Dashcam battery on VIOFO A139

yufamily0168

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Hi. Anyone using Blackboxmycar BI-750 and BE-750 on their VIOFO A139?

How many hours did you get out of your BI750 on VIOFO A139 with all 3 channels enable and also how long with BE750 added?
What settings do you use for VIOFO A139 to achieve that?

Thanks
 
@BlackboxMyCar might be able to answer those questions better than anyone else here
Thanks!

Hi. Anyone using Blackboxmycar BI-750 and BE-750 on their VIOFO A139?

How many hours did you get out of your BI750 on VIOFO A139 with all 3 channels enable and also how long with BE750 added?
What settings do you use for VIOFO A139 to achieve that?

Thanks

Using the max video resolution for all 3 cameras, the BI-750 will provide about 20 hours to the A139. It gets doubled with the BE-750.

Lower the video resolution and you get longer duration.
 
Pardon my ignorance but what benefit does this provide if I have my system hardwired?
for some vehicles you can't draw power from the battery while parked without causing problems for the vehicle, most common in European vehicles, and vehicles that use CAN-BUS systems, this is a separate battery system that is independent of the vehicle electrical system when the car is off
 
In any vehicle, these will eliminate excess wear on the car battery (not always an issue) as well as offering much more recording time than most car batteries can provide. The downside (other than initial cost) is that they require driving time to recharge, and if only short drives are done they may not charge fully.

If you limit parking recording to a few hours duration these systems may not be necessary save for the instances Jokiin refers to above, which are becoming more common in the newest cars. The BI-750 seems to be the best system of this type commonly available right now.

Phil
 
Can you have BI-750 charging from your car battery, to effectively extend after when the car battery gets to the lower limit?
 
I don't have a BI-750 but as I understand things it does charge itself when you're driving. There is no in-built method with it to use it and the car battery together to power the cam, but with the power capacity of the BI-750 you probably don't need that. And if you truly do need more capacity than the BI-750 offers, then you will need a large custom-made auxiliary battery system such as RV's use.

Phil
 
We're discontinued the BI-750 due to sourcing issues with parts, unfortunately. We're still carrying the Cellink Neo and the BlackVue B-124X, and will be coming out with a new battery pack in 2-3 months from now.
 
In any vehicle, these will eliminate excess wear on the car battery (not always an issue) as well as offering much more recording time than most car batteries can provide. The downside (other than initial cost) is that they require driving time to recharge, and if only short drives are done they may not charge fully.

If you limit parking recording to a few hours duration these systems may not be necessary save for the instances Jokiin refers to above, which are becoming more common in the newest cars. The BI-750 seems to be the best system of this type commonly available right now.

Phil

Other factor is cost. These batteries cost about the same or more than a car battery. So you're not really saving anything on the wear and tear argument. As these battery packs probably have less shelf life than a car battery, too. Since lithium batteries do degrade and hold less charge over time, especially after repeated charging.

The benefit of a battery pack is record time. I believe you can also daisy chain multiple battery packs together to increase the duration of park mode far beyond what the car battery is capable of handling. There is a significant cost in utilizing this setup.
 
Other factor is cost. These batteries cost about the same or more than a car battery. So you're not really saving anything on the wear and tear argument. As these battery packs probably have less shelf life than a car battery, too. Since lithium batteries do degrade and hold less charge over time, especially after repeated charging.

The benefit of a battery pack is record time. I believe you can also daisy chain multiple battery packs together to increase the duration of park mode far beyond what the car battery is capable of handling. There is a significant cost in utilizing this setup.
I think you have everything wrong there!

LiFePO4 batteries can be charged far more times than any lead acid battery before they wear out, but the lead acid will have far more capacity per $€£.
 
I think you have everything wrong there!

LiFePO4 batteries can be charged far more times than any lead acid battery before they wear out, but the lead acid will have far more capacity per $€£.

1. Except many cars use AGM batteries today......which are lead acid free.
2. Replacing a Lead Acid Battery is far cheaper than replacing LiFePO4 Lithium batteries. Lithium Batteries degrade over time, holding less and less charge.
 
1. Except many cars use AGM batteries today......which are lead acid free.
AGM is a type of lead acid battery, it’s main constituents are lead and acid.


2. Replacing a Lead Acid Battery is far cheaper than replacing LiFePO4 Lithium batteries. Lithium Batteries degrade over time, holding less and less charge.
Except that you have to replace lead acid more often, so in the long term the lithium battery will work out cheaper, if you actually use them long term.

Currently AGM is a good choice if you are capable of installing it, partly due to the lower initial investment than lithium, but also because they can charge much faster than a reasonably priced lithium.
 
