F750 staying in parking mode

Bigrob91

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Hey all, I just had my f750 hardwired to the fuse box. For some reason it does not want to come out of parking mode regardless of the ignition being turned on or off. Before I start messing with anything does anyone have any suggestions as to what the issue might be?
 

WA3PNT

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It can take up to one minute for the F750 to enter the Parking Mode from the Continuous Recording mode.
If it is not entering the Parking Mode, that is most likely because the 12V on the Accessory Wire is not dropping off.
In many installations, depending on where the 12V Accessory Wire is attached, you may have to open the door, or wait for some built in delay, before the 12V drops.

On my RAM 3500, when I turn the ignition off, until I open the door, the 12V remains on. Even then, as mentioned, it can take up to a minute for the F750 to enter Parking Mode.

RodeoGeorge
 
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Bigrob91

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I have a ram 1500 (2016 rebel) the problem is it is staying in parking mode and not going to continuous recording, even while I am driving it was staying in parking mode
 

WA3PNT

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I have a ram 1500 (2016 rebel) the problem is it is staying in parking mode and not going to continuous recording, even while I am driving it was staying in parking mode
Sorry I misread your post.
Well, if it goes into and stays in Parking Mode, it is receiving the 12V on the Battery (yellow) Wire, but is not receiving the 12V on the Accessory (Red) Wire.
Can you measure the Red wire where it connects to the vehicle and see if there is 12V at that point.
If there is, that would point to a defective Hardware Kit Cable.

RodeoGeorge
 
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Bigrob91

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When you mean measure you mean measure the voltage at the connection ?
 

WA3PNT

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When you mean measure you mean measure the voltage at the connection ?
Yes, if you have a voltmeter, or a test light, check the voltage where the Red and Yellow wires connect into your system. With the ignition ON, you should have 12V on both wires. With the ignition OFF you should have voltage on the Yellow wire, and no voltage on the Red wire.

RodeoGeorge
 
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Bigrob91

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Yes, if you have a voltmeter, or a test light, check the voltage where the Red and Yellow wires connect into your system. With the ignition ON, you should have 12V on both wires. With the ignition OFF you should have voltage on the Yellow wire, and no voltage on the Red wire.

RodeoGeorge
Okay, it looked like the wires were switched up. Now I switched them up to the correct way and now the camera turns off when I turn the truck off.
Also the fuse box in my 1500. You open the fuse box up and see all the fuses (obviously) all the wires come from the underside of the box. Is that the case with yours? And if so how did you wire it? The person that did mine did a bad job and just ran into the top of the box which now pinchs the wires when it is closed.
 

WA3PNT

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I did not go into the Fuse Box.
I went under the dash and probed the wires in the harnesses that led to the Pedal Position Switch and another switch (I don't remember which as it was several years ago) to obtain "continuous" 12V and "switched" 12V.
I use these taps to power numerous devices (through individual fuses) such as my Garmin GPS, Radar Detector, TPMS, Rear View Camera Monitor (on the back of the 5th Wheel), and Dash Cam.
That way I did not have to go through the firewall with any wires, or into the Fuse Box.

RodeoGeorge
 
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Bigrob91

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I did not go into the Fuse Box.
I went under the dash and probed the wires in the harnesses that led to the Pedal Position Switch and another switch (I don't remember which as it was several years ago) to obtain "continuous" 12V and "switched" 12V.
I use these taps to power numerous devices (through individual fuses) such as my Garmin GPS, Radar Detector, TPMS, Rear View Camera Monitor (on the back of the 5th Wheel), and Dash Cam.
That way I did not have to go through the firewall with any wires, or into the Fuse Box.

RodeoGeorge
Thank you for your help, the guy that wired it ran it into the top of the fuse box and plugged it in where fuses are supposed to be. So the connection he made did not have a fuse in either spot which is no bueno on top of the the wires being pinched between the lid of the fuse box cover. I disconnected it and it's tapped to the top of the fuse box cover right now. My truck will be at the dealer on Tuesday and I'm gonna see what they suggest I'm debating running a new fuse block connected to the battery. Because I will be installing accessories in the future.
 

Brad@TWF750

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Thank you for your help, the guy that wired it ran it into the top of the fuse box and plugged it in where fuses are supposed to be. So the connection he made did not have a fuse in either spot which is no bueno on top of the the wires being pinched between the lid of the fuse box cover. I disconnected it and it's tapped to the top of the fuse box cover right now. My truck will be at the dealer on Tuesday and I'm gonna see what they suggest I'm debating running a new fuse block connected to the battery. Because I will be installing accessories in the future.
Ok so I want to add on this discussion. I have had my F750 for about 4 years and it's been in 3 different vehicles all with new hardwire kits and has worked flawlessly. Now I have a 2018 Ram 1500 and having a hard time. Similar to the OP mine works as it should however will go into continuous when I shift into drive and after driving a while goes back into parking mode then back to continuous again. I also have mine ran under my dash with ACC going to 12V wire behind the ignition and the Battery going to a constant 12V. And of course the ground. This is also my second hardwire kit for this truck as the 1st was defective.
 
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