F770 - IRoad power pack/Cellink B & parking record times

PhilCRV

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Hi All,

My CRV has stop/start which seems to mean the battery can be slightly different meaning it will reach the cut off voltage for paying recording sooner, hence I get a very short parking record time.

With this in mind I am looking at the IRoad power pack and power pack plus or Cellink B power supplies to see is I can increase my parking recording time.

What I can't figure out though is which ones best? IROad or Cellink? Larger Iroad or the standard version? Etc etc

Looking at the IRoads I think they advertise the plus will run a cam for 70+ hrs and the standard version for 35+ hrs, hoe does this compare with Cellink? Anyone have any idea?

Something a thought of is My cam has a 32GB card, how much parking incident footage possible recording time does that give me? Could I end up with a power supply giving me the possible power to record for 70 hrs only to find that because I used the motion sensor on parking setting and may park somewhere busy my parking incident memory was full within 5hrs of the 70hrs I recorded.

Surely there is an optimum? I don't want tony for battery power that won't capture an incident late in the park or be in a situation where the parking incident file cycles and starts overwriting (can it?) so I lose any early incidents?

Any help would be great, it's a big expense so don't to get it right (big expense as I'm going to get another f770 for better halves car and a power supply for mine or maybe both of someone knows where I can get best deals in uk?

Cheers
 
I have the front/rear F770, and find the best parking mode card wise is time lapse, this uses/takes 1 frame per second instead of 30, so won't fill the card up anywhere near as quick, you can also get a 64GB card from thinkwareuk, cost £40 delivered but is guaranteed to work, thinkware cams are VERY VERY fussy about card brands, very few others work.
Why not just buy a sealed lead acid battery a 12ah for example will run this cam for around 36hrs, for £20, simply run a live lead to existing live wire in car, via a relay so it disconnects the two when ignition is turned off, all depends how long you leave car for ?, getting a sealed lead acid battery means they can be mounted at any angle safely without any fear of acid spillage etc can be tucked behind dash spare wheel well etc etc
 

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I had this discussion with a mate a few minutes ago and advised him as he wanted to buy a lithium power pack/jump starter for £40 the same one I have in car(car is auto), to use that to power dash cam, so powered from ciggy lighter in boot that goes off with ignition, I will make up a EC5 connector lead to cam, it is 8000mah, and also of course very useful either use just for cam or placed conveniently use also for phone charging, jump starting up to 3.5l petrol/2.5l diesel engine, has light on it also steady or strobe for breakdown.
I have one of these SAKURA packs and have jumped started a 3l diesel that was very flat, a 2l petrol that was stone dead no lights nothing, it is just that it is so much more useful than these cell link made of same technology and 1/4 the price, I just like peace of mind knowing I have light in case of breakdown led warning strobe, jump pack etc and it still can do duty as cam battery, just a thought but it's what I am doing for my friends car.
 
You may not be aware that lithum power packs should not be stored in a hot vehicle ie, in the summer months a lock vehicle can reach very high temperatures they can become swollen and volatile and can explode, for that reason you should only consider Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, lithium) these batterys are more expensive than standard lithium batterys, I know personaly how you have use extreme care using and storing these standard lithium (LIPO) batterys, I would not like to store one in my locked car during the summer months, the only way I transport my standard lipo's is in fireproof bags inside an old ammo box, and never left inside the vehicle onced parked, and it was this very reason I chose the Cellink B whilst yes it is expensive but its safer and a small price to pay if your vehicle should catch light unattended.

That is the very reason any power packs containing standard lithium technology will be far cheaper than Cellink B and others that support Lithium Iron Phoshate technology.

This is part of paragraph taken from wiki:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate

LFP's major commercial advantages are that it poses few safety concerns such as overheating and explosion, as well as long cycle lifetimes, high power density and has a wider operating temperature range. Power plants and automobiles use LFP.
 
