Do I need BATT+ installed?

Bendibanget

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Hello dashcam guru, I have some quick questions that I can't find in the manual:

Device: Lukas 9750 type B
Problem: not able to turn on

What I did so far:
- wiring rear-front cable
- laying wire from fuse to rear mirror area
- bought 1 add-a-circuit (low profile mini)
- bought 1 5A low profile mini fuse
- Insert red cable (ACC+) to add-a-circuit and pinched it
- bolt ground (GND) to 10mm bolt near fuse box
- Insert original fuse from ciggarete socket fuse (20A) and new 5A fuse into add-a-circuit
- plug add-a-circuit into ciggarete fuse slot back

After steps above, I plugged rear cam and dc-in cable to the camera. Then, I turn on the ignition. Ciggarete power was on, but Lukas did not booting.

Is it because I need to install BATT+ to one of the fuse? Or am I getting DOA device?

Fyi: my vehicle is Civic 2015.


Solution found from @CalgaryDashCam:
Good morning, I just got my multimeter from Amazon. Cheap, affordable, and pretty rigid one.

Here is my report to you: You are absolutely correct, MULTIMETER IS THE KEY. Finally I can found which fuse # has power when engine on or off super easily.

Fellow future readers, learn from my mistake: Do not assume fuse # either hot (always on) or not by the name. I got it wrong without multimeter. With multimeter I can easily tell by the DC amount (usually around 12ish) is there is a current.

I placed ACC from fuse for cigarette to fuel pump and placed BATT from door lock to un-used fuse slot.. Dashcam perfectly booting.

Thanks to CalgaryDashCam who guide me throughout my process. Hopefully future readers can found this thread to be helpful.
 
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Calgary Dash Camera - Robert

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Yes you absolutely need to connect the BATT+ to a powered fuse.
This is the line that supplies your camera with the power.
While the ACC+ line also needs to be connect to a powered line of some sort. This lines purpose is simply to supplie the camera with status of your vehicles ACC lines. Meaning this is what tells the camera if your vehicle is on or off.


Hello dashcam guru, I have some quick questions that I can't find in the manual:

Device: Lukas 9750 type B
Problem: not able to turn on

What I did so far:
- wiring rear-front cable
- laying wire from fuse to rear mirror area
- bought 1 add-a-circuit (low profile mini)
- bought 1 5A low profile mini fuse
- Insert red cable (ACC+) to add-a-circuit and pinched it
- bolt ground (GND) to 10mm bolt near fuse box
- Insert original fuse from ciggarete socket fuse (20A) and new 5A fuse into add-a-circuit
- plug add-a-circuit into ciggarete fuse slot back

After steps above, I plugged rear cam and dc-in cable to the camera. Then, I turn on the ignition. Ciggarete power was on, but Lukas did not booting.

Is it because I need to install BATT+ to one of the fuse? Or am I getting DOA device?

Fyi: my vehicle is Civic 2015.
 
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Bendibanget

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Yes you absolutely need to connect the BATT+ to a powered fuse.
This is the line that supplies your camera with the power.
While the ACC+ line also needs to be connect to a powered line of some sort. This lines purpose is simply to supplie the camera with status of your vehicles ACC lines. Meaning this is what tells the camera if your vehicle is on or off.
Thank you so much for replying!

I was really panic because I though ACC+ by itself should turn the camera on without having Parking Mode feature.

OK, I'll follow up after I install it tonight.
 
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Bendibanget

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Haha no worries! Let us know how it goes!
This morning I did install both BATT+ and ACC+, GND also bolted securely. However, I only have 7.5 amp fuse in my hand for BATT+ add-a-circuit.

ACC goes to cigarrete.
BATT goes to door lock.
I did try after tapping, both working properly as it should, but dashcam did not booting.

I guess, is it because fuse difference (5 amp for ACC and 7.5 amp for BATT)? If not, Do I need to flip add-a-circuit 180 degrees (I read one guy do this and works)?

And, another mistake, I tried to use 10 amp fuse. Yeah, I am ready to burn $300 camera after I realize 10 Amp is too high. :((((
 
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Bendibanget

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Oh, I was wondering if the both ACC and BATT cable has fuse on black-long tube few inches from the end cable...

Is it fuse inside it? If so, possibly I blow one of them.. And how I replace it?

Update: the black long tube in the power cable has fuse inside.. I checked them and all looks fine..

Sigh.. I guess I will go to the auto shop to get them installed. I will update what happen next.. So fellows can learn from my mistake.
 
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Calgary Dash Camera - Robert

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A multi meter is a wise investment! I can't tell you how many vehicles I have done where the fuses didn't seem work (turn on or off) like I would have thought.
I always use my multi meter to check which ones are live, and which ones are only live when the vehicle is running. Then proceed with the hardwire install.
 
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Bendibanget

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A multi meter is a wise investment! I can't tell you how many vehicles I have done where the fuses didn't seem work (turn on or off) like I would have thought.
I always use my multi meter to check which ones are live, and which ones are only live when the vehicle is running. Then proceed with the hardwire install.
Oh is it? I thought we can inspect whether fuse is OK or bad by looking if its connected..

About flipping add-a-circuit by 180 degrees, is that true?
 

Calgary Dash Camera - Robert

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Flipping the add-a-circuit shouldn't make a difference.

With a multi meter I am not checking if the fuses them selfs are working, I am checking if the line that they are plugged into is actually on or not. Sorry I am terrible at explaining fine details such as this!
 
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Bendibanget

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Flipping the add-a-circuit shouldn't make a difference.

With a multi meter I am not checking if the fuses them selfs are working, I am checking if the line that they are plugged into is actually on or not. Sorry I am terrible at explaining fine details such as this!
Yes, I follow your advice. I bought this:
LCD Digital Ohm VOLT Meter AC DC Voltmeter Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/gp/B005EK3NRS
And I guess I should check fuse # against ground bolt right? Btw, this is my fuse layout.. Screenshot_2015-07-14-12-29-38.png Screenshot_2015-07-14-12-29-47.png
 
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Bendibanget

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Where you able to install it properly now?
Good morning, I just got my multimeter from Amazon. Cheap, affordable, and pretty rigid one.

Here is my report to you: You are absolutely correct, MULTIMETER IS THE KEY. Finally I can found which fuse # has power when engine on or off super easily.

Fellow future readers, learn from my mistake: Do not assume fuse # either hot (always on) or not by the name. I got it wrong without multimeter. With multimeter I can easily tell by the DC amount (usually around 12ish) is there is a current.

I placed ACC from fuse for cigarette to fuel pump and placed BATT from door lock to un-used fuse slot.. Dashcam perfectly booting.

Thanks to CalgaryDashCam who guide me throughout my process. Hopefully future readers can found this thread to be helpful.
 

Calgary Dash Camera - Robert

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Lukasdirect.com Street Guardian BulletHD Calgarydashcam.com
Good morning, I just got my multimeter from Amazon. Cheap, affordable, and pretty rigid one.

Here is my report to you: You are absolutely correct, MULTIMETER IS THE KEY. Finally I can found which fuse # has power when engine on or off super easily.

Fellow future readers, learn from my mistake: Do not assume fuse # either hot (always on) or not by the name. I got it wrong without multimeter. With multimeter I can easily tell by the DC amount (usually around 12ish) is there is a current.

I placed ACC from fuse for cigarette to fuel pump and placed BATT from door lock to un-used fuse slot.. Dashcam perfectly booting.

Thanks to CalgaryDashCam who guide me throughout my process. Hopefully future readers can found this thread to be helpful.
I am thrilled to hear this!!
Glad I was able to help you. I made these same mistakes on my first install.
 
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