sgtjayp

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I've been searching for a while and settled for the A118. Seems to get decent reviews and I like the discreteness.

Question: I don't want to tie up the cigarette lighter nor have visible cords to a USB adapter. I have minimal electrical skills, but I think I can manage hard-wiring to a current connection (or possibly a blank fuse that is on/off depending on the car being on/off). What are some hard-wiring hardware options? I noticed there was one on HERE, but it expensive. I'm assuming there are cheaper options.

Links and advice on installation would be greatly appreciated. (I don't have a sunroof, Gibson99)

Thanks in advice!
 

quaters

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I bought this one from eBay for < $3.00 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/331798745762Then buy an Add a Circuit on Amazon for around $5.00 (double check your fuse type (low profile, mini, micro, ato)
Connect red to the Add a Circuit, connect black to a ground (metal screw to your frame) and you are done for under $10.
 

klatch

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I've bought 4 of these off of aliexpress and then used a long usb cable (or a short one depending on where you are getting power), and I like that I have 2 ports and also can easily change it to a different type of cable if my next dash camera has microusb. As mentioned above, you can get a fuse tap like these after you have confirmed what size you need, or you can splice directly in to other wiring. In one vehicle (2008 Subaru Impreza) I used the fuse tap and in another (2011 Toyota Highlander) I spliced in to wiring by the overhead lighting console as well as splicing in to the cigarette lighter lines (for another one of the ac adapters for a different purpose - satellite radio).
 

russ331

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What are some hard-wiring hardware options?

Welcome to DCT. Cheap hardwiring kits are proven dashcam killers. Buy from a respected seller, this kit should be ok ...

 

quaters

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Welcome to DCT. Cheap hardwiring kits are proven dashcam killers. Buy from a respected seller, this kit should be ok ...


I would stay away from inline fuses, like the product linked, but that is my personal preference. I like the cleanness of an Add-a-Fuse (Circuit).

With the kit linked at Spytec you would be tapping power from another device with that inline fuse.

In regards to cheap hardwiring kits; if you are spending $45 on a cheap chinese camera, spending $20-$30 on a wiring kit makes no sense.
 

russ331

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... if you are spending $45 on a cheap chinese camera, spending $20-$30 on a wiring kit makes no sense.

A118 is around $75 from reputable US sellers. Spending $3 on a hardwire kit that may fry the camera makes no sense, when $10 buys a kit that works reliably from a trustworthy seller.
 

quaters

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A118 is around $75 from reputable US sellers. Spending $3 on a hardwire kit that may fry the camera makes no sense, when $10 buys a kit that works reliably from a trustworthy seller.

To each their own.

My experience is the US sellers just make a mark up on the same Chinese product. My point being, that I believe their $10 kit is the same as the $4 kit you get from HK or China, just longer shipping time. I'm not familiar with Spytec or if they warranty their cables or cover damage to your camera or if they do a special QA to make them worth the difference.

Just like you can buy a A118 from a reputable Chinese seller on eBay for under $60 shipped.

All that said I still would not use an inline fuse while tapping off another line. If you can get to the fuse box by all means use an add a fuse and properly terminate the conductors.
 

russ331

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... believe their $10 kit is the same as the $4 kit you get from HK or China,

I believe they're not the same. Maybe near identical externally, however, the $3 kit may be junk inside. @spytec has a good reputation, & doubtless ensures that the kit they sell is the real McCoy.

@Rayman.Chan of Shenzen MEG Technology must despair of people continuing to fry their dashcams with these $3 kits, when he's developed a quality kit that inevitably costs more to make / sell.

If you buy a dashcam from a Chinese seller you win on price, but only if it's fault-free. If it develops a fault you lose, as the cost of sending it back to China makes it uneconomic. Here's a timely reminder of why buying from Chinese sellers is often a false economy ...

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/do-not-buy-from-gearbest.19747/

Doubt that @moe fady would agree with you in this matter. Buy from a seller domiciled in your own Country, & enjoy the protection of your Consumer Laws & cheap / free returns. You pay more up front, but it may prove cheaper long-term. What price for peace of mind?
 

quaters

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I believe they're not the same. Maybe near identical externally, however, the $3 kit may be junk inside. @spytec has a good reputation, & doubtless ensures that the kit they sell is the real McCoy.
Looks like we are both just guessing if they are the same inside.

When I decided to the go the cheap/chinese route, I went all in cheap and chinese. Did the complete setup for under $50, camera, mount and hardwire kit. Had to wait 10 days for everything to arrive (G1W-CB).

I don't buy extended warranties on electronics either. So it's all a relative risk/reward.

All this discussion on the quality of the hardwire kit aside, OP should still not use an inline fuse if it can be avoided.
 
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sgtjayp

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Oh wow thanks for the comments everyone! I'll do a little more research and get back to everyone with what I decide and some install pics!!
 

Gibson99

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i fail to understand the aversion to an inline fuse. fuses are there to protect your wiring. and if the circuit you tap into ends up overloaded because of your hardwire kit/dashcam, then the fuse for THAT circuit should blow.

there's never any harm in adding additional fuses, as long as they aren't in parallel.
 
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