Hard Wire Install - AM Radio Static

[dnichols]

I've been running two A119V2 cameras ( front and back) and powering them through the 12V sockets in my car. All good, no issues.

Today, I hardwired the front camera using a "Dash Cam Store" install kit (http://www.thedashcamstore.com/dashcam-installation-kit-5-volt-usb-plug-mini-fuse/). I tried various switched locations in my fuse box for the tap.

In every case...I get lots of static on AM radio stations. If I the unplug cord from the camera, the static stops immediately. I never had any problems with the same camera when running off of the 12V, so it is obviously being caused by the hardwire install.

It's not a big deal, just curious if there is anything I can do to resolve it. I've read posts suggesting adding snap on ferrite core rings to the the USB cable. Anyone have experience with this?

If so...am I correct that I'd position the rings at the "start" (i.e. next to the transformer) and at the "end" (i.e. near the camera itself)?

 

[Module 79L]

Did you route the USB cable through the same path the original power adapter's cable was in?

 

[dnichols]

Did you route the USB cable through the same path the original power adapter's cable was in?

Yes.
The hard wire kit plugs into the fuse box (via a fuse tap). I was previously using the front 12V cigarette lighter socket.
But...the USB portion of the cable is routed exactly the same way.

 

[SawMaster]

All RFI works similarly for all forms of radio. Here's a couple threads on the subject:
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/radio-interference-from-camera-mounted-in-rear-window.20620/
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/fm-interference.11958/

AM is the most susceptible to interference, and with it the PS is most often the culprit. You might start by making sure the cam and PS cable is not near the radio or antenna; distance is your friend here. If that's not enough, invest in a high-quality PS and a shielded USB cable. A hardwire kit is another alternative here; just don't tap into the radio fuse and again keep distance between parts.

More can be done but it can get complicated from here. This might be enough for stronger station signals, don't hold out a lot of hope for weaker signals though.

Phil

 

[DT MI]

In addition to the 2 threads @SawMaster posted there's a lot of discussion in this one as well:
https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/question-for-you-electronic-gurus-whoever-you-may-be.11857/

Edit: Oops, already linked in the 2 threads above.

 

[throrope]

I had FM interference with a rear mounted GS6000. Apparently, it was too close to the integrated antenna. Your difficulty may be created by the kit's proximity to your radio or antenna wire. Maybe a simple aluminum foil cover will be enough to correct the issue. I don't advocate using after market hardwire kits. I feel the electronics are configured for price point and expose expensive gear to potentially poor power quality.

I suggest forgoing the kit and use the provided cord with a loose 12V socket powered through your fuse tap and grounded direct to chassis (I had piggy-backed on a dome light ground only to find the car used both hot and ground to control the light.) Since the manufacturer's don't want radio interference creating product issues, your issue is unlikely when using provided gear. I have two Shadow Recorder GT680W's configured this way in daily service for several years with no issues. Since the provided cord includes a fuse, I powered a Garmin GPS and Cobra radar detector from the same circuit using multiple sockets hidden under the dash, connected with nylon ties and secured to prevent rattles. All three units fire up and shut down with ignition. The Garmin's power cord actually doubles as the live traffic HD antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B01H522IKK

 

[Module 79L]

AM is the most susceptible to interference, and with it the PS is most often the culprit. You might start by making sure the cam and PS cable is not near the radio or antenna; distance is your friend here. If that's not enough, invest in a high-quality PS and a shielded USB cable. A hardwire kit is another alternative here; just don't tap into the radio fuse and again keep distance between parts.

That's all been done:

The hard wire kit plugs into the fuse box (via a fuse tap). I was previously using the front 12V cigarette lighter socket. [Edit: with the stock PS and it didn't cause any interferences]
But...the USB portion of the cable is routed exactly the same way.

Yes.
The hard wire kit plugs into the fuse box (via a fuse tap). I was previously using the front 12V cigarette lighter socket.
But...the USB portion of the cable is routed exactly the same way.

Then may guess is that the poor quality of the cable is the culprit. You can try attaching the ferrite rings to it but I have my doubts it'll remove the interference.

 

[Module 79L]

I suggest forgoing the kit and use the provided cord with a loose 12V socket powered through your fuse tap and grounded direct to chassis (...)

That's also a good idea, since the stock power adapter didn't cause any interferences.