active or not.

3. I then presume you mean the fuse tap goes to the end with OPPOSITE end with the band facing downward.

Am I understanding you right?

FYI: This has been in the acquaintances car for 3-4 months now and through winter. I guess she must drive enough and plus the Focuway T5 only activates with motion and not low bitrate recording. None the less, I am curious to understand this concept.

Please let me know if I am correct here or not. Thank you.

 

[joegr]

I am sorry if I am being dense, and please be patient in explaining if I am wrong, but is this diagram what you mean? On the Focuway T5, the Red is ACC (Accessory), Yellow (Battery), Black is Ground.

1. You said the band faces the load Not The Fuse (Band is at the bottom on Diagram)

2. Battery would be the wire that determines Voltage I presume, since the accessory only determines whether the car is on or off based upon that fuse being active or not.

3. I then presume you mean the fuse tap goes to the end with OPPOSITE end with the band facing downward.

Am I understanding you right?

FYI: This has been in the acquaintances car for 3-4 months now and through winter. I guess she must drive enough and plus the Focuway T5 only activates with motion and not low bitrate recording. None the less, I am curious to understand this concept.

Please let me know if I am correct here or not. Thank you.


View attachment 70570

Yes, that would be the correct way.
A little math on the battery load...
Assume that parking mode is used for the max possible 24 hours before it shuts down, that's 0.3A x 24 hr, so 7.2 Ah. I think that the average car battery is 50 Ah (I know that some are 100+ Ah, mine is). So if it started at 100% charge, it would be at 85% charge after one day of parking mode. (I am allowing for a little drain from the car itself.)
I think that concern that parking mode will run the battery down is largely unfounded here.