DC with 3 wire going dark/ shutting down randomly

[winter4w]

I don't know what resources you have available there but it's only for test purposes, not for any length of time

Yea I don't have many tools to go about trying that test. The only option I'm seeing here is to try the Cellink NEO Battery but that is not a cheap route :/

 

[jokiin]

don't think you need to go that far

 

[Damn Dirty Ape]

If you’re getting 4 to 5 hours in parking mode, to me it sounds like a general battery health issue rather than a bug.

Well, it's about 2 months old, 850cca interstate brand. I'll consider your thought and have it load tested at 2 different places today. My alternator charges 14.1 on idle with A/C and headlights on. I think that speaks to the health of my charging system in a 4 month old car. I saw where the
size of the cca was mentioned, wouldn't an 850cca have more reserve for something like this application than a 480cca for instance? The 850 sure is a lot heavier indicating more of something inside.


If a load test indicates a fault in the battery I'll get it swapped - two faulty batteries in a row would be rather odd.

 

[jokiin]

an 850cca battery has a lot more starting power than a 480cca battery, it is not a rating of the reserve capacity though, cca is cold cranking amps which is how much power is available for starting the car which is the primary purpose of any vehicle battery, load testing is test of that function and won't give any indication of how long the battery can power other devices for, it is a general health check but not really for the purpose we need

 

[wozzzzza]

The hardwire cable you just received is from the most recent production, it has updated firmware compared to your previous cable

can we update this firmware or not?? whats changed?

 

[Street Guardian USA]

can we update this firmware or not?

No, Not updatable in the field

 

[winter4w]

New camera came in and did some testing. I will see in a few days if I run into the same issue from it not starting up when I start the car. However, I am still having the same issues with the parking mode. Anything else I should try?

 

[Street Guardian USA]

New camera came in and did some testing. I will see in a few days if I run into the same issue from it not starting up when I start the car. However, I am still having the same issues with the parking mode. Anything else I should try?

Ok well we replaced everything so must be something going on with the car. Time to change as much as possible (fuse location or maybe setup in another vehicle short term) to start ruling other things out.

 

[winter4w]

Ok well we replaced everything so must be something going on with the car. Time to change as much as possible (fuse location or maybe setup in another vehicle short term) to start ruling other things out.

I can give another car a try and see how it works overnight. Here is the list of things I have tried already

• New Car Battery
• Multiple fuse locations along with unused fuse slot locations
• Multiple bolts for the ground point
• Under the hood fuses connected to the battery ground (Only the Old HW kit lit up for that one)
• Put a multimeter on the battery for 5-10 minutes and watched it in case of a voltage drop
• New HW kit
• New Camera

Anything I am missing? If its the car what else could be wrong? The alternator is good since it shows 13-14v when its on.

I could give another HW kit brand a try and see what happens, however, I would lose the timelapse feature. I'm starting to think I will need to get the Cellink NEO which is expensive but the main feature I am looking for is parking mode. Do you guys sell a kit for the NEO or would it be just as easy to splice the wires on the HW kit and connect it to the NEO unspliced?

 

[jokiin]

the hardwire kit can be connected to the Neo, we have several customers using it like that now

 

[winter4w]

the hardwire kit can be connected to the Neo, we have several customers using it like that now

Well if there is nothing else I can try or test I guess I'll throw in the towel on parking mode. Reviewing the SD card before the new cam I saw on random occasions the camera did remain in parking mode until I returned. But usually its just the one clip of parking mode.

 

[TCK81]

@winter4w As I believe jokiin mentioned previously I would run the constant power wire directly to your battery (or another jumper location that attaches directly to the battery). This way you will bypass all of your vehicle electronics that may be at play. Your accessory wire should be okay with it's currently location. It has to be a constant power issue.

For testing purposes while you're parked use a long wire to run outside of your vehicle (through your rolled down side window) and under the hood to the battery. You'll either need to crimp the wires from your hardwiring kit to the extension wire or twist them together really well (and cover with electrical tape).

 

[winter4w]

@winter4w As I believe jokiin mentioned previously I would run the constant power wire directly to your battery (or another jumper location that attaches directly to the battery). This way you will bypass all of your vehicle electronics that may be at play. Your accessory wire should be okay with it's currently location. It has to be a constant power issue.

For testing purposes while you're parked use a long wire to run outside of your vehicle (through your rolled down side window) and under the hood to the battery. You'll either need to crimp the wires from your hardwiring kit to the extension wire or twist them together really well (and cover with electrical tape).

