Dash Camera Heat Test

Which Dash Camera Brand do you think withstood the most heat?


  • Total voters
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A TEC cooler only work to the degree you can remove the heat from its hot side, so if you put no heat sink there at all the cold side dont get very much cold.

And as mentioned they also consume a lot of power at least VS how much the chips it sit on use.
As i remember from the way back days they stopped making TEC cooling in computers CUZ CPUs started to crank out too much power for them to keep up.

Phase cooling i think always worked, but strapping a refrigerator to your computer, and so getting the element of condensation in play, one of the reasons i never went down the path of extreme overclocking on my computers.

The best for dashcams are provably those little flat coolers i linked to before, one or two of them got to be able to handle the heat output of a dashcam SOC
 
Fight is brewing get popcorn
 
LOL

My computer need a refill of softdrink before the fight.

refill.jpg

Also i am amazed it still run cool, CUZ these opaque fluids i run, well lets just say they have a tendency to clog things up.
But it is many years since i build this, even the liquid metal paste between CPU and head have not been replaced in all those years.
 
A TEC cooler only work to the degree you can remove the heat from its hot side, so if you put no heat sink there at all the cold side dont get very much cold.

And as mentioned they also consume a lot of power at least VS how much the chips it sit on use.
As i remember from the way back days they stopped making TEC cooling in computers CUZ CPUs started to crank out too much power for them to keep up.

Phase cooling i think always worked, but strapping a refrigerator to your computer, and so getting the element of condensation in play, one of the reasons i never went down the path of extreme overclocking on my computers.

The best for dashcams are provably those little flat coolers i linked to before, one or two of them got to be able to handle the heat output of a dashcam SOC

Maybe, but computers get way hotter than dash cams.

Like I said, I don't know if Peltier chips are a viable option but it may be something worth exploring.
 
LOL

My computer need a refill of softdrink before the fight.

View attachment 73631

I thought this might be an interesting topic to discuss but I have no interest in fighting. Then again, I should remember where I am here and how these things tend to go. :smuggrin:

I recall many years ago on the forum some of us were joking about the possibility of water cooled dash cams. Maybe it's time to bring back the idea? :D
 
I cant recall, but they probably come in just about any size you like.
Last peltier / TEC element i saw was 30 watts.

For a dashcam you can probably still make do with a conventional heat sink, even in the lesser performing ALU, in the end of my OC days, and me still liking a fairly quiet PC, i used cobber heat sinks on north bridge chips ASO.
Actually still have a few of those little coolers lying somewhere.
 
As for an under-the-seat remote lens dash cam base unit probably some good beefy heat sinks and a nice efficient, quiet fan would do the trick. Some CCTV cameras are built like that.

Speaking of CCTV cams, another thing I've advocated for in dash cams is to build them with cast aluminum housings with integrated heat dissipating fins just like many CCTV cams have. Many of these cast aluminum cameras are in the same price range as dash cameras.
 
It seem like i have thrown out my cobber heat sinks, but i found a small collection of old heat pipe coolers

pipes galore.jpg
 
Really. i shouls start to throw out much more stuff, i moved here with a lot of essentially garbage, and i have accumulated even more in the last +1 decade.

I did get around to throw out my old computer chair today, and also buy a new washer fluid pump for my car so i can keep my windscreen clean come winter / crud season
 
Really. i shouls start to throw out much more stuff, i moved here with a lot of essentially garbage, and i have accumulated even more in the last +1 decade.

I did get around to throw out my old computer chair today, and also buy a new washer fluid pump for my car so i can keep my windscreen clean come winter / crud season

Funny you should mention. I've been going through a phase where I've finally begun throwing away old tech junk I've accumulated and been holding onto for decades. The weird thing is that a few times I've thrown away some old parts or thing I've never really had a use for and then a few weeks later I regret it because now I suddenly needed it! Then I go back to hoarding old junk again! :smuggrin:
 
Well ATM i am more in the power mode, CUZ it seem like i will be running a connected dashcam come next week, will order a SIM card for it tomorrow.
So this being a new toy i will probably have to " ride " it hard for a little while at least, but i suppose i will soon be back to my old timed parking guard use.
 
...I've finally begun throwing away old tech junk I've accumulated and been holding onto for decades...
Just the other day I found a couple of 51/4" floppy disks in a box in the basement. :rolleyes: I haven't had the capability to read them for many years now.

I do have a box or two of 3 1/2" and a USB drive if you're interested in adding to your collection. ;)
 
Just the other day I found a couple of 51/4" floppy disks in a box in the basement. :rolleyes: I haven't had the capability to read them for many years now.

