Hardwire Blackvue DR900X-2CH - Questions

eden188

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Hi All,

I have recently bought the Blackvue DR900X-2CH front and rear dashcam, and fancy fitting this myself. As I have zero electrical experience (I did managed to hardwire my wife's Fiesta ST with a NextBase 622GW front and back), so I would say I'm OK. However, my car is a bit more premium and want to do it right, so I would like some advise with wiring please.

Car: Volkswagen Touareg 3.0l diesel 92019)
Dashcam: Blackvue DR900X-2CH

Questions:
i. I have seen a post about wrapping the hardwire kit to the fuse leg, the reason I was looking at this is because the panel for the VW fuse box is flush against the fuse box, so I cannot use a fuse tap to piggy back on top as I would not be able to put the cover back over. What other method I can do this safely please?

Wrapping wire to fuse

ii. I would like to wire my my rear camera, it was quite straight forward in my wife's small car via the roof lining. I'm not as confident with my bigger car and hate to make a mess of the interior, are there other ways of doing this neatly please?

Thanks in advance.
 

Outbacknomad

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Your car's manual should have a list of all the fuses, my Land Rover does. Find one of propably 3 or more accessory circuits, there will be additional spare circuits, but generally if needed, tap off one of the existing accessory circuits. If you can't find one a Touareg forum will tell you the best fuse number.

Do it properly with heatshrink tube & the fuse supplied or an additional fuse or circuit breaker of the same rating for the camera/s. Don't just simply use the accessory 15 to 20amp fuse.
 
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eden188

eden188

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dodgy method
Thanks for the reply.

I appreciate that it is a dodgy method, as mentioned in my post, the fuse box does not provide sufficient space above the fuse to use a fuse tap (I have even bought these already without realising the problem), hence I wanted to see if anyone could recommend another way to connect to an existing fuse.

As you can see, there is no room to install a fuse tap and put the cover back on.
WhatsApp Image 2021-04-16 at 09.17.56.jpeg
 
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eden188

eden188

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Your car's manual should have a list of all the fuses, my Land Rover does. Find one of propably 3 or more accessory circuits, there will be additional spare circuits, but generally if needed, tap off one of the existing accessory circuits. If you can't find one a Touareg forum will tell you the best fuse number.

Do it properly with heatshrink tube & the fuse supplied or an additional fuse or circuit breaker of the same rating for the camera/s. Don't just simply use the accessory 15 to 20amp fuse.
Thanks @Outbacknomad for the reply.

Unfortunately, the manual states "At the time of publication we are unable to provide an complete overview locations of the fuses for the electrical consumers", so I contacted VW customer service which they have pointed me to their online website www.erwin.volkswagen.de that is used by their repair centres to download the fuse box details (Note, I have posted similar questions on another VW forum, thanks for the suggestions).

I have also looked into Blackvue's installation manual and online support, neither suggest what ampage fuse to use, which is surprising consider such an expensive dashcam. I guess I will contact their customer service to find more information.
 

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As you can see, there is no room to install a fuse tap and put the cover back on.
Then leave the cover off, it probably does not do anything useful other than add weight and increase the profits of the fuel station! (Not familiar with your vehicle.)
 

Outbacknomad

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I have 4 Garmin 56 cameras, in total with all 4 screens running & recording 1.4amps, so used a 3amp circuit breaker (have used panel circuit breakers for other additions & I like them for my situation)

2amps will be plenty high enough for 2 cameras, 1.5amps will most likely be more than adequate for 2 cameras.


I have a DC clamp meter, great things, but it only goes down to 0.1amps.

A trick is to wind the wire through the clamp say 4 times, then divide this reading by 4 to give a more accurate figure for small currents.
 
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eden188

eden188

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I have 4 Garmin 56 cameras, in total with all 4 screens running & recording 1.4amps, so used a 3amp circuit breaker (have used panel circuit breakers for other additions & I like them for my situation)

2amps will be plenty high enough for 2 cameras, 1.5amps will most likely be more than adequate for 2 cameras.


I have a DC clamp meter, great things, but it only goes down to 0.1amps.

A trick is to wind the wire through the clamp say 4 times, then divide this reading by 4 to give a more accurate figure for small currents.

Whooosh!! That went right over my head :D:D. I am really a novice to the electrical stuff, but really appreciate your detail reply. I will google that up and see what can be done. Many thanks.

It was really easy to install my wife's car as there was enough room to fit the fuse tap, also Nextbase hardwire kit provides the fuse tap with the necessary fuse so it was quite easy.

I'm not in a rush and I would like to arm myself with enough knowledge before start tackling this. Again, much appreciated! (y)(y)
 

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You can fabricate a fuse tap from a thin piece of metal with good conductivity (copper, brass, etc) which is shaped to match the fuse leg. I make mine from non-magnetic brass 'feeler gauge' blades with a wire soldered to them. Cut to the shortest length possible so nothing can short against it and use an inline fuse downstream.. Just pull the fuse, insert the tap, then replace the fuse which will hold it in place. Does good with low amperage loads like a dashcam and allows the cover to be refitted.

Also many cars have unused fuse slots which are powered and can be tapped into similarly. The biggest problem these days is finding circuits which behave the way you need them too; computer-controlled power schemes and CANBUS can change a circuit's power status after a time when the car is parked when it tested properly during the cam install.