LiFePO4 cell life when used correctly degrades very little in time and very slowly, whereas all lead-acid technologies (which includes AGM) degrade in time more quickly and on a steeper slope. The world-wide standard for determining LiFePO4 service life is rating to when it can no longer maintain 80% of it's original full capacity. There is no real standard world-wide or otherwise for rating the service life of L/A batteries but it's generally done at around 50% or it's original full capacity as long as that allows it's use in whatever role it's being put to. It must also be considered that you can regularly use only half the rated capacity of L/A battery types without damaging them while you can use the entire stated capacity of LiFePO4 without incurring any damage or excess wear.

Initial cost per watt for any L/A type will be lower than LiFePO4, but by the time the LiFePO4 needs replacement you will have replaced the L/A type more than once to maintain the same output level the LiFePO4 has at it's end, and then the cost advantage will be far in favor of the LiFePO4. When you do the L/A replacements at 80% of their original capacity so as to match what LiFePO4 is doing that cost spread is even bigger. LiIon functions differently than these and is less economical than LiFePO4 in the long term.

For dashcam powering the main advantage of these devices is ease of installation and use along with eliminating excess wear on the car battery, all done in a relatively small light package which can easily fit into almost any car. No L/A system including AGM matches those aspects. Most dashcam users do not wish to do any L/A installs and the cost to have a Pro do them is large when compared to these, and a DIY install is easy with these. There are other differences (such as charge rate which Nigel has pointed out) but overall these devices are near-optimum for most dashcam users and also well worth their initial cost.

Phil
 
AGM is a type of lead acid battery, it’s main constituents are lead and acid.



Except that you have to replace lead acid more often, so in the long term the lithium battery will work out cheaper, if you actually use them long term.

Currently AGM is a good choice if you are capable of installing it, partly due to the lower initial investment than lithium, but also because they can charge much faster than a reasonably priced lithium.

You are right, I looked up AGM, and it is still a lead acid battery. None the less, AGM's handle electronics and charging more efficiently than Flooded Acid Batteries. Albeit AGM are more expensive. Modern cars utilize AGM technology, especially when start / stop is used.

Either way, a Lithium Battery Pack is going to sent you back 275-300 Euros. The cost of a car battery. A car battery should last between 5-7 years. That same Lithium Battery pack is unlikely to have equal or better lifespan.

So there is no cost savings to using a Battery Pack. The benefit is that one does not have to hardwire, and purely electric cars today, are not meant for hardwiring cameras to run off the battery. As such would drain the car's charge and diminish distance, performance, etc.
 
In 5 years, a car driven to-and-from somewhere 6 days a week will see 3650 charge/discharge cycles. A decent LiFePO4 battery will last 5000 cycles, much longer. So at near-equal cost the advantage is clearly for the LiFePO4 battery. Even if you get 7 years life from your 'car' battery (which not too many people do) you still come out ahead for not carrying around it's weight versus the lightness of the LiFePO4 . The only parameters where any L/A battery wins is working temperature range, initial cost, and more rapid charging. Since the cost advantage is lost over time, and the LiFePO4 barttery is in the climate-controlled part of the car where operating temps should always be OK, that leaves faster charging as the only thing to recommend it.

And further, as that 'car' battery wears, your parking time becomes shorter and shorter due to the wear characteristics of L/A batteries. You'll have about half of the original recording time for the last 1/4 of that batteries service life. But with LiFePO4 you'll lose very little recording time till it's last 8 or so months of life, and then you'll never lose more than 20%.

The world is full of armchair experts, so everyone should do their own research. If you want to understand LiFePO4 and why it's superior, one place worth looking is DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse on YouTube, and on his website. He has the knowledge, testing equipment, experience, and has run the numbers and tested this stuff. What he says checks out against all the others I've found with expertise in this field. Once you do look into this you'll find everything I've said is true, and then you'll make the right choice on your own.

Phil
 
All i know is many off grid people, that have started out with a few solar panels or a little wind turbine, and lead acid batteries, they all ditch those lead acid batteries as soon as they can
 
Even if you get 7 years life from your 'car' battery (which not too many people do)
You won't get 7 years from a lead acid if you discharge it by 50% of rated capacity every day by running a camera, not even from an AGM.
A decent LiFePO4 battery will last 5000 cycles, much longer.
That is if you fully discharge it to empty and full charge it to full every day, if you have one with decent capacity so that you only discharge it to 50% then you can triple the number of charges and it will die of old age first, they are normally rated for around 15 years.
 
All i know is many off grid people, that have started out with a few solar panels or a little wind turbine, and lead acid batteries, they all ditch those lead acid batteries as soon as they can
I think the main reason is that as the lead acid fills up, the charge rate gets slower and slower, taking hours to fill the last 10% while the LiFePO4 can charge flat out until 100% full.
 
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