It's up to you what you do, but even the cars stored in the summer don't get any where near hot enough imo, I have suffered from a swelled battery so know of the risks, I would how ever think that either the generic word "lithium" that I use may not be the exact form, as these are sold and intended to be kept in cars and have approval, I do know GI's that keep these without problem in cars even in Arizona, maybe they are the chemistry you say as usual one can never be sure of anything, the same as one can never be 100% sure any product containing so much energy can't go catastrophically wrong even a cell link etc.
If I didn't think it safe I wouldn't do it I have the money for the "official" cell link or similar, it was merely a suggestion in how not to be ripped off, like some cam manufacturers do
 
It's up to you what you do, but even the cars stored in the summer don't get any where near hot enough imo,

don't underestimate how hot things can get, some testing we've been doing this week temps outside were 19°C on the day and we recorded 71°C inside the car, lucky it's not summer
 
we never get summer, my booster is stored by spare wheel, as I said the pack may very well be the"better" technology I just use a generic term, it is up to each person what they do, I don't expect we all do nothing wrong I know I do things wrong
 
we never get summer, my booster is stored by spare wheel, as I said the pack may very well be the"better" technology I just use a generic term, it is up to each person what they do, I don't expect we all do nothing wrong I know I do things wrong

those temps by the way were recorded in the UK, if it was here were summer temps are often in the mid 40's it gets as hot as hell inside the car
 
The max Time Lapse recording (with partition set to C) from a 64gb card is:

Single Cam 82hrs
Twin Cam 41hrs
 
Hi Maddog/Steve,

Longtime since we spoke mate hope your keeping well, if I can get around to it and I can dig out your number I shall be phoning you tomorrow mate on something separate, this bit I will keep on the forum though as it maybe if use to others.

Thanks for clarifying my original query re how long you can record in the time lapse mode, I take it you can just halve that for a 32gb card? Personally I can't get on with time lapse and I have my parking set to motion activated, I had one incident where I needed parking footage and it was set in time lapse at the time, I found I nigh on useless for clearly showing what went on (group of people) I now keep it set for motion so any footage is in realtime.

I realise the time it takes to fill up on motion activated footage depends on the variables such as how often it's triggered etc but surely there must be a finite amount of memory available for it when set to motion no matter if it's taking 42 hrs to fill thc memory to that point because it's parked somewhere really quite or maybe it fills this allocated space in 6 hours as you parked somewhere busy, the available space will be the same it just fills at different rates.

So after all my waffling (apologies) any idea how long in hours I could expect to be able to record motion activated asking footage for using a 32gb card?

Cheers
 
A 32gb card has around 30gb of usable space of this 15% is saved for parking motion on Partition C setting (approx 4.5gb) each 20 second movement clip is around 20mb (from memory i dont have a motion activated one here to check!) so around 225 clips so about 75 mins of solid parking motion. Depends how many motions are being triggered in reality to how long that equates too....

The above is all rough but should give an idea!
 
Best to compare the Watt-hour rating of the batteries to see what kind of times you get. The battery pack manufacturer claims of how many hours it can last might be based on a more energy efficient 1CH camera.
 
Why not just buy a sealed lead acid battery a 12ah for example will run this cam for around 36hrs, for £20, simply run a live lead to existing live wire in car, via a relay so it disconnects the two when ignition is turned off, all depends how long you leave car for ?, getting a sealed lead acid battery means they can be mounted at any angle safely without any fear of acid spillage etc can be tucked behind dash spare wheel well etc etc

Lead acid batteries don't really like being run from full to empty and back regularly.. I doubt it would last that long. If there was a deep cycle version (leisure battery) then that's different.

I'm currently experimenting with a 7.5watt solar panel and having good results (still in the early days of testing though). A 15watt one would probably run the camera consistently if directly supporting the main car battery (with decent light) but I am finding it hard to find a solid installable solution for a 15watt one. My front and rear camera were still operational after 17hrs from yesterday to today. God knows how much longer that would have gone on for but so far so good.
 
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