I do have a box or two of 3 1/2" and a USB drive if you're interested in adding to your collection. ;)

Don't get rid of them, you might need them!!! There could be some very important data on there. You really need to look for a 51/4" floppy drive on eBay! :smuggrin:
 
https://innovv.com/products/innovv-k7-dashcam

This dashcam designed for motorcyclists looks pretty good for the under the seat idea. I want the STAVIS 2 though etc.

Peltier chips use a lot of power and we have enough problems with power for parking mode.
 
As for an under-the-seat remote lens dash cam base unit probably some good beefy heat sinks and a nice efficient, quiet fan would do the trick. Some CCTV cameras are built like that.

Speaking of CCTV cams, another thing I've advocated for in dash cams is to build them with cast aluminum housings with integrated heat dissipating fins just like many CCTV cams have. Many of these cast aluminum cameras are in the same price range as dash cameras.

The housing material I think ist the key. Second would be placement and free space around heat producing components. In uder words, putting the controller for the memory card close to the controller for dash cam would be a problem. Which it already is with some of these cams. That much heat from multiple components, close together, in a small space is very difficult to effectively cool.

An aluminum housing, maybe 15 cm by 15 cm by 5 cm with components on one or multiple boards and passive cooling would probably work. Box would need to be well vented and hot components oriented so they are at the outside edges of the board, close to cooling vents, and not in the center of the board. Internal curved air-dams in the box could be used around the hot components to encourage convective cooling.

The unit of course would need to be placed under a car seat in a space available in dashboard or elsewhere. The box would likely be somewhat hot to the touch so some care would need to be taken when working with a freshly de-powered unit.

Incidentally...I have no PhD from Google so will not argue with anyone.
 
The housing material I think ist the key. Second would be placement and free space around heat producing components. In uder words, putting the controller for the memory card close to the controller for dash cam would be a problem. Which it already is with some of these cams. That much heat from multiple components, close together, in a small space is very difficult to effectively cool.

An aluminum housing, maybe 15 cm by 15 cm by 5 cm with components on one or multiple boards and passive cooling would probably work. Box would need to be well vented and hot components oriented so they are at the outside edges of the board, close to cooling vents, and not in the center of the board. Internal curved air-dams in the box could be used around the hot components to encourage convective cooling.

The unit of course would need to be placed under a car seat in a space available in dashboard or elsewhere. The box would likely be somewhat hot to the touch so some care would need to be taken when working with a freshly de-powered unit.

Incidentally...I have no PhD from Google so will not argue with anyone.

For a long time I've thought about posting a thread that echos much of what you are saying here with photographs of a CCTV camera tear down that demonstrates how the massive internal heat sinks work and how the processor is thermally connected with the aluminum camera housing to dissipate heat. Unlike dash cams, CCTV cams are hermetically sealed against moisture ingress, so they have no ventilation and some of the techniques used to deal with this could be very useful for dash cams.

One of these days I will get off my ass and do this post. :)
 
For a long time I've thought about posting a thread that echos much of what you are saying here with photographs of a CCTV camera tear down that demonstrates how the massive internal heat sinks work and how the processor is thermally connected with the aluminum camera housing to dissipate heat. Unlike dash cams, CCTV cams are hermetically sealed against moisture ingress, so they have no ventilation and some of the techniques used to deal with this could be very useful for dash cams.

One of these days I will get off my ass and do this post. :)

Yes, I believe we are thinking along the same line. :)

I and a friend of mine have discussed such matters for quite some time. We both have have a background in fiber optics and thought it would be uber-cool for fiber connection from the camera to the box. These days, the fiber optic is quite tough and well sheathed and would withstand the rigors of installation and silly people, for the most part. Main concern is to never exceed the bend radius of the fiber cable. Since it would be impossible, or perhaps improbable to expect the end-user to clean the fiber ends, those ends would have small electronics already attached. The installer would only plug the ends into the cam and the box. This would increase speed of transfer and drop RF interference to zero, except for at camera and box end, where there would like be some RF and electrical interference.

Of course, this would be a top end dash cam and would permit the full use of Starvis 2 or what ever CMOS is in use. The market has grown though and when you have people willing to pay USD 45,000 for a SUV for soccer moms, then a USD800 or more camera should be no problem to afford. At present, the manufactures seem to really have on one price market and that is the low side of middle range. They will need to move to a multi tier price market and service those who are will to pay for the absolute best.
 
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