Fuse Tie-In

droidus

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I recently purchased a new 2020 F-150 (xlt), and the VIOFO A129 Pro Duo 4K Dual Dash Cam. I am thinking the best/simplest way for me to install this would be through the (passenger) fuse box. I had a few questions about this though. It seems the Power Point is tied to a 20A fuse. The power point has a regular outlet, and a cigarette outlet. I've been using the cigarette outlet. I unplug it every time I leave my truck though, afraid it will drain my battery (but I believe it gets powered off after so long when the truck is not running). My first question is, if I tie my dashcam directly into one of the fuses (looking at a 10A spare, as long as it is always powered on), and the dashcam only takes in 1A, what prevents 10A from frying it? Would having the camera tied in as such, drain my battery, be harmful to it, and/or kill it? Lastly, is this the best way to hook it up? I've seen the hk3acc hardwire kit, and I've also been told that I could tie it into my accessories harness.
 
Tapping into a harness should be avoided unless you really know what you're doing, e.g proper soldering skills.

The camera will pull what it needs, not 10A. Use a 2 or 5A fuse with a fuse-tap.

Harm to the battery can be avoided by using a cut-off value of 12.2 or more.
 
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You do need a voltage converter, 12v down to 5v, either the original power adaptor or the Viofo HK3 hardwire kit.

Too much voltage will kill the camera.
 
The camera will pull what it needs, not 10A. Use a 2 or 5A fuse with a fuse-tap.

Harm to the battery can be avoided by using a cut-off value of 12.2 or more.
Just curious, why do you recommend using a 2 or 5A over the 10A one, since they are both higher than the required 1A?
How do I know what I need to set it to? I have the make/model of my battery.
You do need a voltage converter, 12v down to 5v, either the original power adaptor or the Viofo HK3 hardwire kit.

Too much voltage will kill the camera.
So the HK3 will also convert the voltage then?
 
So the HK3 will also convert the voltage then?
Yes, the HK3 converts the voltage, turns off if the battery voltage gets low (empty battery), and can if you want detect the ignition on/off to put the camera into parking mode.

Just curious, why do you recommend using a 2 or 5A over the 10A one, since they are both higher than the required 1A?
Because the HK3 is built with 7.5A wiring (we think), which for safety should be protected with a 7.5A or less fuse, not a 10A one. A 5A is fine, 1A is probably OK, but start up current may be slightly more.
 
To determine the voltage, do I just look at the voltage output of the battery, and set it to that?
OK, that makes sense, thank you. I ask because I don't have many 5A ones, and the few that I do have, I think most are being used. Forgive my lack of knowledge, but if I were to install a 5A one for a device requiring 7.5A, wouldn't it not supply enough to the device then?
What makes a good or bad fuse tap/fuse? Anything that I should avoid? Here is what I am looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07R5W1HLG and https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07ZV4LY54.
 
You can tap into larger fuses, in fact you should go for 10A or higher, but the extra fuse for the camera should be 5A.

A good fuse tap is one that fits the car, different cars having different types of fuses. I don't think there is significant difference in quality.

The voltage you set on the HK3 is the voltage at which you want it to turn off, batteries when full are about 12.7v, you want it to turn off at 12.2v, or if you don't mind your battery working harder and don't live in the cold of Alaska then maybe 12.0 for a longer record time.
 
You can tap into larger fuses, in fact you should go for 10A or higher, but the extra fuse for the camera should be 5A.
To clarify, there are two (slots on the tap). I can use a 10A slot, but the one specifically for the dashcam should be 5A or lower?
 
Yes, the top fuse is for the camera which should be 5A or less to protect the HK3 cabling, and the other slot is for the original fuse.
 
@Nigel , I am a little confused with the hardware wiring kit. Does it work with the fuse panel? I am trying to figure out where the ACC and the Battery+ go to? I assume battery+ is to the positive side of the battery, but why is that necessary if using the fuse tap?
 
@Nigel , I am a little confused with the hardware wiring kit. Does it work with the fuse panel? I am trying to figure out where the ACC and the Battery+ go to? I assume battery+ is to the positive side of the battery, but why is that necessary if using the fuse tap?
The B+ cable normally gets connected to the fuse tap that has permanent power.
The ACC cable normally gets connected to a fuse tap that has power switched by the ignition switch.

The fuse taps are what you use to connect the cables to the fuse box.

Hope that makes sense, it is not clear to me what it is that you haven't understood yet, it is simple once you do understand!
 
I set my VIOFO HK3ACC Hardwire Kit to the highest possible setting, 12.4V 24.8V. After two minutes, the dashcam powers off after being in parking mode. Do I need to set it to a lower value? Do settings on the dashcam need to be adjusted?
 
See how long it lasts on 12.2...

Also check if the red LED in the HK3 turns off when the dashcam powers off?
 
At about 25 minutes, the front camera was powered on while the truck was off. I forgot to plug in the rear camera, so I did so, and for about another 10 minutes, it still recorded. I have it plugged in still, and I left it going.
I've attached my setup.
How long would it take to drive the vehicle if the dashcam took it down to 12.2V, to restore the battery to full again? I ask, because I don't drive a lot, especially every day (like to and from work).

IMG_20201103_160715.jpg
 
A 20 minute drive will put most of it back, to reach 100% actually takes hours since the last bit is very slow.
If you drive half an hour a day then you might get 24 hour recording, anything less and should probably turn the camera off when you don't need the parking mode so that the battery isn't always half flat.
The short record time at 12.4 suggests that your battery isn't very new, not an issue as long as it does record for a reasonable time at 12.2. If you have to use 12.0 then it is getting old.
 
It's about a 15 minute drive, or so. Do I need to manually turn off the camera then?
It should be - I actually recently purchased it. It is only about 2-3 months old.
 
You can long press the power button when you don't need parking mode, not a big issue if you forget. Better that way around than having to turn it on when you want parking mode, because then it does matter if you forget.

Don't worry about the 12.4, some batteries do run at slightly lower voltages. Don't go below 12.0 unless it is an AGM battery.
 
It is an AGM battery. What does that mean then?
So it sounds like I shouldn't use parking mode, in my case? Should I just tie it only into a fuse that is powered on when the car is running?
 
A AGM battery is a bit different from regular lead acid batteries, less of a problem discharging those deeply, though you of course dont want to go too low and you also need some kick to start the engine.
As i understand it the wear and tear on a AGM battery should be less of a problem than on a similar sized lead acid battery that really are not meant to be discharged at all other than what go on as you start your motor.

In regard to charging i think AGM are the same as lead acid so will take all your generator can give for starters and then as it get full the charge rate will be lowered to moderate Amps ( just like it also happen charging a phone )
Personally i would start with a higher cut off value and see how much that give you by the time stamps of the recordings made, and then if thats not enough maybe step a little down on cut off voltage.
2 X 15 minutes a day are not much but if you have been using parking guard chance are that the battery will be charging at full tilt, if you park in a drive way at home i would recommend not using parking guard there.
At home you are better off with a CCTV camera on the parked car, this also give bonus for your home, i have had this ( camera broken ) and i live in a apartment in a town, but i just put a camera on my 2 floor balcony door aimed at my car parked in the back yard.

The camera was PTZ and had 30 X zoom so i could look around, and most important had IR light so i could see anything in the pitch dark back yard.

 
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