DC with 3 wire going dark/ shutting down randomly

GPS mount?

Yes, I have my timezone set so the GPS auto sets the time. If unplugged for a few hours the time resets back to 01/01/2018 until the GPS reupdates it.

I would start from the beginning with the installation, and then carefully documenting every step, every system affected until the problem is identified. Based on our experience it is highly unlikely that the hardwire kit is at fault.

I have reported just about every step I took along with screenshots. I did think it was a grounding issue at first but after testing multiple ground points and putting the HW kit on those points I have had the same issue.

for anyone that has had an issue we've replaced the hardwire kit anyway just in case, to date we've only had one that was confirmed to be faulty
If someone has a 800cca battery, cca is cold cranking amps. (To start the engine) Primary function Question of that battery would be how much power is available for a short burst, not how much standby capacity it has. If a dashcam was cutting off at some shorter period say under an hour or so you might think it's a hardware problem, computer controlled circuit etc but that is unlikely when it's going 4 to 5 hours each time. Many people think car batteries are huge so they have massive potential, but it doesn't work like that unfortunately.

Here is the battery I have in my car https://costco.interstatebatteries....26&choice4=1207627&choice5=1207628&Country=US
 
Yes, I have my timezone set so the GPS auto sets the time. If unplugged for a few hours the time resets back to 01/01/2018 until the GPS reupdates it.

That’s something else rare unrelated, Replacement SG9663DC was sent out today. You should have an email with that tracking info.
 
in broad terms a larger capacity battery is going to offer better standby times for parking mode, CCA rating is how much power is available for starting the vehicle, deep cycle or AGM batteries may have better standby time than SLA batteries even though they can be similar in specification for things like CCA rating
 
Okay, so I decided to do some more testing, so as of now once I turn my car off the light in the HW kit turns off too. I have it set to 11.8V and multimeter is showing 12.4. Since I still had the old hardware kit I decided to test it with the fuses under the hood. Plugged it in and made the ground to the battery ground and the light turned on while the other one remained off. Both are set to 11.8V. So I then decided to hook up the old HW kit again into the same fuses I have the new one in. The light turned on when I plugged them in. I was making the ground cable touch the same bolt the other HW kit was on.

Any idea's on why one HW kit will remain on and the other won't even though they are on the same setting? I'm wondering if the issue is a grounding issue, they do spark when I touch the ground cable to the bolt. What would you guys recommend I do to the multimeter to test it?

Also any other test you guys recommend I do before the new camera comes?
 
a poor ground can definitely impact the results, is it a factory grounding point where other cables are connected, or something else you're grounded to?
 
a poor ground can definitely impact the results, is it a factory grounding point where other cables are connected, or something else you're grounded to?
It is something else. The factory ground point I think it deep in my dash and it a pain to get to. The first ground point was a bolt in my car near the body, I then moved it to a bolt/nut near the fuse box.


When I did this test both were on the nut/bolt near the fusebox. so they were on the same ground.
 
what fuses were you checking on under the hood?
I just hooked the battery cable up to the fuse marked as sec horn and left the acc cable unplugged
 
it doesn't work correctly with only one wire connected, you need to connect Ground, B+ and ACC, disconnect ACC only to test the switching
 
it doesn't work correctly with only one wire connected, you need to connect Ground, B+ and ACC, disconnect ACC only to test the switching
I did not have the camera plugged in I was just testing to see if it was the voltage cutoff causing the issue. The old HW kit the light remains on when plugging it in and having it set to 11.8v the new one remains off. I was using the old HW kit too see if the light would light up since the new one has the light off. If the light did not turn on then the voltage is low and would explain why parking mode keeps cutting. However, the light turned on, meaning the voltage was not low. I then plugged it in the same fuses I have the new HW kit into and touched the ground cable to the same ground point and the light did turn on.

I'm just wondering why does the light turn on in the old HW kit but the new one remains off until the car is started?
 
The hardwire cable you just received is from the most recent production, it has updated firmware compared to your previous cable
 
The hardwire cable you just received is from the most recent production, it has updated firmware compared to your previous cable
Ahh okay, that makes sense. What I might do tomorrow then is plug the new HW cable into the same fuse I tested under the hood and put the ground onto the battery ground and see how it goes. If it lights up with it under the hood I would guess there is an issue with the ground point under the dash then?
 
Wiring it direct to battery is a good way to confirm operation, as mentioned previously work backwards to locate the problem
 
Wiring it direct to battery is a good way to confirm operation, as mentioned previously work backwards to locate the problem
Is there any way I can extend the ground cable to the battery since it won't be able to reach from inside my car to the battery? I will first test to see if it works with it on the battery ground. If it does another option I have read that people use is the bolt that holds the seat down.
 
Just take the hardwire kit direct to the battery is what I meant, confirm correct operation prior to installing

A good grounding point is very important, finding the factory earth point for the fuse panel would be a better option
 
Just take the hardwire kit direct to the battery is what I meant, confirm correct operation prior to installing

A good grounding point is very important, finding the factory earth point for the fuse panel would be a better option

Ahh, nevermind I see what you are saying, what would I use to attach the HW kit to the battery? Another issue is running it through the firewall as I think I said in another post. I could always run it out the door and under the hood but not sure how well that would work. Even then I still feel that since I tried multiple fuses that are always on there is an issue somewhere.
 
Taking it to the battery is just a test for now, wasn't suggesting that as a permanent solution
How would I hook it up to the battery?
 
I don't know what resources you have available there but it's only for test purposes, not for any length of time
 
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