F770 Incorrect Voltage Reading OR need Cellink-B

Gil

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Hi.
Watching some parking mode videos, I see the car battery level is getting to 11.2v~11.4v.
The cut-off power is 12.1v and the recording time is 12 hours.

It seems that something is wrong here but I'm not willing to take my chances.

What is the best way to hardwire using Cellink B? I live in Australia and I want to be sure that when I purchase it, I get all the required accessories that needed for the F770.
 

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Gil

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Does this help? Something i knocked up to give engineers who have never fitted one before a 'heads up'. Never actually done one myself though!

https://chameleoncodewing-my.sharepoint.com/personal/spaget_chameleoncodewing_co_uk/_layouts/15/guestaccess.aspx?docid=1382b93e26a9d4fea8b4d261ba7e593a7&authkey=AdAf3AE2eXcOzuWR-qsEQcU

You will need to chop the cigar plug off and connect Thinkware wires to that.
So I need to use the Thinkware cigarette lighter power adapter onto the Cellink?
 

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The other way around, use the Thinkware Hardwire cable and connect that to the wires going to the cigar plug of the Cellink but ignition supply to the Thinkware comes straight from the car still not from the Cellink.
 

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I'm pretty sure the Cellink B battery package comes with the option of either cigarette adaptor input and the add-a-fuse (direct fuse box connection) connector hard wire kit. My one did, anyway. Same for the outputs from Cellink B (either hard wire to the dash cam or cigarette adaptor output). No need to chop up wires. All you will need are a set of crimps for the add-a-fuse fuse box connection and terminal connectors / soldering iron to connect the two sets of wires together (I used terminal bullet connectors).
 
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Gil

Gil

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I'm pretty sure the Cellink B battery package comes with the option of either cigarette adaptor input and the add-a-fuse (direct fuse box connection) connector hard wire kit. My one did, anyway. Same for the outputs from Cellink B (either hard wire to the dash cam or cigarette adaptor output). No need to chop up wires. All you will need are a set of crimps for the add-a-fuse fuse box connection and terminal connectors / soldering iron to connect the two sets of wires together (I used terminal bullet connectors).
It's Australia, we get things differently here. Search for Cellink B on eBay.com.au, see the images and descriptions then you'd understand why I asked what I've asked :)

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BlackboxMyCar

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We don't really like shipping the batteries internationally, especially if there's already a distributor there. But if you're just looking for the wiring harness we can definitely get you a quote for shipping!
 
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Gil

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DashcamUser1

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Chop it is then. Or, to get the additional hard wire wiring harnesses from blackboxmycar.
 

SawMaster

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The shipping of Lithium batteries (such as powerbanks use) has become heavily regulated and expensive. It is often cheaper to buy from somebody in your area now than to buy direct from China :rolleyes: At the very least you should check several sources for current prices including shipping, and confirm that they will ship to your area.

It's a big change in things compared to how things were even just six months ago. and whoever may have been cheapest then can be more expensive than the others now. The prices are up and aren't going to get any better :(

Phil
 

Maddog1974

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The shipping of Lithium batteries (such as powerbanks use) has become heavily regulated and expensive. It is often cheaper to buy from somebody in your area now than to buy direct from China :rolleyes: At the very least you should check several sources for current prices including shipping, and confirm that they will ship to your area.

It's a big change in things compared to how things were even just six months ago. and whoever may have been cheapest then can be more expensive than the others now. The prices are up and aren't going to get any better :(

Phil
Agree here we could only find 1 courier prepared to deliver us the Thinkware iVolt battery packs from South Korea! Others wouldn't touch them because of the Lithium Battery Risk.
 

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I'm kind of thinking I'd first be figuring out how/why the OPs F770 isn't shutting down at the voltage/time threshhold.
 
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Gil

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I'm kind of thinking I'd first be figuring out how/why the OPs F770 isn't shutting down at the voltage/time threshhold.
True. That's also concerning.

I wish the Cellink-B wasn't that expensive and complicated to install.
 
