Hardwire Dashcam - Fuse Tap or Breakout Fuse

Ghost_Rider_1970

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Hi, I would be so very grateful for your help and advice.

I am looking to hardwire a Toguard dashcam to my 2005 Focus Estate and have an ORSKEY hardwire kit. I've connected it all up except for the fuse box where the supplied 'mini' fuse taps won't fit into my fuse box. It looks like the flat rather than tapered blades won't quite line up with the slots.

I'm therefore either contemplating getting another fuse tap or a breakout fuse. Can anyone please advise on a UK compatible product?

Also, the fuse taps I have connect rather than crimp so will standard fuse taps still fit? With these being double-fused, are these independently isolated and does it matter if the lower slot (existing) fuse is higher rated than the top (dashcam) fuse?

Another alternative I've come across is to use either a breakout fuse or a brass fuse adapter. These simply result in a positive feed from the existing fuse. My question is, as two components are effectively running on one single fuse could this result in an overload - or even under protection?

For example, my dashcam is rated at 10 amps. If I use an exiting 10 amp component (e.g. interior lights) could that result in a maximum of 20 amps going through my 10 amp fuse so effectively blowing it? Also, if I use an existing 20 amp fuse (e.g. cigarette lighter) could that not only result in a potential maximum of 30 amps through the 20 amp fuse but if there was a circuit issue with my dashcam could this result in my dashcam blowing as the fuse protecting it is 20 amps rather than 10 amps?

I'm sorry for all the questions, and if there is more to this than simply adding amps together to get the maximum load, where I would really appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Paul
 

SawMaster

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Are you sure your cam uses 10A? I've never heard of any cam using more than a few amps. That makes them quite easy to install since such a light load can be drawn from many circuits without trouble.

Phil
 
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Ghost_Rider_1970

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Are you sure your cam uses 10A? I've never heard of any cam using more than a few amps. That makes them quite easy to install since such a light load can be drawn from many circuits without
Ahhhh, thank you so much Phil - I think I see :)

I really do appreciate your reply and have a feeling my first mistake is assuming the 10a fuse supplied with my hardwire kit was the load for my dashcam. So if it is actually a very small load my understanding is that this will effectively fit within the capacity of many other circuits as you kindly posted. If so, my only other question would be if my fuse box - for example - is an empty slot (so is fused to 10 amps with the fuse supplied in the hardwire kit) how is the dashcam protected if the fuse is rated higher than the load drawn by the dashcam?
 

kamkar

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I use 5A fuses for my dashcams, and normally i tap into lower amperage fuses.
The fuse are there to protect your car from the camera

The piggy back fuse adapters have slots for 2 fuses, the lowest one are for the fuse you have pulled out to tap / piggyback on, the top fuse slot are for the additional circuit you add.
So say you tapped into a 10 A fuse, for something heavy, then putting on a 30 A fuse on top of that for your additional load would probably be a bad idea, but not for the 10 A fuse below but more the wirering that supply power to that socket and are probably only thick enough for the 10 A load and not 10 A + 30 A.
 

Nigel

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how is the dashcam protected if the fuse is rated higher than the load drawn by the dashcam?
The dashcam is protected by the hardwire kit which will contain an electronic current limit. It is very unlikely to use more than 1 amp at 12 volts.

The upper fuse tap fuse should be sized to match the wires going to the hardwire kit to protect against them being cut and short circuiting, we recommend using a 3 or 5 amp fuse for this since the wires are typically rated at 5A or above.

Another alternative I've come across is to use either a breakout fuse
A fuse tap will be neater and can be properly fused.

Also, the fuse taps I have connect rather than crimp so will standard fuse taps still fit?
Best to cut the end off the hardwire kit wires and crimp the fuse taps to the new ends, after removing some insulation.
 

Ralph2

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You don't ask/mention.. but be sure to pick a fuse that is powered as you want/need it. As in always on.. ACC or engine only, on new vehicles this can get tricky to determine as some circuits are timed to shut off.
 
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Ghost_Rider_1970

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Wow! I cannot thank you all enough for your time, help and advice.

There are some super suggestions and I'm much clearer on how to progress this. Where I actually need both an always on and ACC supply so thankfully have identified two suitable fuses. From the wonderful information outlined I think I'll try another type of fuse tap with this being a cleaner and dedicated option. Although if I'm still struggling I'll opt for a breakout fuse with an inline fuse .

Again, I am truly grateful for all your kind posts.

Paul :)
 

Dogfish

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Paul,

I've posted a reply to your query in the Ford forum.
 

Ralph2

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Wow! I cannot thank you all enough for your time, help and advice.

There are some super suggestions and I'm much clearer on how to progress this. Where I actually need both an always on and ACC supply so thankfully have identified two suitable fuses. From the wonderful information outlined I think I'll try another type of fuse tap with this being a cleaner and dedicated option. Although if I'm still struggling I'll opt for a breakout fuse with an inline fuse .

Again, I am truly grateful for all your kind posts.

Paul :)
I went for an unorthodox method. Using a piggy-back fuse would mean the cover on my fusebox would not fit. So:
I reduced the width of the cold side of a fuse with a file and then soldered a lead into that space. Then I filed all the excess solder to maintain the original thickness and width of the blade. I also had to notch the cover to allow the lead to exit but when all done looks good.. (in my opinion:unsure:). I did use in line fuses for both the ACC (radio fuse) and always on circuit (brake light fuse).
I did wreck 3~4 fuses before I was satisfied, my soldering skills are pretty crude.
 

mockbuy

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I always use fuse taps. Is important to check what side of the fuse is powered, because if it's installed wrong the original fuse will support the original current draw plus the dashcam draw (vitually nothing will happen with a dash cam, but it's not the correct way to do it.

I usually install a 2 amp fuse which is the ideal for a dashcam, but a 5 amp fuse will be fine too. A dashcam could theoretically draw a max of 2 amps at 5 volts which is a total of 10w of power, that at 12v is less than 1 amp.

It is usually a good idea using circuits fom equipment that isn't present in your car (if possible). For example, my car fuse box comes with fuses for a heated stering wheel or a sunroof that aren't installed in my car, and even two circuits labeled as "spare" that apparently have no use but are powered and they can be used for the dash cam.
 
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