English Manual: Constant power supply (battery discharge prevention) device, MS Multi Safer

is there not a version of cpusb01 for the panorama g? I don't want/need the parking mode and all the extra wires and don't really want the adapter docket. Just wondering here..
 
Damn Dirty Ape said:
is there not a version of cpusb01 for the panorama g? I don't want/need the parking mode and all the extra wires and don't really want the adapter docket. Just wondering here..
Click to expand...

Street Guardian / CELL POWER, will have more 12V direct and 5V micro/mini USB hard wire kit options in a few months, but nothing yet. You should be able to hide everything under the dash in most cars.
 
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AUGUST 2015:

"Multi Safer" will occasionally be labeled "FS "FINE Safer S"
(but it's the same product from the same factory)
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Updated (same) instructions:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e31bzha4d4ytctq/FINESaferS_EN-manual.pdf?dl=0
 
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I think I'll be buying this soon...a few questions if you don't mind 🙂

I've hardwired a dash cam into a car before so know the basics (no BDP, but just a two pole switch for batt and acc!)

1. If I'm connecting a dashcam which has motion detection with buffering (street guardian SGZC12RC) but no "parking mode", do I need to connect the ACC wire? (the camera will constantly be in motion detection mode)

2. I'll be installing it in a BMW. I've seen it mentioned that fuse taps may throw an error code, so should I wire it straight into the battery? What about the ACC (ignition switched) wire? (if needed)

3. If I set BOTH 6 hours and 12.2v, it will turn the dash cam off after 6 hours, regardless of the battery voltage?

4. I can plug in a splitter and use two dash cams?

5. Assuming both the battery and ACC wires are connected, what is the purpose of ACC mode (when the button is pressed)?

Thanks!
 
1) If you never plan to hit the button that switches from ACC to BAT wire, no you don't have to hook it up. I'd just hook BOTH wires to the BAT. (and then never hit the button)

2) BMW's are tricky if you pick the wrong source, could result in a computer error from detected load changes. I don't have an exact work around for you, so would be happy to learn what you find out works

3) It will record until which ever event comes first. (timer will be the last the turn it off if voltage remains high)

4) Yes, I'm doing this since I currently use two SGZC12RC in my Mustang Boss.
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/posts/?post_id=151447

5) If it's dead of winter and you want to be 100% sure zero current is being used on a special occasion you can hit the button to turn back tin driving only mode. You'll rarely hit the button if other. There might be other reasons you want to temporarily switch to driving only mode. (privacy/etc)
 
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Thanks for your help Pier 🙂 A few responses!

1. Is there any benefit to connecting both wires to the battery, instead of just the one meant for the battery (yellow)?

2. Ha, ok! Depending on #1 I may be doing some research and testing on this.

3. "It will record until which ever event comes first. (timer will be the last the turn it off if voltage remains high)" Sorry, I do not understand...

For example...
Multi-safe settings:
-Voltage cut-off set to 12.2v.
-Timer cut-off set to 6 hours

The car is switched off for 6 hours. Battery voltage drops to 12.5v. Does the dashcam turn off?

4. Thanks!

5. Thanks 🙂
 
if timer is set for 6 hours it turns off in 6 hours, if the voltage drops lower than your preset before that then it will turn off regardless, time or voltage, whichever comes first
 
Thanks Jokiin, that's what I wanted to hear. I don't need the cameras running all night, every night 🙂
 
(not sure if this was discussed in the instructions)
Up to how many camera can you connect to this?

is it possible to connect this to a 7 Way DC Socket Splitter ?
 
after 2 years of faithful service, my panoBDP is acting up. it won't change from ACC mode (red LED) to CONSTANT mode (blue LED). I did try to switch modes after starting the engine as instructed but when it does switch to CONSTANT mode it will only blink blue for about 5 seconds and then will go back to red LEDs. i'll trouble-shoot some more at lunch but has anyone else dealt with this?
 
No other reports but electronics do fail from time to time as you know.

If you need to upgrade I would get a Vico-Power Plus
 
I have wanted to re-do all my wiring at some point and this may force my hand to do it this weekend. if it still acts up then i'll consider a vico power but $60 isn't cheap especially when the multi safer was working so trouble free all this time. hopefully it's just something simple like a stuck button. fingers crossed.
 
well, it was an easier fix than I thought. one of the pins was not making consistent contact with the wiring harness. I bent it back a bit and it's all good now.
 
Hello...
Would it be okay if I spliced TWO dashcam wiring kits into the multisafer?

I plan to cut cigar-jack off and splice directly into the kit. So there will be 2 positive and 2 negative cables going into the cigar-jack's wiring.
 
o4komodo said:
Hello...
Would it be okay if I spliced TWO dashcam wiring kits into the multisafer?

I plan to cut cigar-jack off and splice directly into the kit. So there will be 2 positive and 2 negative cables going into the cigar-jack's wiring.
Click to expand...

will work fine on this model
 
I know this is an old topic but it seemed a good place to try, would this kit be suitable to run a Viofo A129 Duo?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
the multi safer is just a timer/low power cutoff, you still use the power supply that comes with your camera so it will work with this no problem
 
jokiin said:
the multi safer is just a timer/low power cutoff, you still use the power supply that comes with your camera so it will work with this no problem
Click to expand...

Thank you very much. I plan to do the instal next week [emoji106]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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