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Gil

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So I'm about to finally make the move and buy the Cellink B.

The F770 got to a point where it is about to deplete the car's battery. I don't even get over 1 minute of parking mode recording. For instance, I got a parking ticket today I I use motion detection. I wanted to see the video when I get the ticket, but it didn't record.
I got the ticket at 3:30PM.
I left the car at 2:45 and came back at 6:54 and started the car. That is exactly the gap I have in the videos. Car battery voltage indicated by the Dashcam is on 11.5v. The cutoff power is 12.1v. Therefore, make sense to not have the videos.

So, this is how the f770 is wired.

Where exactly will the Cellink-B fit in this diagram?

battery.png
 

BlackboxMyCar

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Hi Gil,
I think there's something wrong with your F770 in that the voltage cutoff is not working. I would contact the seller and have it replaced under warranty. I have only ever seen this issue happen once, although to be fair it wouldn't affect Cellink users.

In terms of the wiring, I made a crude drawing trying to illustrate it. Make sure the Cellink output cable you have has the three wires. Some I've seen only have two wires for cigarette socket output but the Thinkware requires three

 
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Gil

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Hi Gil,
I think there's something wrong with your F770 in that the voltage cutoff is not working. I would contact the seller and have it replaced under warranty. I have only ever seen this issue happen once, although to be fair it wouldn't affect Cellink users.

In terms of the wiring, I made a crude drawing trying to illustrate it. Make sure the Cellink output cable you have has the three wires. Some I've seen only have two wires for cigarette socket output but the Thinkware requires three


Hi,

I have contacted the seller and the distributor. I will also create a separate post here about the voltage reading issue.

Regarding the Cellink-B, I have sent an email to the seller, asking for the Cellink output cables to be the with ACC/BAT/GND, by referring them to the video I have found in one of the posts here. It shows the missing cable at 4:03 minute.

So here is a more pleasing looking diagram of the wiring:

cellinkB.jpg
 
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Gil

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Thinkware video will show a deviation of about -1.1~-1.4 volts from the actual battery voltage.
My battery is measured 12.5v (+/- 0.1v).
Thinkware reading is 11.5.

The Parking Mode cutoff power is set to 12v.

When looking at the Parking Incident videos after parking at a busy place where the motion detection should constantly fire off, I only saw the video of when I was leaving the car.

Example of scenario:
I parked at 2:45pm and that is the only video in Parking Incident / Parking Image folders.
At 3:33pm I got a parking ticket. I wanted to see the video when I got the ticket, but this is when I discovered that 2:45pm is the last video.
I got back to my car at about 6:54pm.
This was a an open space car park with lots of movement. I should have found plenty more videos.

Video
See the video footage. Notice the Voltage and the date and time.


Image
See the voltage reading.
IMG_20170312_144943.jpg

As you can see in the video, the voltage drops to 10.5v, and this is when driving.
I videos from January that show 13~14v when driving.

Now if this problems happens in driving, imagine that I have this issue in parking.
So the dashcam will power off very quickly after Parking Mode is engaged.

Just to clarify, once I switch off the car I do hear the dashcam entering Parking Mode.
 
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flip9

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That's a massive voltage drop. I would guess its caused by poor wiring and connection points.

There's no way the actual battery voltage is dipping down to 10v while driving. The alternator/battery warning lamp would come on if it did.

If you've wired it correctly the cam reading should be within 0.1v of the battery terminal reading.

Where did you connect the wires too?
 
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Gil

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That's a massive voltage drop. I would guess its caused by poor wiring and connection points.

There's no way the actual battery voltage is dipping down to 10v while driving. The alternator/battery warning lamp would come on if it did.

If you've wired it correctly the cam reading should be within 0.1v of the battery terminal reading.

Where did you connect the wires too?
It's wired to my fuse box.
I used a piggy back fuse with crimps.
If the connection is poor, it should not work.
It's either a 0 or 1. Can't something in the middle.


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