Phil
 
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eden188

eden188

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You can fabricate a fuse tap from a thin piece of metal with good conductivity (copper, brass, etc) which is shaped to match the fuse leg. I make mine from non-magnetic brass 'feeler gauge' blades with a wire soldered to them. Cut to the shortest length possible so nothing can short against it and use an inline fuse downstream.. Just pull the fuse, insert the tap, then replace the fuse which will hold it in place. Does good with low amperage loads like a dashcam and allows the cover to be refitted.

Also many cars have unused fuse slots which are powered and can be tapped into similarly. The biggest problem these days is finding circuits which behave the way you need them too; computer-controlled power schemes and CANBUS can change a circuit's power status after a time when the car is parked when it tested properly during the cam install.

Phil

Thanks Phil, I will also look into this as well. Cheers (y)
 

Outbacknomad

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You can fabricate a fuse tap from a thin piece of metal with good conductivity (copper, brass, etc) which is shaped to match the fuse leg. I make mine from non-magnetic brass 'feeler gauge' blades with a wire soldered to them. Cut to the shortest length possible so nothing can short against it and use an inline fuse downstream.. Just pull the fuse, insert the tap, then replace the fuse which will hold it in place. Does good with low amperage loads like a dashcam and allows the cover to be refitted.

Also many cars have unused fuse slots which are powered and can be tapped into similarly. The biggest problem these days is finding circuits which behave the way you need them too; computer-controlled power schemes and CANBUS can change a circuit's power status after a time when the car is parked when it tested properly during the cam install.

Phil
Yes, CANBUS, a pain in the neck!

Inside a fuse box for those not game to open it.
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_MG_6492.jpg
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IMG_20200731_121306260-1.jpg
2815961005540584735.jpg
 
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eden188

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Just seen a YT video which shows there is a slightly better way instead of wrapping a wire around the fuse leg, although not as good as using a fuse tap, but better than just wrapping it around. I do need to find the LOAD and DRAW side of the fuse to plug in.

Item:
Fuse add-on

Video:
How to connect additional device to a fuse

I should be able to bend the male part of the extension so the cover should sits flush again.
 
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Outbacknomad

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A multimeter is the easiest way, even down under one can buy one for $10 & it will do up to 10amps so you can check the exact current of the cameras as well.
 
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eden188

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Thanks @Outbacknomad, absolute top guy/gal (apologies :)).I have a multi meter, will check that out. Those fuse taps are not available in UK and has to be bought from US :(, £24 in total!! :oops:. A small price to pay to get it (almost) right I guess :D
 
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Questions:
i. I have seen a post about wrapping the hardwire kit to the fuse leg, the reason I was looking at this is because the panel for the VW fuse box is flush against the fuse box, so I cannot use a fuse tap to piggy back on top as I would not be able to put the cover back over. What other method I can do this safely please?
I understand that the VW group uses similar fuse boxes throughout their line (Volkswagen, Audi, SEAT, ŠKODA, Bentley, Bugatti, Lamborghini, Porsche, Ducati, Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles, Scania and MAN). With that in mind, take a look at my fuse box and the video of the Macan install.

Left #3 for ACC; Middle #7 for PWR

View attachment 56265

 
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eden188

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Thanks for the video link @ImpliedConsent , that's really useful and provides some useful information. (Beautiful car btw :))

The Touareg has the fuse boxes in different places - Driver side footrest, under steering wheel, passenger footwell and boot. I will have a look at the equivalent fuses in the manual (copied and pasted below for anyone interested)

1618582855499.png1618582821026.png1618582903336.png1618582946733.png
 

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Outbacknomad

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Next time somebody insists that all the fuses are supplied by a single high power bus enabling you to take any amperage from any fuse location, I shall link to this post!
I have fried two of the three accessory socket circuits. I have not overloaded the specified 20amp fuses. So had to pull the box out and with the multimeter trace from the fuse to the correct wire in the plug. Pretty tedious stuff and bridge with an external fuse. On two separate occasions.

While at it I thought I would look inside the fuse box to see on the off chance I could repair it. As you can see it is not really possible.

Don't bother trying to open the fuse box, it was a challenge due to all the clips around the fuse cover. The car did work after I plugged it all back in. But I was a bit nervous. All I had to do was reset the clock. Relief!

The fuse layout is fairly similar across at least some Land Rovers that I have looked at. Fuse numbers are mostly the same for the same function. I have been told inside the box it is different for another model.

If you need more amps for something go straight to the battery via a relay... & Fuse. Do not under any circumstances up-rate a fuse. Personally after what I have seen inside the fuse box I would be inclined to derate accessory circuits by 25%!
 

Outbacknomad

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Please feel free to use the fuse box photos, anything to educate people not to overload circuits.
 

Nigel

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Please feel free to use the fuse box photos, anything to educate people not to overload circuits.
Thanks, there have been a number of arguments on this forum over how a fuse box works, I always warn people not to overload the circuits beyond the original fuse, but some people just won't accept that any fuse box would ever work differently to a household consumer unit/distribution panel with a single high power bus supplying all fuses. Your photos make it clear that at least some fuse boxes work very differently! Not only can the cables be overloaded, but also PCB tracks and relays, and the result can be very expensive to fix!
 
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