Cannot hardwire

[NigelB]

Just about to get a Motability vehicle and they specifically exclude hardwiring of dashcams.

I would really appreciate advice about dashcams that be powered from a regular USB socket. The new car has five and I can route the cable from three of these quite easily.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Cheers

 

[LateralNW]

Just about to get a Motability vehicle and they specifically exclude hardwiring of dashcams.

I would really appreciate advice about dashcams that be powered from a regular USB socket. The new car has five and I can route the cable from three of these quite easily.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Cheers

Welcome, NigelB to the forum.

The short answer is maybe - as it depends on the car's ability to supply enough power to the dashcam.
Another option:
If you have a spare cigarette lighter socket, that would be a better option and more reliable. (Because of unknown power from the USB port)

The forum is very active so you will get others offering solutions I'm sure.
Something to start with

 

[Kremmen]

I'll second that.

My new Honda Jazz/Fit has one 2.5v USB socket and 3 x 1v sockets.

1v is not powerful enough for a lot of dashcams.

The 2.5v socket is the only one connected to the headunit so not available as it's needed for the phone connection or in my case a music USB stick.

 

[LateralNW]

I'll second that.

My new Honda Jazz/Fit has one 2.5v USB socket and 3 x 1v sockets.

1v is not powerful enough for a lot of dashcams.

The 2.5v socket is the only one connected to the headunit so not available as it's needed for the phone connection or in my case a music USB stick.

Did you mean amps (A) which would make sense.

Cheers.

 

[NigelB]

Many thanks for your responses so far. Impossible to get an answer from Ford about the rating of the USB outlets. Anyone with a Kuga or Escape using a USB to power their dashcam?

 

[SawMaster]

Welcome to DCT @NigelB

You might find a more definitive answer on available power on a vehicle-specific forum. You could also get a "Charger Doctor" device for a few quid and use it with your phone to test the available power of each USB port. In general, lower-performance dashcams use less power and something like a single-channel 1080p or 2K cam with a lowish bitrate will probably function well with a 1A power source, but high-performance and multi-channel cams tend to need at least 2A or more with 2.4A or 2.5A generally being recommended. You also need a good quality and size all-copper USB cable such as "Monoprice" sells. CCA and small wire sizes won't do here, even for low-current-draw cams.

The B1W has the lowest electrical current needs of any cam I'm aware of, and I've seen good results from older G1W/x designs on low power. I'm sure some more modern cams will also work and I'd rather see you with those, but to know for sure they'll work we really need to know the available power before recommending anything.

Phil

 

[NigelB]

Welcome to DCT @NigelB

You might find a more definitive answer on available power on a vehicle-specific forum. You could also get a "Charger Doctor" device for a few quid and use it with your phone to test the available power of each USB port. In general, lower-performance dashcams use less power and something like a single-channel 1080p or 2K cam with a lowish bitrate will probably function well with a 1A power source, but high-performance and multi-channel cams tend to need at least 2A or more with 2.4A or 2.5A generally being recommended. You also need a good quality and size all-copper USB cable such as "Monoprice" sells. CCA and small wire sizes won't do here, even for low-current-draw cams.

The B1W has the lowest electrical current needs of any cam I'm aware of, and I've seen good results from older G1W/x designs on low power. I'm sure some more modern cams will also work and I'd rather see you with those, but to know for sure they'll work we really need to know the available power before recommending anything.

Phil

Phil, thank you so much for the Charger Doctor tip, I have just ordered one! Brilliant. Let's see how we go.

PS I actually moderate a Ford forum and despite having a number of Ford techs (who are brilliant with dual clutch mass flywheel setup - electrics not so much) as members we cannot get a definitive answer from Ford. Charger Doctor seems the way ahead

 

[MrSonicAdvance]

One thing you haven't mentioned is whether the USB sockets are switched with the ignition. In my Octavia, the USB is de-powered when I turn the ignition off, which means I don;t have to remember to connect/disconnect the dash cam every time I use the car.
(Well it did, I've now replaced my dashcam and hardwired it for parking mode.)

 

[NigelB]

One thing you haven't mentioned is whether the USB sockets are switched with the ignition. In my Octavia, the USB is de-powered when I turn the ignition off, which means I don;t have to remember to connect/disconnect the dash cam every time I use the car.
(Well it did, I've now replaced my dashcam and hardwired it for parking mode.)

They are ignition contolled to a degree as they shut down 15 minutes after the car is turned off.