I would give that a try its just I don't have the resources to try it. Such as I don't have the extra wire nor know what's a good wire to get that won't be at risk for starting a fire if it shorts. Plus I would like the fuse to be there in case of a short. I had a friend who hardwired his LED light bar to his battery and it shorted and caused a fire. Luckily he was able to extinguish it in time lol. I don't think it is a constant power issue since I tried multiple fuses and sat and watched the camera when it turned off. Such as the ODB-II fuse is always on. I waited for the camera to turn off then plugged my ODB-II reader in and it lit up. If power was cut to that fuse slot the reader would have not worked. I also looked at the HW kit too see if it would turn back on and it did not. The battery voltage was 12.4v as well with the cutoff on the HW kit was set to 12.0v at the time. The new HW kit I think is the voltage cutoff, as when I plug it into the empty fuse slot the light turns on for a second then turns back off.

What made me assume it was the HW kit at first was with the old HW kit once I removed it from the fuse slot and plugged it back in the light would turn back on. After a while of it plugged into the camera it would turn back off. However, at times, the camera would remain on and stay in parking mode.

With the multimeter, I sat and watched it for around 5 minutes and it showed stedy voltage. The first test was with he positive in the fuse slot second was on the battery. I did notice though the voltage in the fuse panel was reading a little lower than the battery such as tonight when I looked again it was reading 12.4 at the battery and 12.33 in the fuse panel. I just think it might be having a hard time getting an accurate reading on my cars voltage which could be due to its age, but that's just me guessing lol.

 

[TCK81]

I would give that a try its just I don't have the resources to try it. Such as I don't have the extra wire nor know what's a good wire to get that won't be at risk for starting a fire if it shorts. Plus I would like the fuse to be there in case of a short.

Any auto parts or hardware store has the wire and you can also purchase an inline fuse there as well. All of it wouldn't be very expensive. Any stranded 20-24 awg wire would work. Mind you it's just for testing purposes so purchase the cheapest you can get.

It looks like you've exhausted all other possibilities. There's something quirky going on and this testing method will at least rule out any power supply related issue between your hardwiring kit and battery.

 

[winter4w]

Any auto parts or hardware store has the wire and you can also purchase an inline fuse there as well. All of it wouldn't be very expensive. Any stranded 20-24 awg wire would work. Mind you it's just for testing purposes so purchase the cheapest you can get.

It looks like you've exhausted all other possibilities. There's something quirky going on and this testing method will at least rule out any power supply related issue between your hardwiring kit and battery.

Okay I'll see what I can find to test. Now thinking my friend might have some of the stuff since he builds electrical stuff such as power banks and electric skateboards. I will ask to see if he can help me test this out. Could I also get the wire from the battery terminal and wrap it around the add a fuse for power or would I have to splice the wires?

 

[TCK81]

Could I also get the wire from the battery terminal and wrap it around the add a fuse for power or would I have to splice the wires?

Yes, that's an option too. Just be 100% positive that the wire is making good contact. That would be my only worry and it's why I didn't mention it. I would strip at least 6" of wire and wrap it around the legs in a figure 8 pattern (won't work with low profile fuses if that's what you have) mixed in with individual leg wraps then tape around it to make sure it doesn't ground out.

 

[winter4w]

Yes, that's an option too. Just be 100% positive that the wire is making good contact. That would be my only worry and it's why I didn't mention it. I would strip at least 6" of wire and wrap it around the legs in a figure 8 pattern (won't work with low profile fuses if that's what you have) mixed in with individual leg wraps then tape around it to make sure it doesn't ground out.

Okay thanks, I talked to my friend we are going to try it today so Ill let you all know how it goes

Also as another question if I put both the battery and ACC on to a always on fuse will the voltage cutoff still work? If so I may give that a try only issue is I lose the time lapse mode when I park it.

 

[jokiin]

Also as another question if I put both the battery and ACC on to a always on fuse will the voltage cutoff still work? If so I may give that a try only issue is I lose the time lapse mode when I park it.

I'd have to test to confirm but I don't think the cutout would work in this situation, wiring it to run continuously like that would have other issues though anyway

 

[winter4w]

I'd have to test to confirm but I don't think the cutout would work in this situation, wiring it to run continuously like that would have other issues though anyway

Okay, so we did the test with the new HW kit and had the same issue when hooking it to the battery. To make sure it was my car having the issues we decided to set it up for testing on my friends 2013 Nissan Xterra and had the same thing happen. We did not do direct to his battery in his car, however, we did plug it into the fuse box under the hood and ground it to the battery. My friend did test the voltage going from the ground cable end to the ground point and it shows 11.5-11.4. However, when directly testing the voltage from the fuse to the ground it shows 12.4 on mine and 12.3 on his. I will try later tonight in my parent van to see what happens but at this point, I'm out of ideas lol?

 

[jokiin]

Not sure about your voltage readings there, let me know how you go with the further tests, other tests on our end will need to wait until Monday as I'm still in China right now